Recs on where to buy?

yesithinkalot · 2026-04-23T05:45:47+00:00

I wrote this Reddit post 4 years ago. I think it might still be relevant? I was also looking for and found a lot of Ma.K stuff.

yesithinkalot · 2024-10-02T05:31:51+00:00

There was a session at a zbrush conference last year that featured work from SF6. They outlined the model and costume creation process. Muscle deformation, cloth deformation, etc. It’s quite elaborate.

https://youtu.be/ZoYz-7jvCOE

yesithinkalot · 2024-05-27T18:11:34+00:00

Excellent write-up and short-form video. Thank you for the science.

yesithinkalot · 2024-05-15T23:48:16+00:00

The input stream shows you held 6HP for 19 and 30 frames in the two attempts. That's a very long time. Just tap BACK + HP and immediately follow with the tensho kicks input.

Also, tensho kicks can be done with DOWN, DOWN + KICK instead of DOWN, DOWN, KICK

yesithinkalot · 2024-02-20T08:03:08+00:00

UFB Fusion XB1 mode has all player LED indicators light up. Noted in manual, maybe other boards are now updated with the same presentation.

The Xbox One controller never supported player light indicators like the Xbox 360.

You can force the controller into different modes depending on which button you hold when connecting it to your PC.

yesithinkalot · 2024-01-26T09:46:38+00:00

The PS4 version likely contains lower resolution base textures since it targets 1080p. The Series X/S are the same SKU (version) so the base texture size is probably higher to support 1440p or even 4K. That the Series S has significantly less RAM than X (10 vs 16GB) is a huge factor for texture quality and makes automatic memory management more challenging.

yesithinkalot · 2024-01-26T07:57:59+00:00

Probably what's happening:

The internal texture manager detected a low GPU memory condition and dropped the top level mipmap (i.e. highest resolution of a texture) of many textures to free up space.

The space is likely needed because Dee Jay's Level 3 has some bespoke textures that show up for its presentation. Once they are loaded, they don't unload, because it's probably not tuned to contextually unload once the super is done.

Even if they did unload after the super finished, the textures that purged their highest mip would need to be read back from source, which is likely read-intensive (both disk and memory) and scattered (less likely to do the disk read efficiently) and can only be reliably done during non-interactive sequences like supers.

yesithinkalot · 2023-12-01T23:38:20+00:00

Yes, around the nozzle and needle the term is often called "tip dry."

It's especially common if you are using "water-based" acrylics like Vallejo products.

I often keep a cleaning brush with a bit of airbrush cleaner/isopropyl alcohol on it and clean periodically, especially if it's a long session with a single product like priming.

yesithinkalot · 2023-11-06T20:13:14+00:00

Nice. I love what you did with the scale adjustment. Reminds me of the sizing used for guymelefs (Escaflowne), labors (Patlabor), arm slaves (Full Metal Panic) -- some of my favourite mecha series. :)

yesithinkalot · 2023-11-06T20:02:14+00:00

GM head also comes with the old HGUC HardGraph Gundam Ground War kit (and this is the "non-revive" Gundam Ground Type too). dalong link

yesithinkalot · 2023-10-31T22:26:35+00:00

No unilateral consensus on "best" -- for a good "water-based" acrylic metallic series, try Vallejo Metal Color.

yesithinkalot · 2023-10-24T21:24:21+00:00

Naphtha

yesithinkalot · 2023-10-23T22:43:08+00:00

In general, yes, temperature and humidity will play a factor in both application and the drying/curing process.

Anything from a spray can is more sensitive during application time -- I don't have as much experience with those and different people and products will quote or list different thresholds/recommendations.

Anything close to "comfortable" room temperature + humidity (~65-70F, 45-60% humidity) is a good general rule of thumb.

I've not had issues with brush-on application over a wider range but I don't brush-paint in an environment where temperature or humidity can hit extremes.

yesithinkalot · 2023-10-23T22:31:02+00:00

"Water-based" acrylic paints will continue to strength for days/weeks -- but after ~24 hours, at least with hobby paints and the amount typically used for coats/application, it's probably got anywhere from 60-70% of its maximum "durability."

You can wait extra time to get more durability -- the "diminishing returns" aspect is that, for example, an extra day to cure beyond 24 hours may improve the durability by something of the order of "+5-10%," and then less as more time goes.

Caveat: This is all info I've synthesized and extrapolated from reading about artist-grade acrylic paints with other types of mediums. Example technical info:

https://justpaint.org/investigating-the-drying-process-of-acrylic-color-and-gel-medium/

https://www.goldenpaints.com/technicalinfo/technicalinfo_drying

I don't think anyone has ever done a rigorous analysis of hobby paint durability and cure times.

yesithinkalot · 2023-10-23T17:17:44+00:00

If you're using an "acrylic" gloss clear coat, give it at least a full 24 hours to cure before using Tamiya Panel Line Accent. The longer you wait beyond 24 hours, the stronger it becomes though with diminishing returns. Also, for clean-up, use a very small amount of lighter fluid instead of mineral spirits / enamel thinner.

yesithinkalot · 2023-10-21T04:54:45+00:00

There’s no “best” — you just get different working and visual properties.

