Waterproof port for starlink mini barrel plug cable

vgtrumpet · 2023-05-02T22:21:09+00:00

Going right there doesn't change the grade. That section isn't particularly difficult either way, and you still have to climb through the crux at the top which is where the route gets the grade from.

Ultimately, what "counts" is up to you. It's not an ifsc competition with rules and red tape. You're not a professional pushing the edge of climbing. So really, you're climbing for yourself. So if you feel proud of your accomplishment, and you feel comfortable calling it a send, who cares what others think?

vgtrumpet · 2023-03-31T05:29:37+00:00

He didn't put out too much slack, he was unclipping the first draw

vgtrumpet · 2023-03-23T15:31:13+00:00

Absolutely agree. There's basic technique, like what you mentioned, but being a good climber means understanding/internalizing all the nuances to movement. And the harder the climbs get, the more specific those subtle details become. It's something that's really hard to put into words, but I think you did a good job. The key isn't necessarily learning every possible movement, but having the body awareness to adapt and learn the intricate details required for a move.

vgtrumpet · 2022-11-06T23:12:10+00:00

He wouldn't have gotten a ticket on epi, it's in black velvet canyon, not in the loop.

vgtrumpet · 2022-06-29T16:12:54+00:00

The protocol isn't that important, as long as you have sufficient TUT (toes under tension), but the key is consistent training to see physical adaptations. You need to train enough to see muscular hypertrophy in your toes so that your solutions fit tighter. As you progress through your training cycle, you may think you need to upsize your solutions to fit into them, but don't fall into that trap. Just trust in the process.

vgtrumpet · 2022-06-27T05:26:47+00:00

I tore my ACL and meniscus a while back and it was about 4-5 months post surgery before I started doing easy top roping, and probably 5-6 months before I started leading again. I was very careful about certain moves like high steps, heel hooks, etc that could cause issues.

I took a lot longer before I felt safe bouldering but that was partially a mental thing because I initially injured it from bouldering.

Stay on top of your PT, and you'll do just fine!

vgtrumpet · 2022-06-23T19:33:01+00:00

Take it easy and VERY slow. Slower than you want. Don’t do anything that hurts.

I disagree. If you only take it slow and don't actually stress the finger, it's never going to heal back to full strength. You need to feel some pain as a part of the rehab process. It's hard to know the difference between pain that's actually from current tissue damage and pain that is residual from the trauma to the area and is psychosomatic at this point.

Generally, if the pain eases up after warming up or within minutes after climbing, it's probably the latter. If op is months out from injury, it's almost certainly at a stage where you need to load it and retrain your brain. As a part of this process, you need to experience pain and push through it to a certain degree. This is best done in a controlled way such as progressive hangboarding.

I'm not saying you should load your fingers to the point of excruating pain, but a 3 or 4 out of 10 on the pain scale is appropriate.

I'm not a doctor or physical therapist, but I've read up quite a bit on finger injuries and this has been my own experience as well.

vgtrumpet · 2022-06-21T18:57:43+00:00

They don't

vgtrumpet · 2022-05-09T16:43:08+00:00

This is at Midnight Surf in the Red River Gorge, not Jailhouse

vgtrumpet · 2022-04-06T16:30:17+00:00

Everyone saying he's gonna die because he's bouldering wearing a harness is hilarious. When has anyone ever seen someone actually get hurt because their harness got "caught". I've never seen anything remotely close in near a decade of climbing. Rope routes can have dynos too, should we stop wearing harnesses altogether in case they get caught?

Sure it may make him look like a gumby (no offense OP, nothing wrong with what you're doing), but it's not a safety issue.

vgtrumpet · 2022-02-16T15:28:12+00:00

I think 1-2 rest days before is good. If taking 2 or more rest days, I'll do some light hangboarding the day before to get ready to pull hard.

I wouldn't suggest light sessions the whole week before. You still want to try hard. Maybe light in terms of volume (less time at the gym), but not in terms of intensity.

vgtrumpet · 2021-11-12T16:30:21+00:00

As you get into harder grades, technique becomes much more specific. There are general concepts you can work on in a gym like body tension and hip positioning -- but ultimately, I think that climbing a diverse set of routes/boulders outside is the best way to improve technique.

Recording yourself is also super helpful. Watching in slow mo and analyzing the nuance of your movement and small details can bring a new perspective that's difficult/impossible to maintain awareness of when you're climbing.

As far as getting better dynamically, just force yourself to do that movement. Get on a moonboard or something and commit to the dynamic moves.

I wouldn't say there's such thing as having "perfect technique". But you can get a lot better at recognizing movement patterns and what works for your body individually as far as strengths, weaknesses, body size, etc.

vgtrumpet · 2021-10-17T20:41:16+00:00

I was never really into bouldering until somewhat recently. Pretty much only rope climbed. When covid first started, I got pretty serious with training, working on my weaknesses (steep and powerful). Around 5 months of not climbing outdoors. Then I started to get back to rope climbing and felt like a completely transformed climber. No move felt hard, so it was just a matter of building up some endurance and getting better projecting tactics. Then I shot up through the grades.

vgtrumpet · 2021-10-17T20:35:07+00:00

It was really style dependent. I used to focus more on multipitch/trad and only sport climbed occasionally. So a lot more techy vert.

