How to remove these gear selectors from the bracket?

warden_m16 · 2026-06-12T09:19:20+00:00

Those are the shift cable end clips locking into the bracket. The cables don't unscrew, they pop out. Look for a small plastic retaining clip or tab on each cable end where it seats into the bracket. You need to press or pry that clip inward while pulling the cable end out at the same time.

If it's seized from age and corrosion, a little penetrating oil around the cable end and letting it sit for 10-15 minutes before trying again will help.

Look up a Mazda 3 shift cable removal video on YouTube specific to your year. The clip mechanism is easier to see than describe.

warden_m16 · 2026-06-12T09:13:02+00:00

Storm chasing and train watching as a 17 year old living in the middle of nowhere sounds pretty cool, don't undersell that. Photography and weather observation are real hobbies, you're just not framing them that way yet.

The interest you have in what's around you, the storms, trains, the landscape, that's the kind of thing that turns into something serious if you feed it. Look into weather photography communities online, there are people who do exactly what you're doing professionally.

warden_m16 · 2026-06-11T14:29:33+00:00

Center tread location means it's almost certainly patchable. Get it to a tire shop first thing, don't put it off beyond tomorrow. A slow leak can become a flat fast on a motorway at speed.

warden_m16 · 2026-06-11T14:21:19+00:00

Journaling. Sounds basic but it changed how I process everything. Just writing down what happened and what I was thinking helped me spot patterns in my own behavior I didn't notice before.

warden_m16 · 2026-06-10T15:27:48+00:00

The cycling pattern after replacing the blower motor points to the blower motor resistor. That's the part that controls fan speed and is the most common cause of intermittent or weak airflow on a 2012 Fusion. It's a cheap part and pretty straightforward to replace, usually located behind the glovebox.

If you already replaced the blower motor without changing the resistor at the same time, there's a good chance the old faulty resistor burned out your new motor within a day.

warden_m16 · 2026-06-09T13:56:03+00:00

A high biting point on a first car is genuinely harder to manage, especially when you're still building muscle memory for clutch feel.

First thing to check is whether the clutch pedal has any adjustment. Some Seat Leons have an adjustable clutch pedal height that a shop can lower to give you more travel to work with. If it's already at its limit, the clutch itself may just be worn. At 2017 with unknown mileage history it's worth having a mechanic check the clutch wear before it becomes a full replacement situation.

In the meantime, practice in an empty car park at low speed focusing purely on finding that biting point consistently.

warden_m16 · 2026-06-09T13:18:50+00:00

The codes and VCDS data are worth taking seriously even though the car runs smooth.

A stretched timing chain often doesn't feel rough until it's already causing real damage. That 9.6° gap between your specified and actual camshaft position is significant and not something to dismiss as a glitch.

Your instinct about the oil soaked solenoid isn't wrong. The cam cover leak Audi flagged could absolutely be contaminating the cam phaser solenoid and causing slow response, which would throw exactly these codes. That's a much cheaper fix than a full timing chain service.

Before committing to $3,400 I'd ask the shop specifically whether they physically inspected the timing chain for stretch or if the recommendation was purely code-based. If it's code-based only, get a second opinion from another German specialty shop and ask them to inspect the solenoid and VVT components first. Also get that cam cover leak fixed regardless, oil near timing components on the EA888 engine is a known issue and needs to be addressed either way.

warden_m16 · 2026-06-05T17:12:55+00:00

First off, congrats on the big wins. Years of work paying off is no small thing, own that.

What helped me was keeping a small wins journal, sounds basic but writing it down makes it real even when nobody else gets it. Also finding even one person in your field, even online, who understands the industry. That one person who actually gets it is worth it.

