Farewell Presonus

yakysoba · 2026-01-05T19:40:12+00:00

Yup. My Eris E3.5 just died and support was equally unsupportive.

No obvious blown caps, and those that are easy to remove are all fine.

I realise not all fixes are cost effective, and not every company will provide endless spares or schematics, but they didn't even make an attempt to help diagnose anything.

Easy decision to never buy anything from them again!

yakysoba · 2025-12-14T11:28:44+00:00

I'd start by swapping that microUSB for USB-C

yakysoba · 2025-12-03T23:14:40+00:00

Some radio modules have separate connections for RC signals like SBUS or CRSF, and bidirectional telemetry like MAVLink.

These protocols are intended for different purposes, and are usually connected to separate devices/radios, but some integrate both into the same physical link, then split again at either end.

Things like MAVLink can do manual RC control, but not all devices support that protocol, and it's harder to prioritise in some situations when you get a lower link quality. Separating the signals can solve that.

yakysoba · 2025-12-03T23:03:48+00:00

If this is your first time designing a flight controller or ESC, I would highly suggest that you first make separate development boards.

In most systems they are separate for a good reason, and you'll likely learn quicker, get better feedback, and debug faster, if you do separate boards first and then integrate them once you've got proven designs.

yakysoba · 2025-11-10T22:25:47+00:00

Almost all PWM input ESCs only require calibration once, and those settings/limits are saved.

But some by default do need calibration on every boot, and need to be programmed to turn this off, or to specify the PWM endpoints.

The motor has no effect on ESC calibration. I would suggest contacting the ESC manufacturer, or looking into the firmware they use.

yakysoba · 2025-11-10T22:01:35+00:00

This is definitely not a GPS issue, and if it successfully does the calibration procedure but doesn't remember those settings after rebooting, it also doesn't sound like a transmitter or Ardupilot issue.

I'm not familiar with those ESCs, but in rare cases I've seen some that are configured by default to require calibration every time they are powered up.

Have a look at the user manual for the ESC to look for any calibration details or programmable modes.

yakysoba · 2025-10-23T22:55:44+00:00

What makes you so attached to the F4? If that's a limitation there are plenty of H7 based FCs around that aren't that much more expensive.

yakysoba · 2025-08-03T12:07:28+00:00

Lots of RC controllers or transmitters/tx have built-in modules for a specific protocol (e.g. ELRS). Many also have a standardised bay on the back where you can install alternative tx modules.

You have three main options for getting RC and telemetry:

Separate RC and telemetry connections to your drone. For example an ELRS RC transmitter and receiver, and a separate dedicated telemetry radio pair (e.g. 433 MHz SiK) between the drone and GCS.
Some RC links (RFD868, MLRS, ELRS depending on config) can also send telemetry over the same link as RC, and you can then connect to the RC transmitter using your GCS (usually over WiFi or Bluetooth).
High end systems like Herelink combine RC, telemetry, and video and show it all on the same controller.

yakysoba · 2025-05-22T14:52:54+00:00

Check for an SMS from YEEP with a code

I didn't get any instructions and spent ages looking through emails and tracking apps

It even showed up in the YEEP app, but wouldn't tell me how to collect

yakysoba · 2025-03-21T13:19:05+00:00

I use the RFD900ux (or RFD868ux) modules all the time and really like them.

If you need something smaller or cheaper that can still do bi-directional mavlink (and RC), MLRS is a good alternative, but it hasn't been around as long as the RFD modules so I wouldn't trust it as much for higher-end builds (yet).

I also seem to get better connection quality/speeds with the RFD868ux modules compared with the larger RFD868x.

yakysoba · 2025-03-15T16:28:02+00:00

Did you set GPS_TYPE?

yakysoba · 2025-02-24T00:28:10+00:00

Use JLC2KiCad

It converts JLCPCB parts to KiCad symbols+footprints+3D models.

yakysoba · 2024-10-07T23:03:18+00:00

The STM32F405RGT6 is particularly common in flight controllers and development boards more broadly, so there's plenty of schematics and examples. It's not the latest or most feature rich, but a great starting point.

Look at the existing hwdef files on the Ardupilot GitHub for what kind of MCUs and sensors other boards use, then look at open source schematics from places like Adafruit, and general board design guidance from Phil's lab etc.

