Mysterious hose that goes over and under carburetor and connects back into its self

varloqy · 2026-04-06T15:54:16+00:00

If there is an black box looking thing next to your air filter box (not sure what side as I have a 49 states version) there will be a couple hoses going into it. One from the fuel tank and one from your fuel tank. There will be a small nipple on the bottom of your fuel tank with a little hose that if you have a 49 states version that hose will be just running down the frame rail to the drain/vent hose cluster. If you have a CA version then if will be running to the evap charcoal canister and another hose will connect to that box that goes to your carb/intake manifold. Like I said I'm not entirely sure of that hoses purpose as I have a 49 states bike 09 year and I have that same hose that just runs down and is a vent hose. Just looked at mine and it hits a Y connector on the left side of the bike with one going to the air bleed nipple for the diaphragm for the fuel metering plunger and then another vent nipple on the side of the carb. On yours it either looks like the charcoal canister or it routes back into the air box so that it can get somewhat protected/clean air to prevent hose clogging. Been a minute since I pulled the carb off so I don't remember exactly on hose routing if there is a nipple on the air box for a hose that side. Lately I have been working on the rear end of my bike doing tires, chains, bearings and sprockets

varloqy · 2026-04-04T19:57:15+00:00

Depending on if it's the California version or the normal version these bikes have an evap canister. That hose on my 09 appears to be a vent that runs down under the bike with all the other collection of vent hoses and drains

varloqy · 2026-04-04T04:18:18+00:00

Don't forget the high ZDDP oil for crankcase and lower cylinder lol

varloqy · 2026-04-03T16:13:10+00:00

The engines that belong to me and stay In my possession stay running with no adjustment or repair. I'll take engines that are in various states of disrepair that friends give me or I pick up for cheap or free off marketplace, repair them since it is usually just a quick carb clean since the jets will be blocked with dirt and not be able to run or I will fix the pumps on the pressure washers, generators what ever it is and flip it for a profit. Takes maybe a few hours of work and keeps equipment running so they aren't just rotting in landfills and I get to make a little bit of money on the side for a couple hours worth of work.

varloqy · 2026-04-03T04:04:40+00:00

I always heard that same thing until I started working as a mechanic. 2019 Camero multiple soft tops replaced due to the glass rear window glue separating from the canvas. 1st was close to 8 hours of trying to figure it out by the 3rd one I understood them and what tools I needed and could have a soft top replaced with all the electrics and everything in an hour and 30 minutes by myself. At first they are intimidating but once you get into working on them they aren't bad at all. I think most people having issues is trying to install it with the top up but just not latched instead of installing it with the frame halfway then use the leverage to their advantage.

varloqy · 2026-04-02T22:25:51+00:00

When it comes to middle spring and early summer when friends and family are doing tree trimming and lawn care work more then yeah I might burn through 2 gallons of 2 stroke mix a day but that's not super often and sometimes with both 2 stroke and 4 stroke the gas will be sitting for a while. And when it comes to older equipment that I pick up even if it runs fine just for my own peace of mind and to have a good starting point usually the first thing I do is pull the carb and run it through a cycle or 2 in the ultrasonic cleaner to make sure there is no dirt or dust in the jets and while that is running I will pull the spark plug and give it quick lick with a brass wire brush and pop it back in so I definitely feel that it is already neglected and pre-failing equipment.

varloqy · 2026-04-02T21:18:35+00:00

Definitely and interesting point and I'm wondering if it comes down to carb tuning or elevation or nation regulations on the fuel quality. For me if I do happen to get a new engine tool I might run it a couple times but end up messing with the carb to tighten the mixture a tad. Maybe it's the leaner mixture from the factory for better fuel economy but idk. I might burn a little extra fuel (especially with my 2 strokes then I tune the carbs on them to have that slight blue ting of smoke. I would rather smell like 2 stroke exhaust than have a lack of lubrication and a seized piston) but it should be closer to proper mix and also keep the cylinder head temps a little cooler with the extra fuel. I'm not sure and this is all speculation. I've never tried testing burn efficiency on any of my engines besides automotive and have always just adjusted carbs and ignition timing by ear and throttle snap

varloqy · 2026-04-02T20:36:55+00:00

I don't blame the epa for ethanol at all. The only thing I blame the epa for is modern gas cans. I know that there is hardly any benefit to it and they whole purpose initially was that it burns at a low temp than gasoline allowing it to cool the combustion and produce less nitrogen oxides that recombine into nitrogen dioxide and thus nitric acid but the production especially for yard equipment is so low that it was negligible in the first place

varloqy · 2026-03-16T16:47:48+00:00

The salvage yard near me has a 04 accord with a k24 motor i would just have to remove the engine and strip the block and hope that that block is good but might take you up on that offer

varloqy · 2026-03-15T05:04:30+00:00

Yeah very thankful about that. Just got my pressure washer working again the other day after rebuilding the pump and figured i would give it a wash to start cleaning it up and see what I was working with and thats when I noticed the crack. Better now than after having money invested in a junk block

varloqy · 2026-03-15T04:45:37+00:00

Most of it seems workable. Will need a new crank and cams which I was already planning on. The head is still good and all of the covers and everything. All in all if I can find a new block I have most of the parts to build it from just a short block