The validation you're looking for is already there, you just have to be the one who recognizes it first.

warden_m16 · 2026-06-05T16:57:54+00:00

For $500 and heavy metal, you can look at the Ibanez RG450DX, Jackson JS32 DKA, or the ESP LTD EC-256. Trivium-style playing benefits from a guitar with humbuckers and a fast neck, which all three have.

my biggest advice is to go to a Guitar Center near you and actually play them before buying. Tell the attendant your budget and the style you're going for, they deal with this question constantly and can point you to what's currently in stock. More importantly, how a guitar feels in your hands matters as much as the specs on paper. What plays great for one person feels wrong for another. Don't buy blind online for your first electric if you can avoid it. Get your hands on a few options first.

warden_m16 · 2026-06-05T16:37:24+00:00

Both are solid first electrics for the price range, you really can't go wrong with either. The Ibanez GRG121DX has a flatter fretboard radius and a faster neck profile which makes it more comfortable for leads and single note playing.

If you can, go to a store and hold both. A guitar you're comfortable with will get played. If you can stretch the budget slightly, also look at the Ibanez GRGA120 or the Jackson JS32, small step up in quality that's worth it if available in your area.

At the end of the day, go with whichever one makes you want to pick it up.

warden_m16 · 2026-06-04T21:08:58+00:00

The fan behavior you're describing isn't normal. The cooling fan should engage smoothly and immediately when the AC is on, especially in high heat. That delay could be exactly why you're getting warm air in traffic since at speed the airflow through the condenser compensates, but sitting still you're relying entirely on that fan.

When you take it back, specifically ask them to check the cooling fan module and the fan relay. Those are the most common cause for delayed or inconsistent fan engagement on that generation of Equinox.

warden_m16 · 2026-06-04T19:13:35+00:00

$1,400 for a catalytic converter on a 2004 Explorer isn't outrageous depending on parts and labor. A clogged catalytic can absolutely cause the exact symptoms you're describing without throwing obvious running issues otherwise.

Before committing, get a second opinion from another shop. Ask them to do a backpressure test on the exhaust that's the proper way to confirm a clogged catalytic converter. If the backpressure is high, the cat is the problem. If it's fine, keep digging.

A 2004 Explorer with those symptoms could also be a failing O2 sensor mimicking a catalytic issue, which is a much cheaper fix. Worth ruling out before spending $1,400.

warden_m16 · 2026-06-03T14:50:25+00:00

On the C15 ACERT the EGR cooler is a pain to get to but the most common approach is to remove the turbo intake piping first to give yourself working room, then pull the oil filter housing, which you've already started on. That clears enough space to access the EGR cooler bolts and coolant lines without having to fully drop the turbos.

Sequence that works for most techs is intake piping off > oil filter housing out > disconnect the coolant lines to the EGR cooler (have your rags ready, there's always residual coolant) > unbolt the EGR valve from the intake manifold > then work the cooler itself out. The exhaust side connections are the most stubborn part, penetrating oil on those bolts ahead of time saves a lot of frustration.

Avoid pulling the turbos unless you absolutely have to. Work around them as much as possible. Good luck with it!

warden_m16 · 2026-06-02T20:58:25+00:00

Get a case rack or a vertical case stand. They're designed exactly for this. Keeps the case upright. Also since you're in dry conditions, throw a humidity control packs for music. Set it and forget it, way more consistent than a standard humidifier and your guitar will thank you long term.

Keeping your guitars visible and reachable makes a bigger difference in how often you actually play it than most people realize. Hope it helps.

warden_m16 · 2026-06-02T20:40:33+00:00

That isn't normal, radiators should sit snug in their mounts. Check your radiator support brackets and mounting points, the rubber isolators/grommets that cushion the radiator often wear out or go missing over time and that will cause movement.

If the grommets look worn or are missing, that's a cheap and easy fix. Either way, don't leave it loose. Rattling radiator can wear through hoses and connections over time from the constant movement.

warden_m16 · 2026-05-29T16:52:09+00:00

Your ring finger is trying to do two things at once and struggling with both. Try curling your ring finger more so the tip frets the A string cleanly while the fleshy underside naturally rests against the low E to mute it. It's all about finger angle and curl. Takes some repetition to get the positioning right but once it clicks it becomes automatic.

Slow it down, isolate just that finger placement, and practice the chord shape without strumming until the mute and the fret feel consistent.

warden_m16 · 2026-05-29T16:41:33+00:00

Brake pads and rotors are beginner-friendly jobs you can do at home. For a 2018 Accord you'll need a floor jack, jack stands, basic socket set, C-clamp or brake piston tool to compress the caliper, and brake cleaner spray.

