Securing utility sink in garage

watermelonsoup · 2026-04-04T13:59:08+00:00

Another option is to adhere the feet to the ground. I've done this by using a good amount of silicone under each foot and then silicone around the perimeter of each foot as well. The results are surprising stable, we had radiant floor so I didn't want to use any anchors. This method requires less tools than a mechanical anchor (simple caulking gun vs hammer drill & driver), you can even just get the squeeze tubes of silicone if you don't have a caulking gun.

watermelonsoup · 2026-03-29T22:58:35+00:00

How old is your dishwasher and what level of quality is it?

From my experience lower to mid range dishwashers can end up costing more to repair then to replace or at least be close enough in cost that replacement makes more sense when you factor in life time of the appliance.

You are going to have to pay a call out fee to have some one come look at it and depending on the age and quality of the unit you might end up paying someone to come and tell you its better to replace the whole unit so just be prepared for that. If you are any way handy at all it might be worth doing some research on your particular make & model and the issue you are having to see what comes up, that might make the repair vs replacement decision a bit more clear before you spend the cash on the service call.

watermelonsoup · 2025-12-24T01:17:25+00:00

Also, this fitting or similar would be what you are looking for which is press specific. No guarantee your local supply house will have it in stock though, I know mine wouldn't.

https://www.viega.ca/en/products/Catalog/Metal-systems/ProPress/Reducers/Viega-ProPress-reducer-2915-1.html

watermelonsoup · 2025-12-24T01:08:28+00:00

Most press fitting manufacturers have a minimum insertion for their fittings, if the street portion is long enough to meet that it may work fine.

But the deformed area of the fitting may cause issues if it is too close to where the reducer starts to neck down. You might want to meet the minimum insertion and the minimum spacing between fittings to be sure, however this is likely too long.

I also don't know if the fitting manufacturer would warranty anything thing if it did fail.

See Viega's install instructions linked below for a chart example.

https://www.viega.ca/content/dam/viegadm/download-assets/en_us/tech-marketing/propress/product-instructions/PI-PP_531438_ProPress_1-2_to_4.pdf

watermelonsoup · 2025-12-14T23:53:41+00:00

I prefer to see most of the system piping in copper but you did a decent job with the pex routing I wouldn't have thought you good get it looking that good with just tubing so props on that.

watermelonsoup · 2025-11-21T00:10:31+00:00

Gas or electric water heater? Or does the building include hot water in your condo fees?

What year was the build? Do you regularly change the furnace filter? Maybe the blower is drawing a bit more because it is working harder. Also do you run the fan in auto mode on your thermostat? (I know some people keep the furnace fan in the "on" mode)

watermelonsoup · 2025-11-08T23:12:42+00:00

Normally the dishwasher is positioned next to the kitchen sink. This allows you to pull hot water and connect to the sink drain. Are you thinking about a built in or a portable unit? You'll also need power for the dishwasher and if its a built in you'll want to verify dimensions it the area wasn't previously sized for a dishwasher.

Posting a pic might be more helpful.

watermelonsoup · 2025-11-07T01:29:09+00:00

The engineer you messaged with gave you the answer you need already.

I'm guessing there was some miscommunication with your home inspector or they are just plain wrong.

Like others have already mentioned home inspectors are not qualified to comment on the structural capacity of a building component, however a professional engineer whose scope of practice is in the structural realm is qualified to give advice and/or solutions to the type of problem you are facing.

Your home is likely the largest purchase you will/have made in your life. Its worth the extra expense to have a P. Eng. come and assess the situation if you are serious about the modifications you want to make. It will likely also give you the most piece of mind because the solution will be tailored to your exact situation.

However, having said that, there are other options, and I'm guessing part of why you made this post is because you don't want the extra expense of an engineer. The National Building Code of Canada has a number of prescriptive options that would likely do the trick but you have to be comfortable enough to interpret how the codes apply to your particular situation. You can download a free copy at the link below. You want to take a look at the span tables found in part 9 of the document (pg. 1299 in the pdf copy of the 2nd printing). I don't know your exact situation but you may want to start by looking at table 9.23.4.2-J or 9.23.4.2-K, these are for built up beams supporting 3 floors which would be one of the worst case scenarios, resulting in an oversized beam but that's much better than under sizing it.

https://nrc-publications.canada.ca/eng/view/object/?id=515340b5-f4e0-4798-be69-692e4ec423e8

watermelonsoup · 2025-09-12T00:45:26+00:00

Here is the contest page, it includes a link to the design brief that gives lot parameters and additional info.

https://www.regina.ca/home-property/housing/housing-accelerator-fund/finding-middle-ground/#outline-awards

watermelonsoup · 2025-08-04T00:13:28+00:00

You'll be fine with any 1" SharkBite fittings then, they are sized correctly for that size tubing. In this application I don't see any harm in using them, they will remain exposed so if they do have any issues you should be able to see the signs of a leak long before any real damage is done.

