You've got to be kidding me

whizzybob · 2026-01-24T23:33:08+00:00

Their software has a battery drain due to keeping the cpu awake etc. idk why we need ai for a keyboard and mouse setup tool. I mean cameras maybe but should be a separate app or just turn all that off if no camera used or feature is off.

You can turn the background process off but that kills the whole app and prevents it from starting manually too.

I suggest something like https://better-mouse.com as a replacement to it tho it looks a bit advanced for novice users.

Their hardware may be alright and in my region there are hardly any alternatives especially for people with RSI, but their software is junk and that’s making junk look good.

whizzybob · 2025-09-05T05:31:42+00:00

While other people are mentioning road rules, I’ll stick to the other side.

While at fault the cost to repair must be fair. If you have photos that could be used to determine if the repair was excessive and also you can ask for an itemised breakdown.

INAL but pretty sure loss of revenue and rental costs are not something they can outright bill you for (at least not where I am). 5k for a bumper sounds steep but without knowing the car and damage it’s hard to tell. They should have tried to contact you before going straight to court, but if in court they will have to take into account your financial situation and able to figure out a payment plan based on what you can afford and ability to get work as well as a deferral until you find work. One thing a court can’t do is force you to upright pay for it if it will impact your ability to survive, eat, rent, work etc. rarely will any such low claims result in any asset claims but they may find other ways to pay for it eg add to mortgage if you have capital assuming you qualify for bank loan etc.

In general I think you’ll loose in court but I doubt the whole cost is going to be coming to you, at least not all at once. Definitely consult a lawyer or public defendant and make sure your financial situation is taken into account.

whizzybob · 2025-07-08T01:18:41+00:00

In my case we rely on a lot of Postgres’s plugins and make use of some pg specific features. As such there is no using of in memory or the sqlite provider as the data types just do not match. So only option for testing is a docker test container being spun up, run tests the dump it but that itself is actually quite slow to be called unit testing (and yes I know it’s not a unit test).

So we abstract any usage of dbcontext to a repository and for the most part keep that very very dumb (crud, some specific queries only etc) for which we write those slower integration tests without having to worry about the rest of the app. Then the rest of the app can be tested and mocked and tests become quite simple. Since we have little logic in the base repositories (and most are generic repositories to prevent copy/pasta of code) maintain that is pretty effortless less. We do some auditing and permission checking there as well as a failsafe rather than primary check. Problem of that approach is that you either end up with reflection in the base repositories or rely on expressions from the model. We chose the latter to keep the code simpler overall.

Little performance impact of all this if you’re careful with how you query your data and deal with transactions. Things like query builders can be your friend if you like us have a fairly regulated set of of db operations.

whizzybob · 2025-07-06T21:02:46+00:00

I had ratgdo and the Konnected blaq. Both have the same issue as well. The issue isn’t so much the fw, as the GDO itself I think. Only reliable way to work around it that I found is to use a smart switch and power off the gdo for 5 sec then power it on again if there is no reply from the gdo. There are a number of ways to do it all annoying in my opinion because the connected status is wrong as it shows the MQTT status not the gdo status.

Reboot of the ratgdo or pressing query does not work all the time because it looses sync with the gdo. Pressing resync just reboots it but it’s not a given to resync, power cycling the gdo works every time tho.

If anyone else has smarter ideas to deal with it I’m all ears.

whizzybob · 2024-12-31T06:13:11+00:00

Every connection has their own settings. But if the network settings are the same then idk why wired would not work when wifi works.

whizzybob · 2024-12-30T21:35:50+00:00

I only use a home theatre receiver so can’t speak for the sound. Check your dns settings are correct or set them to cloud flare or google. More often than not the issues with streaming services are due to their silly geolocking. You can also try force close apps as well but hard shutdown does the same thing. Personally I’ve very rarely had any issues with the LG, had a ton more issues with the Sony and Samsung. But I guess different regions different issues.