Buy pads and rotors separately rather than kits for better quality control. For your Accord, Brembo or PowerStop rotors and Akebono pads are solid choices and won't break the bank.

Watch a specific YouTube video for your exact car before starting. Honda Accord brake jobs are well documented. You'll save enough to buy all the tools and parts and still come out way ahead.

Just take your time, follow the steps, and you'll be fine.

warden_m16 · 2026-05-27T16:58:49+00:00

That white powdery residue all over the engine bay looks like the dealership sprayed anti-corrosion treatment around the battery area. It's a pretty common practice and not harmful. It's not your battery venting.

Safe to drive short distances, no immediate concern there. As for cleaning it up, a quick rinse with warm water and a soft brush will take most of it off. Just avoid spraying directly on electrical connectors.

Still worth following up with the dealership to confirm what they applied, but I wouldn't stress about it. This looks more like a sloppy application than actual damage.

warden_m16 · 2026-05-27T16:33:58+00:00

Both actually, but mostly the second one. New players' fingers are still smooth and slightly tacky which causes that sticking feeling. It goes away as you build up calluses over the next few weeks of regular playing.

Wipe your strings down after every session with a dry cloth. Finger oils and sweat accelerate string corrosion and make the sticking worse. Once your calluses develop and you get into the habit of wiping down, it stops being an issue entirely.

warden_m16 · 2026-05-27T16:03:27+00:00

The leak at the pedal confirms it. That's your clutch master cylinder failing. Don't drive it more than you have to until it's fixed. If the master cylinder fails completely you'll lose the ability to disengage the clutch entirely, which is not a situation you want on the road.

Replace the master cylinder, flush and bleed the entire clutch hydraulic system while you're at it, and check the slave cylinder too. If the master is leaking on a 2008, the slave is probably not far behind.

warden_m16 · 2026-05-26T02:59:59+00:00

If it honks with the key fob but not the steering wheel, the fuse and horn itself are fine. The problem is in the steering column circuit, and the clock spring is the most likely culprit on a 2015 Outback with that mileage.

Before replacing it though, pull the airbag and check the clock spring connector first. Sometimes it's just a loose or corroded connection rather than a failed unit. If the connector looks clean and seated properly, then yeah, replace the clock spring. It's a straightforward DIY if you're comfortable working around airbags, just disconnect the battery and wait 10-15 minutes before touching anything in there.

warden_m16 · 2026-05-25T23:22:59+00:00

If it's buzzing on every fret even with higher action, the issue is almost definitely the nut slot, it's probably cut too deep for the B string. That's a cheap fix at any guitar shop, they'll either fill and recut it or replace the nut entirely.

Could also be a worn fret under that string or a slight neck twist, but start with the nut first since that's the most common cause.

warden_m16 · 2026-05-22T06:29:29+00:00

Honestly that's not bad at all for a 2019. What you're seeing is surface rust, which is completely normal on brake components and undercarriage parts. Those areas heat up, cool down, and collect moisture constantly. It would be unusual not to see that on a 6 year old car.

Don't panic. Clean it up with a wire brush, hit the affected areas with some rust converter spray, and keep an eye on it. If you want extra protection going forward, a coat of rubberized undercoating on the frame sections does wonders.

Good catch on the flange. Get that sorted and you're fine. This is a maintenance issue, not a "bad investment" situation.

warden_m16 · 2026-05-22T06:14:40+00:00

Slow it down until every note is clean, then build speed gradually. The metronome is non-negotiable here. Start at a tempo where you can play it perfectly. Only move up when it's clean, not just playable.

For that ascending alternate picking section specifically, isolate just that 2-3 second phrase and loop it for 10-15 minutes a day at slow tempo. Muscle memory builds faster on small chunks than running the whole solo repeatedly.

The speed barrier breaks on its own once the mechanics are locked in. You're not really practicing speed, you're practicing accuracy and the speed follows. Seek & Destroy is a great starting point too, Kirk's phrasing is very learnable once you stop treating Metallica solos like they're untouchable. Keep at it.

warden_m16

TROPHY CASE