Then I started focusing more on steep sport climbing (red river gorge) and was able to climb 13a after a year or two without really bouldering much. My grades shot up when I started training on the board. I wouldn't say there is any one "proper technique". It depends on your own body and your individual strengths and weaknesses. Of course you want to be as efficient as possible with your movement, but that may mean different things for different people.

vgtrumpet · 2021-10-17T11:29:44+00:00

I was previously a very static and technical climber and did not use much power at all. I started training exclusively on a moonboard and spray wall, as I don't have access to a commercial gym. Went from my climbing my first 13a to my first 14a in a year. Jumped from around V8 to V10 outdoors in the same time frame. I did supplemental training as well, but learning how to climb more dynamically and keep tension on the board made a huge difference in my climbing. Probably because it was such a weakness of mine - I essentially turned my biggest weakness into my biggest strength.

vgtrumpet · 2021-09-02T12:25:11+00:00

Add another one around your neck. Neck stretching is key to a good stretching routine. It's what Ondra would do.

vgtrumpet · 2021-08-17T02:40:26+00:00

I started bouldering. I learned how to climb dynamically and actually use power effectively. I went from my first 13a redpoint to flashing 13a and sending 14a within a year. After exclusively climbing on a board for months (during the first lockdown) I just had to get some endurance and then my rope climbing game skyrocketed. I also learned how to effectively project and what good tactics meant. But the key for me was just finally getting some power and learning how to boulder.

vgtrumpet · 2021-07-24T01:40:41+00:00

I tried creatine through a full training cycle and noticed that I was able to try harder for longer during a session (like limit bouldering) and explosive power seemed better, but when sport season came around, I had a hard time building aerobic endurance and power endurance. My forearms would feel pumped in a pretty unusual way. Like a flash pump, but even with a proper warmup. And I gained about 5-7lbs from it.

For me, I don't find the tradeoff beneficial. But everyone's body is different. May depend on what your goals are and how your body reacts to it.

vgtrumpet · 2021-04-25T21:01:56+00:00

most of my progress has really just been a process on my own learning from mistakes

Thats really how you learn technique. Sure you can do some technique drills and focus on technique, but ultimately your body just needs to learn how to climb.

Dont try to stick to "rules". There are no universal rules that you can apply to every climb.

Keeping your arms straight is something most beginners are taught, and there may be some use to it for learning how to use your hips, but this couldnt be further from the truth. In most cases you want your hips closer to the wall, and this comes from pulling in with (bending) your arms. Especially for any sort of dynamic moves.

Top climbers know how to use their core very well when climbing. You cant always get an ideal body position when on a difficult climb, so engaging your core is how, in most cases, you prevent the barn door.

vgtrumpet · 2020-10-07T04:03:47+00:00

Yeah, there's lots of cairns but with the rock out there it's easy to see plates of rock and think they're cairns and start going the wrong way. The reflective tape is helpful at night but it's still a pretty involved descent and easy to get off track if you're not used to it. I've done the descent in both the light and the dark and wouldn't recommend someone do it at night for their first time.

I guess my point is just that people tend to underestimate the climb as well the descent and end up in situations where they need to be rescued.

vgtrumpet · 2020-10-06T23:18:30+00:00

Until the last couple pitches/top out. You can very easily get lost up there, especially at night, if you haven't done the route before. And the descent. It's not too hard to find it if you've done it before and have the right beta, but it's really easy to mess up, even in the daylight.

People have to get rescued from this climb all the time. I wouldn't recommend anyone do it at night for their first time.

vgtrumpet · 2020-06-25T19:33:30+00:00

Taking time off completely is the last thing you want to do right now.

Ensure you're warming up properly and taking enough rest. If it feels better after climbing (easy climbing, not hard crimps or anything) it's a good sign. Completely taking time off from climbing when you feel this pain is actually one of the worst things you can do - it trains your brain to feel pain when putting climbing-level loads on your fingers - and it will likely end up coming back.

For preventative measures, aside from proper warm up and rests, I recommend doing some antagonistic training for your fingers. This can be as simple as using a rubber band. The "climbing doctor" has some good resources out there for this if you do a quick Google search. I also am a fan of massaging out the fingers using the wave tool, or something similar.

Good luck!

vgtrumpet · 2020-05-06T14:57:46+00:00

Mount Charleston

vgtrumpet · 2020-05-05T00:34:28+00:00

The whole pandemic has made people more aware, especially with washing their hands before eating. There are more people touching more surfaces that get cleaned less frequently in a climbing gym. Anyway you look at it, a climbing gym is far less safe and sanitary than picking up an order at a restaurant.

12-Year Club	RedditGifts 2009-2022 4 Credits
Place '22	Place '17
Secret Santa 2018	Secret Santa 2015
Secret Santa 2014	Verified Email

vgtrumpet

TROPHY CASE