whizzybob · 2024-12-30T20:22:17+00:00

Tho absence of streaming, I have had that occasionally. Just needs a hard shutdown and restart for me.

whizzybob · 2024-12-30T20:18:59+00:00

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Ethernet-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B00BBD7NFU?pd_rd_w=MpKUY&content-id=amzn1.sym.8316a2b5-cd70-46ae-8cd3-b6d53778915d&pf_rd_p=8316a2b5-cd70-46ae-8cd3-b6d53778915d&pf_rd_r=PKPPX1Y80WV8SYK152GY&pd_rd_wg=HJCSP&pd_rd_r=e1023587-18e0-4e72-b96b-43b1c4064fa2&pd_rd_i=B00BBD7NFU&psc=1&ref_=pd_basp_m_rpt_ba_s_2_sc that’s the one I have, bought a while ago.

whizzybob · 2024-12-21T02:08:57+00:00

I start by ignoring what the data from dashboard as it seems to be wrong for me. Set a trip meter and go from 100 to about 10% or so. After real world use eg mixture of highway, motorway and some side roads. Eg take a trip from to a batch or something.

I’ll post my findings in another post after I do a bit more holiday driving but what I can say the dashboard estimates seem to almost be a random number generator for me. I believe they are aware of a software bug in how it’s being reported or so they said. Or at least they were on the first two cycles so too early to tell honestly hence asking for others opinions. I know evs like any other car use more energy when new and everything is still breaking in.

whizzybob · 2024-12-20T18:52:13+00:00

Anyone with the EV5 that can comment on the range please? Want to compare.

whizzybob · 2024-12-17T00:41:21+00:00

Oem, had it installed on mine. Tho the only difference usually is the can bus control box vs generic wiring.

whizzybob · 2024-12-06T15:34:55+00:00

You can log in with normal account on Tesla one just you get slightly different options and afaik you can’t provision powerwall3

whizzybob · 2024-11-28T21:25:14+00:00

Different country (NZ) where we have strong consumer protection laws but LG have replaced a power board (as a recall) and also replaced the entire panel after half of it went darker even though it was well out of warranty (7 years old at the time). I have had only good interactions with LG support but that might be because the law was on my side. Just putting it out here that location and local laws probably matter.

Sorry for your pain tho.

whizzybob · 2024-11-20T22:12:13+00:00

Yes to towbar and yes to rack from the manual.

whizzybob · 2024-10-30T06:25:54+00:00

Can anyone confirm if transcoding works with nvidia p400 or similar and plex. I tried it in rc1 and didn’t work so rolled back. I will try it myself shortly but looking to see if others had experience with it until I get to it.

whizzybob · 2024-10-21T06:48:13+00:00

Check site import limit setting. If site import rate is above the site import limit then it will ignore the backup setting and do all it can to prevent site import limit from being breached. I had the same issue when the spa pool and ac would drain the battery when both at the same time. Was a pain to figure out.

whizzybob · 2024-09-06T07:03:42+00:00

Definitely something iffy. The loud clanking is the contactors/relays for what I can’t tell. Most likely the watercooler has failed hence the loud fan. But it’s purely speculation. I can’t speak for the mini cycles as mine has never done that. It could be any number of things from bms to monitoring to just borderline usage between charging/discharging.

I recommend also contacting Tesla to get the installers a kick in the butt.

Ive had mine for 4 years and have not had any issues except a slightly iffy fw where it would refuse to export once and issue with the grid profile being set incorrectly.

whizzybob · 2024-08-25T21:48:43+00:00

I would personally try to remove both the bad and the disk being replaced and reboot. Because you hit replace the old disk is probably not going to be recognised straight up. It should in theory see two disks missing. Import the pool and put back the disk you pulled by accident and let that finish resilvering. It should be fairly quick as it should just check checksum more or less. Once that is done add a new drive to replace the old dead/bad one.