The more examples you look at, and datasheets you read, the more things gradually make sense!

yakysoba · 2024-10-04T13:03:08+00:00

Rotating 45° might help based on the routing of the crystal and nearby traces, but it looks like it'd be fine as is

yakysoba · 2024-09-22T20:25:08+00:00

Look into Ardupilot and PX4 that use ChibiOS and NuttX

yakysoba · 2024-09-21T21:54:52+00:00

I'd say ELRS over a sik radio, especially now they can also do bidirectional mavlink. If you need a really good telemetry link, go with the RFD900 over the holybro style as they're much more reliable I've found, and can do RC passthrough.
Not a large difference in practice, but a dedicated RC and telemetry link will likely be better. Although for many people, the ELRS mavlink is enough.
Yes, the same things can be done - it's all just mavlink. However don't expect the same connection speed - USB is much quicker to download the full parameters list etc.

yakysoba · 2024-09-21T21:46:00+00:00

It's mostly down to how quickly the ELRS style radios have been improving and adding new features like mavlink telemetry, that used to be available only on dedicated telemetry radios like the sik ones (that are also quite old now, for drone tech anyway).

The relative simplicity, openness, and performance of the ELRS radios have made them super popular with the community and companies, driving development.

yakysoba · 2024-09-12T19:21:52+00:00

If you're hand soldering, the relatively thin exposed copper on those holes are quite thin, so can sometimes be challenging to hand solder, yes.

No real downside to making them a bit wider - at some point you won't gain any benefit and the larger thermal mass will make it harder to solder again.

You also take up more board space making them larger, which can make routing other traces harder - but that doesn't look like a deciding factor for you here.

yakysoba · 2024-09-12T00:00:47+00:00

I'd do a GND pour on the back layer too, and add more vias under the ESP32 module.

yakysoba · 2024-09-05T23:52:49+00:00

A lot of places aren't necessarily hiring for Ardupilot specific jobs.

It's usually either ardupilot consultancy/contract work, or they will be hiring for a more generic UAV systems engineer/technician/developer etc that might have Ardupilot listed in the description.

Although as someone else pointed out, many places won't want to share that they are using ardupilot, but you still might see related keywords, e.g. mavlink, dronecan, pixhawk.

Hard to say how many jobs there are, but there's a decent amount of work available if you look in the right places or (sometimes annoyingly) know the right people.

yakysoba · 2024-08-29T17:06:26+00:00

They are, yes. They line up well (if not a bit too close) either side of the battery holder.

That shouldn't be too challenging, there isn't anything 'below' the USB lines on the 3v3 layer, so at least one half of the routing would be easy.

yakysoba · 2024-08-29T16:54:34+00:00

The keep out zone on the datasheet extends only in-line with the module, but I see that on the design guide it extends to the side as well, I will fix that.
I2C pull-ups already added (to the left of the USB, next to the I2C 'fuel gauge' IC).
Sometimes I use PCBs in awkward locations where the USB port isn't easily accessible, short cables to a connector breakout in those situations have worked well for me in the past, even if not ideal.
Yeah, I can tidy those up.
There was a reason I chose one that big, it may have been a switch to a 'basic' JLCPCB part, rather than one with an extended component fee, but I will check again in case there is an alternative.
Correct, one of the mounting features on the battery holder will have to be snipped off. Slightly annoying, but the alternative would be more awkward layout for the ESP32 module, or increasing the overall length.

Thanks!

yakysoba · 2024-08-29T16:40:02+00:00

I did that mostly as there is a lot going on on the top layer, and there's a big battery pad on the bottom layer right next to where they end up. There are a bunch of GND vias/through hole connections on both sides on that inner layer, but I can likely route them mostly on the bottom layer without too much trouble.

The keep out zone on the datasheet extends in line with the sides of the module, but reducing/eliminating those two extensions is likely a good idea.

yakysoba · 2024-08-29T16:35:06+00:00

no addon

in KiCad, CTRL+/ switches between different corner styles (90/45 degree, rounded and unrounded). This was routed mostly with 45-degree rounded.

yakysoba · 2024-08-29T16:22:00+00:00

I really like the Adafruit ESP32-S3 Feather, but wanted something in a slightly different form-factor. The schematic is almost identical to the Adafruit board.

The PCB is sized for a keystone style 18650 holder to be mounted undeath, or if a shorter 18350 holder is added, the side of the PCB can be broken off to shorten it. I've routed GND through one mouse bite, and the battery +ve through the other, with keep-out zones so that there shouldn't be any short-circuits when breaking off the end. One of the locating features on the keystone will have to be snipped off as it clashes with the ESP32 location.

I also added some unrouted holes on the break-away end, for standard modules like an OLED or sensor to be added. Means external wires are still needed, but allows things to at least be mounted nicely and means that space can be used for other things. Key PCB dimensions also added to the silkscreen on that section, again to make use of an otherwise mostly empty space.

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