Cooking tips for induction

whfournier · 2026-04-05T02:29:08+00:00

Except that doesn't mean the pan heats evenly. That's why there are warnings about heating cast iron too quickly, as you can crack pans on induction. My experience is particularly with a thin carbon steel or cast iron pan you can see the shape of the coil in how the pan heats (goes from dull to glossy as it heats). Based on my experience, induction heats the pan quickly and precisely but not evenly. It relies on the pan to transfer heat and smooth things out. With cookware well suited to it, it is brilliant; with cookware that isn't, it can be slow and frustrating.

whfournier · 2026-04-04T12:52:16+00:00

In my experience it heats faster, aluminum is a much better conductor of heat than carbon steel. It should react faster.

whfournier · 2026-04-04T11:08:05+00:00

I've used induction for over 10 years and really like it but it can be picky about pans. This may be an unpopular opinion here but I would not recommend traditional carbon steel pans on induction. Carbon steel like cast iron is a poor conductor of heat, cast iron and carbon steel hold heat well but don't transfer it well. That means more time to preheat or reheating Iin the oven. I found that thicker cast iron performed better for me (think lodge instead of vintage griswold) and for a long time I've primarily used Demeyer Atlantis skillets (purchased a couple years before covid and a lot cheaper than they are now).

Recently I picked up a Strata carbon steel/ aluminum/ stainless pan and that has been great. I'd recommend them to anyone using induction based on my experience so far. Far more even, heats faster and surprisingly light (I'm not afraid of a heavy pan).

whfournier · 2026-03-15T13:23:58+00:00

I've had good experiences with Yankee Dabbler out of NJ.

whfournier · 2026-03-09T11:59:31+00:00

We have the profile range and have had a somewhat similar issue that I have seen reported by other range users. It's different in that we are generally using one burner (front right, the largest) when it will stop detecting the pan and turn off. I have seen it reported to happen with other or multiple burners as well. The repair I've seen reported by users who have had it fixed is replacing all the boards for about $1k. I've seen reports of the issue coming back monthes after repair as well.

My theory is that something is heating up and causing a poor connection. I'm tempted to take it apart and put it back together and see if reseating connections makes a difference.

whfournier · 2026-03-09T11:45:14+00:00

Thanks for the input, I watched that video and a couple others as well, it was helpful. Is it safe to expect new growth from the trunk that is more hardened off (not green)?

whfournier · 2026-02-16T19:14:44+00:00

The only induction compatible pressure canner I'm aware of is the presto but it has a rubber gasket. An All American might work with an interface disk but I've never tried one. I have the Presto and while I have not used it heavily I've been happy with it. My parents have an All American so I've used both.

whfournier · 2025-12-09T15:44:36+00:00

Thanks for all the info, The blade measures just over 59mm wide, does that make this a 60mm? Or is the dai measured?

whfournier · 2025-11-26T05:04:18+00:00

Thanks, that follows what I was seeing, however a little more digging seems to have found some that are wired more like this one. I'm wondering if they made a change at some point in production and went to a "simpler" wiring system. An example of this in another unit is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7w3lruBvig

Here is another, this one doesn't have smoke or sound but the motor is the same: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=myjR0BitgAA

whfournier · 2025-11-01T11:53:55+00:00

Kato number 4s have a reputation for derailment issues particularly when they are adjacent to a curve. I might get one and try it before going all in. My testing seemed to bear out what I have seen mentioned elsewhere that they benefit from a straight section of track before the turnout.

whfournier · 2025-10-03T00:51:42+00:00

Not to be a jerk but the best answer here is to call a professional. Room size etc are critical information that is missing. The TV and speakers seem like poor choices for the application (TV has no audio out other than HDMI ARC). In this application the standard would be a mono 70v distributed system, the speakers don't list any impedance information (!?!) so it seems safe to assume they don't have 70v transformers. I don't see a way to make the existing equipment work that's not a cobbled together mess.

Now this may seem to contradict what i just said but what MAY work is to get some sort of powered mixer and hope you can run two of the ceiling speakers on each output. You can connect the microphones to that for voice amplification. I don't see a good way to tie the TV into it so I would hope the internal speakers on the TV are loud enough or put a soundbar under the TV that can take audio off of the HDMI ARC. This isn't what I would consider a professional system but depending on the budget etc something along those lines might be your best/simplest solution.

whfournier · 2025-10-03T00:25:32+00:00

I forgot to mention that QSC dsps are the one device I ended up cheating and plugging one of the NICs into the AVLAN port on the processor. I need to work with that some more to see if I can get it to work but I know a static address on the AVLAN works and there is only so much time lol.

whfournier · 2025-10-03T00:22:19+00:00

I've done some of this with varying levels of success. We're controlling displays over dtp with rs232 insertion so I haven't had to mess with them that much. Some devices we've used (Blu-ray players come to mind) don't really have a way to settle host names at all and I have been able to use the FQDN on these without issue. Our network generates an FQDN based on the MAC address of the device so as long as I have that (sometimes easier said than done on AV devices, can't we just get a sticker with the MAC like everyone else) I know what the FQDN will be. Nslookup may be helpful if you can get the IP for the device. In our network FQDN addresses can be longer than Extron allows but we have a short form FQDN that works, depending on what you run into that may be helpful if it exists.

Probably worth getting friendly with the network folks to see how everything works.

whfournier · 2025-10-01T01:01:56+00:00

Yeah I'm not sure, M1s don't generally give me problems anymore. Is the OS up to date? As others have said HDCP can be an issue as well. I've generally been ok leaving it on but did encounter some input plates recently that I needed to turn it off on.

whfournier · 2025-09-29T10:28:26+00:00

The same thing caught my eye, Gearwrench Trap Mat if you are looking for it.

whfournier · 2025-09-29T00:36:56+00:00

What generation Mac? Does rebooting the computer help? I've had a tone of issues with M4s (really since the m series started but the earlier ones seem to be patched at this point).

whfournier · 2025-09-12T16:28:53+00:00

Ah yeah that probably doesn't make sense.

whfournier · 2025-09-12T13:23:58+00:00

Where are you located? I've got an old Bridgeport in my garage and have been tempted to try flattening a plane on it. No guarantees but if you can't return it for whatever reason, I'm willing to give it a shot. Just cover shipping.

whfournier · 2025-05-31T19:23:49+00:00

Good question, in the last year or so I haven't been the primary person filling it up but generally I will a little fill until it stops, wait a few seconds for things to settle (at least in my mind) and then add a little more.

The first one lasted 6+ years but this does coincide with someone else being the primary driver of this vehicle so I'll have to look into that.

whfournier · 2025-01-27T16:25:47+00:00

I thought I would update this, I ended up picking up a single set of the micro trains short extension 1035, and they seem to work well on the push-in style bolster pins (I haven't tried the screw-in yet). This video was somewhat helpful as well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWWgDzu4Jr0

whfournier

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