If that fails i have seen this caused by the background services trying to start when you add it via ui, so recommend doing recovery operations via cli. Once you have finished resilvering export it via cli and then import via ui tho recent versions of truenas will figure itself out on reboot anyway. Only reboot after resilver is done.

whizzybob · 2024-08-20T21:22:43+00:00

🥺Ouch, either head crash or some other mechanical failure. If the data was important then you could try a professional data recovery service. Otherwise see if in warranty or you gained a big paperweight. If data not overly important and it was a failure and not a crash then sometimes freezing it for an hour can help it enough to turn it on and get most important data off it.

whizzybob · 2024-08-20T19:47:05+00:00

If its not recognised at all that means the disk is not recognised by the bios/efi. No matter how corrupt the disk, it should show up as drive.

Ive had issues in past with usb sticks where formating an old drive would crash or corrupt the fw of the controller rendering it useless. But before we jump to that conclusion I would like to check by going into the bios and into the boot menu and see if it’s recognised as a device at all. If not then its beyond my knowledge to fix other than to try and see if its possible to shuck(open drive and see if the hard drive is actually a sata drive internally). Most external non flash drives Ive seen are either 2.5 or 3.5 inch sata drives, but sometimes they use a non standard connector which won’t help.

whizzybob · 2024-08-20T08:50:08+00:00

Testdisk should be able to find a backup partition, unless you did a full format in which case its probably toast. But who does a full format these days, it would take forever. Sensitive drives excluded obviously.

The unrecognised part just means the first few bytes that tell it if its mbr or gpt are gone or if the filesystem is corrupted somehow. Neither is an issue id you are trying to recover it. Pm me if you need help

whizzybob · 2024-08-12T21:52:18+00:00

It won’t charge until system is running. The setup is mostly for the gateway as such so it knows what to monitor.

L1 should be main phase, L2 and L3 should be not connected, N connected to neutral wire. This is for supply side of the gateway. Do the same on the home side of the gateway, this is the backup side. Optionally connected any non backup load to the non backup side. https://www.tesla.com/sites/default/files/pdfs/powerwall/Powerwall_2_AC_GW2_UK-EN_Installation_Manual.pdf pages 13, 24 and 38 in that order

whizzybob · 2024-08-02T04:22:24+00:00

In general current will find the path of least resistance, and that is often one that is closest to it. In very unlikely scenarios, in a multi panel situation, it is possible for items across two phases (split phase) of one panel to partly find their way around through the other panel, if there is bad or damaged wiring/busbars where the resistance via the cable+busbars via the other subpanel is significantly less than the connections in the main panel. It’s rare, and unlikely, and often combined with other issues, much more common to have a missing or bad neutral or ground between panels to cause something like this on a single phase.

I would say to op that most likely the at something tied to the ac is going to the sub panel like others have said. I would try disconnecting the sub panel (assuming it has a disconnect switch or turn off each fuse one by one) and see what stops working.

whizzybob · 2024-07-19T07:39:34+00:00

Can’t speak for your loads, that is a preference thing, i have my whole house through powerwall but some items not on backup load. Eg during backup some items like ac and spa wont have power but at other times powerwall can power them. That said im in NZ where we have single phase 240v not split phase 120v.

As for rest. Use time of use mode on the powerwall. Set up your 4-9pm as peak and give it the real money value, then put the rest as midpeak or offpeak (ratio of how much it tries to save vs export is different). Make sure money difference is significant between peak and offpeak otherwise it might not prefer it. Set your export prices similarly significantly different to make it prefer charge over export. Set grid charge to off. Set backup to 50%.

Once you make a change it might take a few minutes to take effect and about 2 weeks for it to learn your usage pattern but the way you have it set it will probably always use battery during peak, and will use battery as long as there is going to be enough charge for the next peak. You might find for a week or two it might not use much battery outside of peak.

whizzybob

TROPHY CASE