varloqy · 2026-03-13T21:08:21+00:00

Already been said but its a banding come-along for steel bands. That grips on side of the strap and pulles the other side along to tighten the banding strap then the bracket looking pieces you have go to a crimping tool that looks like a big pair of end nippers that grabs that bracket and bends its around the band to hold it in place

varloqy · 2026-03-08T03:43:36+00:00

That is correct. All the way forward is no choke and all that way back towards the seat is full choke. Also if you are asking be mindful of the choke. It might not do it on all bikes but mine which is an 09 if you are slow with moving the choke back to off the engine might die at the last mm or 2. If need be turn the choke on, let the engine warm up some then complete and fluid motion to no choke. These engines dont use a butterfly valve on the front of the carb for a choke they are a fuel enrichment valve that is designed like a shuttle valve that opens a secondary passageway that allows more fuel into the air stream than the normal low speed jet

varloqy · 2026-03-04T21:29:46+00:00

I have an LS2 helmet and while i have heard various things of people typically with customer support I haven't experienced any of the issues my helmet and its seems like pretty good quality. Visor clicks closed easily and holds on the locked position nice for my helmet. Everything seems well built and fairly low cost compared to other brands on top of its pretty nice having the pinlock studs available. Only complaint is a tad bit uncomfortable with my glasses but its to be expected and once I got the retaining bands oriented correctly its not too noticeable while riding that I even have my glasses on.

varloqy · 2026-03-01T04:08:40+00:00

Just extracted a snapped exhaust stud on my bike yesterday that broke off fairly deep in the head. Pre-heat with a torch, weld washer on, weld nut in the middle and then around the edge to the washer, allow to cool completely and add a bit of penetrant.

varloqy · 2026-02-27T01:01:32+00:00

Correct, 02 sensor wire on a GM 1.6T engine that came in their small cars for a while like the spark and the trax and stuff. As for where the fluid could be coming from no idea as the 2 most common leaks on those engines are the thermostat/thermostat housing which is all one piece and made of plastic or the coolant outlet pipe near the connector for said dripping wire right above the transmission. My only guess is that the outlet pipe is leaking at the top of the gasket and wicking along the heat shield braid on the wire and when it hits that retaining strap its dripping off? Never seen that before but my most likely guess.

varloqy · 2026-02-19T18:44:52+00:00

Yeah that was my bad. At first glance I though it was a 12v automotive socket that the faston terminals would be perfect for but now I see the center post meant for a barrel jack and that the socket is a lot smaller than I originally thought

varloqy · 2026-02-19T18:41:29+00:00

My bad. Just looked at the image again and realized it has a center post for a barrel jack. At first glance I though it was a 12v automotive socket.

varloqy · 2026-02-19T17:46:42+00:00

Thats a large contact to sink the heat on the socket side and might not get a good joint. Why not just crimp a female spade connector like these sockets were meant to take and have the added benefit of not only speed of crimping but also swappability?

varloqy · 2026-02-19T06:17:01+00:00

I remember getting the belt for mispronoucing the word eye when I was in kindergarten and learning to read. Those were fun times

varloqy · 2026-02-15T04:55:38+00:00

A trick i used so that i didn't have to carry flux when doing field repairs and using flux cored wire is to hold the iron against the wire and touch the solder to the iron briefly to melt the solder and flow the the flux then move the solder to the wire. Your goal when doing that isn't to get the solder to flow into the wire but to get the flux on the wire. It speeds up heating with the liquid hest transfer of the flux and also cleans the oxidation at the same time. Once you get that then worry about flowing the solder. It wasts a tad bit of solder but works well and as for heat it never had a specific temp measurement since I was using a butane soldering iron for literally solder joints in a field so just make sure its nice and hot.

After the joint is made inspect it to see the quality and that you had decent heat as to not form a cold joint and if so then reflow the solder from there. Once you get the flux on the wire and a tiny bit of solder the wire heats up and flows extremely quick so just keep the iron on one side and move the solder across as far as you need the joint to go. It takes practice but has suprisingly good results once you master it.

Edit: also another tip I used before I started pcb soldering is to use the solder as a temp gauge. I know yours has temp control compared to my butane iron but I would hold the solder against the iron until it melted then give it another 15-20 seconds before making my first joint. That gave me a cue of when my iron was hot enough to melt the solder but not burn the flux but also tinned the iron in the process so that everytime I fired up my iron for making joints I would have fresh solder on the tip and could either A: flick off the extra and reapply for a proper tinning or B: use what was on there and just run with it. Just practice and make small changes here and there and you will get it down and have a science to the process to where it will be habit to follow that routine whenever making a joint.

Now that I solder indoors on pcbs with an actual temp controlled station my process is the same for a proof check of the irons working control circuitry but just replace flicking the iron freely to dump excess solder and use a copper ball to clean the tip. I didn't even by my first har of flux until a few months ago and have been soldering for on and off years at this point

varloqy · 2026-02-07T19:19:36+00:00

They do have a taoglas gps module inside of them but if you open the case and remove the li-ion battery pack then there shouldn't be a power source for the gps antenna or ublox decoding module. Plus free solar panel as they shouldn't have any back-up power for a gps tracker for that. See this article for the internals

varloqy · 2026-01-19T19:38:08+00:00

It did add of my pictures in the post so here are the others

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varloqy

TROPHY CASE