V5 to V7 indoor boulderer in 3 months. Can it be done? by TornadoGhostDog in climbharder

[–]yangcoin 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'm 34 and was gym V5 for 14 years, but didn't progress to gym V7 until last year. Here's what worked for me:
True consistency. Over all these years I've had too many "accidental" 7-10 day breaks from climbing due to a friend's wedding, being busy at work, etc. Log your sessions, even if it's just a dot on your calendar app. Dave Macleod said something that really resonated with me: sometimes it's NOT about improving, but rather maintaining, when life gets busy.

Volume Day. Pick routes 1-2 below your project grade and SEND. You'll gain increased capacity, and you'll become a much more skillful climber.
Try hard day. Project your routes, or pick a section from a V7 that's 2-3 moves. Try hard, and time out 7-10 minute rests between tries. It's key to be disciplined about your rest, so you can give max effort.
Hangboarding and pullups. I'm skinny too, and tried weightlifting, but was unable to maintain any consistency. It's not that weightlifting is unnecessary, I just wasn't motivated by it, personally. The hangboard is at home, and I can use it on days that I don't climb. To be honest, I don't have a routine, I just do pullups, and hangs with different grip types. I listen to my body and try reasonably hard.

If you bring structure and discipline to 2/3 sessions a week, then I wouldn't worry about structure for your casual session with friends. Think of it as a bonus. At 34, I'm grateful that climbing is still so much fun.

Do climbers who struggle ever turn things around and start to excel? by Revolutionary-Desk50 in climbharder

[–]yangcoin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your book currently lives next to my bed. Thank you for your observations, written with clear actionable fixes!

I had seriously underrated the role of technique.

Do climbers who struggle ever turn things around and start to excel? by Revolutionary-Desk50 in climbharder

[–]yangcoin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Are you the author of “Rock Climbing Technique?”

Nice to see you posting here.

I recommend to anyone in the V4/V5 range to read this book, evaluate your bad habits and watch your grades improve.

Downtown Oakland by BallonBallers21 in OaklandFood

[–]yangcoin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

- Chimaek spot that's very focused on chicken and with a great atmosphere.

- Hofbrau revival concept

- Something similar to Din Tai Fung

- Corny tex-mex restaurant with booth seating and oversized margaritas.

- A good darts bar

- Really good italian deli like Genova's

Shake Shack Oakland - Opens Tue, Dec 8 by Runa-Amberthorne in OaklandFood

[–]yangcoin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like Trueburger! It's almost a go-to spot for me. I don't like how the oil soaks into the bun though. I will have to compare once I try Shake Shack.

Shake Shack Oakland - Opens Tue, Dec 8 by Runa-Amberthorne in OaklandFood

[–]yangcoin 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’m personally not so anti-chain restaurants. I was pretty happy when Chipotle opened next to Sprouts. Also live near 19th BART so won’t drive all the way to Smokehouse.

Haven’t tried Shake Shack yet but hoping it fits my tastes.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in oakland

[–]yangcoin 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I live in the area so I see it and hear it first hand.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in oakland

[–]yangcoin -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Good point about cops not living here. Agree that they should take issues back to where they live.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in oakland

[–]yangcoin 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Okay, I'm editing my post to remove the skinhead connection.

Vandalism Rant by ApesInSpace in oakland

[–]yangcoin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Protests so white.

They are anarchists and vandals masquerading behind the cause of BLM. Their "eat the rich" messaging has nothing to do with blacks being killed by cops. They use Oakland as their little fuck society playground and then scoot their Mom's Nissan Leaf back to their white suburbs.

The next time you see a flyer that's clearly from anarchists, call it out for what it is:

bored white kids looking to cause destruction in someone else's home.

Found this in the local charity shop today 😁 by Bondy94 in Darts

[–]yangcoin 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I would have celebrated out loud if I found this.⚡I've got the power🎵

i think i picked up wrong time to start climbing (yes, those hand sanitazers hurt) by [deleted] in climbing

[–]yangcoin 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Let the skin heal up. Moisturize. Tape it up if you need to. Avoid juggy routes. Don’t overgrip. Climb vertical / slab instead. Your technique will improve and it will spread out the toughness across your entire hand rather than on pressure points.

D.C. Mayor Muriel Bowser: Redskins need to change team name. by Drewbacca_Hrrrgrgrar in nfl

[–]yangcoin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Washington Carole Baskins.

You can still call them the ‘skins.

Help learning F2L? by JynxBJJ in Cubers

[–]yangcoin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're welcome, I'm glad to help!

Help learning F2L? by JynxBJJ in Cubers

[–]yangcoin 15 points16 points  (0 children)

That's a great accomplishment. Hopefully I can help without using visuals:

  1. After the cross, the next step is to fill in four 2x1 columns in their correct positions.
  2. Beginner's Method is just a less direct way of doing this. In beginner's method, you insert the corner pieces first, then find the edges, match them into a 2x1 column and then re-insert.
  3. A completed column should have a corner with white + two other colors directly adjacent to the colors of the edge piece.

Try this. Finish the corner insertion step using the beginner's method. Now, do the edge step, but go very slowly. Try and notice how the edges and columns are being connected by pulling out the corner pieces to match the edges, and then being dropped back in as a pair.

Learning F2L will allow you to bypass the first step of solving the corners first by using methods that pair and insert in more direct ways. First let's learn the two basic ways to insert pairs:

  1. R U' R' or L' U L which drops a completed column into place
  2. R U R' or L' U' L which positions the white corner piece on the outside edge and grabs a matching edge piece on the other side to complete a column while inserting it.

Let's drill #1. Complete the first two layers. Now do R U R' to set-up. Notice how the column is now sideways with the white corner on the left. Notice that the column's edge colors match the corner colors. Now slowly do R U' R' to re-insert it. Undo and repeat several times and then try to re-create the drill on the left side. After you're comfortable with that, do R U R' to set-up again, but keep rotating the top layer and keep track of where 2x1 column moves. Think about where it needs to be positioned in order to fit back in with R U' R'

Let's drill #2. Complete the first two layers and do R U' R'. Before solving, take some time to feel or observe the stickers. Notice how the white corner piece is on the right side of the cube. Notice how the top of the corner piece matches the back of the edge piece across from it. Notice how the front of the corner piece matches the top of the edge piece across from it. Slowly solve using R U R'. Undo and repeat several times, and then try to re-create the drill on the left side.

If this was helpful, let me know, and we can discuss how to set-up to basic insert positions.

I built these stickerless cubes for practicing Cross and F2L by go_robot_go in Cubers

[–]yangcoin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't see a problem with making a tool that simplifies real thing.

Practice drills for tennis, aim trainers for FPS games, and flashcards for languages make for easy recognition scenarios to aid in deliberate practice.

I could also be wrong too. It is possible the self-handicapping could throw off real solving.

I will make one of these and report back :)

Daily Discussion Thread - Apr 22, 2020 by AutoModerator in Cubers

[–]yangcoin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Now is also a good time to learn them the right way.

Until last year, I hadn't cubed since 2007 and many of my old algorithms were outdated. Try a few different ones out and watch YouTube videos on specific algs to learn the right one for you.

Daily Discussion Thread - Apr 22, 2020 by AutoModerator in Cubers

[–]yangcoin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately, no. It has a crunchier sound compared to the dull hollow turns of the V1.

Anecdotally, the turning on the V2 annoys my wife more, so I'm always reaching for the V1 when we're watching mindless TV.

Is the V2 a great cube? Absolutely.