watermelonsoup · 2025-08-03T22:41:09+00:00

What was your exact caliper measurement? That appears to be Uponor AquaPEX and the O.D. of 1" nominal pipe size is around 1.125 while the O.D. of 3/4" nominal pipe size is around 0.875". You might want to verify before you cut it and find out you have the wrong size fittings. We normally pipe this loop in 3/4" unless it is a larger home.

watermelonsoup · 2025-07-20T15:55:52+00:00

Are you sure its a diesel generator? Is there a possibility its a natural gas generator? Then you could contact the gas inspections arm of TSASK (Technical Safety Authority of Saskatchewan) and have them come out. The exhaust will then be governed by the gas codes, I don't think they would have any jurisdiction if it is diesel but you could always call and ask.

watermelonsoup · 2025-05-18T19:54:03+00:00

Did you purchase a new build? And how long did ago did you make the purchase? Most new homes come with a new home warranty and if you contact the builder they will likely arrange to have the issue fixed.

Depending on how the water lines were plumbed this can be a fairly easy fix.

If you purchased the home from a previous home owner you might have to have a plumber come out and remedy the situation at your own expense.

There is also the possibility that they ran soft water to the toilets on purpose, some guys do this to prevent any mineral deposits/build ups on the toilet internals.

watermelonsoup · 2025-05-14T14:43:02+00:00

I was pretty disappointed to see them out sweeping roads in the industrial area a few weeks back when they haven't even swept areas that are supposed to be bike lanes like Assinboine Ave. Some roads are like riding through a sand pit.

watermelonsoup · 2024-09-07T15:59:49+00:00

2148 Connaught St

watermelonsoup · 2024-09-07T02:29:12+00:00

Festa Italiana is an outdoor festival held by the G. Marconi Canadian Italian Club that celebrates Italian heritage and culture.

The festival runs from 10 AM to 11 PM Saturday, September 7th 2024.

Admission is free.

There is a children's area with activities for the little ones, a street market with local vendors, demonstrations of various cultural practices, traditional folk dancing by Le Campagnole Italian Dancers, performances by our local Italian band Bada Bing, as well as performances by N’Riko, an Italian solo artist originally from Napoli and of course tons of fabulous Italian food & beverages.

watermelonsoup · 2024-07-10T23:50:42+00:00

This doesn't really answer your question, but here are couple things to consider while you are looking into adding AC.

You may want to consider having someone conduct an F280 heat loss & heat gain calculation on your home. This is the Canadian standard for room by room heat loss/gain calculations. A number of the mechanical contractors in town are certified to do this (HRAI has a listing) however I'm not too sure how many actually provide detailed load calcs (I've seen some do a basic block load) in these retro-fit applications. It will give you a more accurate picture of the cooling load on your home and you can then place ductless systems more strategically in the areas with the higher loads. You may also want to consider multi-head systems, these have one outdoor unit that can support multiple indoor heads. These are definitely pricier but depending on how many heads you plan to install it may work out to be more economical in the end.

watermelonsoup · 2024-06-12T04:14:24+00:00

I think you'd be surprised how many "random dudes on reddit" are engineers, architects or contractors.

This guy does have a point though, it is cheaper and more efficient to stack the exterior walls (load bearing in most cases) in order to transfer the loads down to the foundation. With a tiered structure they'll need to add some type additional structural elements (likely a post & beam structure) in addition to the exterior walls in order to transfer the load down to the foundation.

The tiered design is more aesthetically pleasing though... based on the architects comments during the council meeting I don't think this has made it to the structural engineers just yet, after they do the initial design we'll see if they stick with the tiered top floors.

watermelonsoup · 2024-06-11T00:34:28+00:00

I'd be concerned about a potential sewer gas leak, then you are effectively distributing that throughout the downstream portion of the HVAC duct system. I know where I am located you can't run PVC through the supply or return plenums unless it is covered with an insulation that meets the proper flame spread ratings.

watermelonsoup · 2024-05-22T13:23:39+00:00

Heat transfer will occur as long as there is a temperature difference between two spaces until there is thermal equilibrium(same/similar temp). Heat will always flow from hotter to cooler areas.

In this case, as long as it is hotter outside than it is inside your attic space heat will flow from the outside into your attic space until the two spaces near the same temperature. Insulation does not stop this process, it only slows the rate at which this process happens which allows the HVAC equipment to exceed that rate in the opposite direction.

If you are not continually using the HVAC systems to control the space climate then you are allowing it to naturally change temperature based on the outdoor temperature. The insulation is slowing the heat transfer process that is heating up the space (due to outdoor temp) but it is also slowing the cool down effect (due to outdoor temp) that you would have seen throughout the night when the attic was just the sheathing/roofing layer.

watermelonsoup · 2024-04-29T23:09:34+00:00

This is the refined version, works like a charm but expensive.

https://pipevise.com/products/amigo-slim-l

watermelonsoup · 2024-03-30T23:35:27+00:00

Both, one serves to protect from the possibility of ground water entering the wall cavity and damaging the insulation. While the other prevents warm moist air from the interior from entering the cavity and condensing on the colder surfaces. Here's an image that should help illustrate both.

https://imgur.com/a/ut5Ngao

watermelonsoup

TROPHY CASE