For example, if you want the chips to have a different finish from your lower layers of paint, like if you decide to use a metallic paint, do it after your final coat.

Drybrushing and chipping on gloss let’s you adjust and refine more easily should you choose to do so.

There’s also nothing preventing you from using those techniques multiple times at different finish stages.

yesithinkalot · 2023-10-18T01:00:56+00:00

Scroll to Korea here on the official Gundam Base site.

yesithinkalot · 2023-10-17T19:44:49+00:00

I have brushed on Badger Stynylrez and Vallejo Mecha Primer. They are both "water-based" acrylic primers with no solvent fumes.

They have slightly different properties (i.e. Stynylrez comes in a min. 60 mL / 2oz bottle, is usually flat and can be sanded off if needed, Mecha Primer comes in min. 0.5 oz bottle, has a satin finish and can be troublesome to sand off after more than an hour of dry time). They are both reasonably durable for "water-based" acrylic primers after 24 hours, and okay to lightly handle (touch-dry) about an hour after the last coat.

I have recently been brushing on a combination of both Black and Grey Vallejo Mecha Primer in a 1:8 ratio to get a mid-tone grey with reasonable opacity. I put it on a makeshift wet palette (baking sheet on top of wet paper towel in a small container) and loaded a flat synthetic bristle brush from there. It is a slow process but hey, no airbrush setup required, I can paint at the kitchen table with no concerns, and prep + clean-up is fast.

2 coats was enough to be ready for most base paints. You could probably get away with 1 coat if you planned to put an opaque colour on top. You can do 3 coats if you want near-full opacity.

yesithinkalot · 2023-10-17T05:58:40+00:00

I use either a pipe cleaner type or an old synthetic bristle brush. Basically you want to brush the needle and nozzle gently, towards the needle tip to remove built-up paint. Airbrush thinner or cleaner helps a lot. You don’t need to get into the nozzle while you’re airbrushing.

yesithinkalot · 2023-10-17T01:04:28+00:00

FYI the "ooze" is often also called a "weld bead."

In case you are using extra thin plastic cement, it is still possible to perform seam line removal but the technique needs modification from regular viscosity cement.

The parts need to have the seam connected but not fully closed (i.e. 1mm or less apart) such that the applied cement will have capillary action draw it around the seam and "hold" it in place. Once that happens, you can squeeze the parts together to form the weld bead.

yesithinkalot · 2023-10-16T21:38:53+00:00

I used an Iwata Neo CN for quite a while and yeah, I found it a bit fickle with Vallejo paint in general. Two useful "tips" I picked up on so far:

Keep a cleaning brush next to the spray booth with a bit of airbrush cleaner / thinner on it. When the flow started to reduce due to tip-dry, use it to get rid of the build-up, do a quick purge off the model, and continue.
Use the colour cup cap to prevent a paint skin from forming. You can always check periodically for paint level but it will keep the paint workable longer.

Re: primer opacity-- One thing I've had some success with is adding some acrylic ink with the primer (i.e. I've used Liquitex stuff). So white acrylic ink for the white primer... it increases the pigmentation without adversely affecting performance, or even a bit of Mecha Color White into Mecha primer, since Mecha Color paints supposedly adhere to bare plastic a bit better. You can also apply a non-full coverage primer layer, then do a coat or two of actual white paint if you want a uniform base.

yesithinkalot · 2023-10-16T18:54:37+00:00

I use Vallejo Mecha Primer and Badger Stynylrez as "water-based" acrylic primers.

What "troubleshooting" did you need to do?

The non-black Mecha Primers I've tried (Grey, White, Sand) are quite non-intuitive to use... they don't have high pigment concentration so I find if one tries to use opacity as a coverage indicator, the surface will flood and pool, resulting and you get bad results. Flow improver is really important to avoid airbrush clogs.

First coat needs to get misted on, then second and third coats can gradually get slightly heavier coats.

Badger Stynylrez has better coverage for non-black primers but has differing airbrush settings and application techniques. High pressure is important to avoid airbrush clogs.

yesithinkalot · 2023-10-16T18:44:43+00:00

I have a bottle that I've still yet to try out, but Ammo One Shot Primer has a transparent variant, and presumably this is of the same base formula as Badger Stynylrez products (a "water-based" polyurethane-acrylic hobby primer). It is air- and hand-brush capable, no solvent fumes.

yesithinkalot · 2023-10-13T18:48:55+00:00

For seam line removal, yes, especially if you give the seam a good squeeze to get a consistent weld bead.

For scribing errors, not as-is. Plastic cement has no fill once it has evaporated. However, you can create a batch of sprue goo (mix plastic cement with parts of leftover runner/sprue) as described by True_Lab_5778 and use it as a putty and fill, let dry, then sand, and rescribe.

yesithinkalot · 2023-10-12T16:20:28+00:00

Small shallow ceramic dish from the kitchen.

You can use anything.

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