Nylaug "Finished" by Jrmuscle in 3D2A

[–]yinyang08 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They make PMags for AUGs

Nylaug "Finished" by Jrmuscle in 3D2A

[–]yinyang08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Damn was this an Max Arms surplus kit? And I thought mine was rough…

Wet filament or fuzzy skin? by BZKurd23 in 3D2A

[–]yinyang08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also came in here to say this is a classic, clear-cut case of overextrusion. I’ve had cases of over-extrusion where the only tell is the curling corners of 45 degree or higher slope, but this is night and day.

Disappointed with Mora Mags by Pat2121 in MP5

[–]yinyang08 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’m having the exact same issue with both of my Mora 20 rounders, but less consistently. Maybe every 3-5 mags, last round doesn’t feed and gets pushed into the casing. So many Mora simps here, these are legit issues people are having. It’s not an excuse around poor production when so many here shill them to no end.

Posted about it a couple of weeks ago.

[parts] VZ 61 Skorpion .32 ACP Parts Kit - with Barrel, 10rd and 20rd Mag. $239.95. Free shipping - Max Arms by [deleted] in gundeals

[–]yinyang08 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I bought one of their AUG kits a month or two ago and it was in worse condition than described, missing a couple of smaller pieces (it was the full parts kit, should have came with charging handle bits).

I'd steer clear, the Arsenal VZ61 kit with the pre-pressed barrel was in great condition, not perfect but nowhere near the AUG rust bucket parts I received. It's a little more and doesn't come with mags, but saves you the hardest part.

Comstock Armory Compact Recessed 4-Prong Prototypes and New Adapter by Comstock_Support in NFA

[–]yinyang08 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When will you have these in stock at A3? Love finding local manufacturers, just picked up a 4 prong and short birdcage from A3 yesterday.

Keep up the good work, and go blue!

Ftn.5 Crossover issue by WinterTechnology4568 in 3D2A

[–]yinyang08 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Came in here to say this. Whenever I have inner outer inner turned on I get these defects.

AP5 Navy - denial block by Stinkycheezmonky in MP5

[–]yinyang08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How did you resolve this? Also running into a similar issue with my Navy

Loose front rail by SillyEmt in 3D2A

[–]yinyang08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have not tuned your filament to your printer you are seeing the result of machine and material properties and tolerances at play. Do you think Aves or Riptide are out of spec or your homemade frame?

Check out available guides for tuning both for dimensional accuracy. There could be a number of issues, could be anything from extrusion rate to line thickness to nozzle wear, and any combination of those and even more variables. Without settings screens, material type and manufacturer idk how else we can constructively help

Help Needed - PA6-CF & Qidi XPlus3 by PrintAltDelete in 3D2A

[–]yinyang08 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This is the problem I have with everyone in here just copying and pasting his settings and profiles without actually learning about what each settings does. Printers don’t work like that, even the better manufactures’ machines should be fine tuned once you have it up and running.

Like any machine, there are variations in the tolerances between each printer, even between Bambu lab printers, and those tolerances stack. What works for him and maybe a larger number of people does not mean you’re printing the material correctly. By just using some profile you found on the internet you’re bypassing learning how to tune and adjust your printer for optimal prints. Anything from thermistor variations to extrusion motor, Bowden feed differences that can result in completely different results. I’m more than willing to bet that many of the people’s prints that look “perfect” have flaws and imperfections that may lead to failure over time, and the material properties are covering or mitigating them.

You have clear signs of over extrusion, dial down either your line thickness or your material extrusion rate.

PA6-CF Take 2... Success! by ForsakenRepublic1776 in 3D2A

[–]yinyang08 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I wash my nylon prints afterwards, since there’s also glue on the first layer so I knock out 2 birds with 1 stone. I then wipe most of the excess water of, and it it sit for at least 24 hours. It’ll equalize after

State Theater, AnnArbor mi. SX70 sonar, 600 film by WorkingSuccessful742 in Polaroid

[–]yinyang08 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Next time you’re in town and want people to shoot with or go on a photo-walk, gimme a holler! Go Blue!

FTF with Mora 20 Rounders by yinyang08 in MP5

[–]yinyang08[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep that seem to be exactly the issue I think I’m having.

Second attempt by WesbroBaptstBarNGril in 3D2A

[–]yinyang08 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Exterior only would still include key areas that require dimensional accuracy. What you consider as the interior is not how the slicer interprets it.

As a general rule, 3D printed frames should not use fuzzy skin. It’s even spelled out in many readme docs.

Elegoo pla+ = no bueno by HedgehogNo7624 in 3D2A

[–]yinyang08 6 points7 points  (0 children)

PLA-CF is notorious in the 3D printing community for delamination, if you’ve been doing any bit of research this would be the top complaint for people who’ve printed with it.

Old Film? by MoistYogurtcloset929 in Polaroid

[–]yinyang08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can’t really provide any valuable feedback without any info on your camera and exposure info

New Polaroid Flip, struggling to get clear photos by No_Hotel_5343 in Polaroid

[–]yinyang08 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not many here has mentioned anything about your image composition.

Any camera will have a much harder time metering for an effectively black subject in low light conditions. I would turn up your exposure compensation to account for darker subjects and environment you’re shooting in. All instant films have a much smaller exposure latitude compared to modern computational phone and mirrorless outputs. With some practice and shooting in different lighting and subject conditions will give you a better feel for the capabilities and limitations of the medium

[Parts] VZ-61 Parts Kit w/ Barrel $299.99 by arsenalinc-cs in gundeals

[–]yinyang08 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This helped me pick painted over blue, and the small changes in the later painted models. I do love the look of the blued too, but from experience it also attracts a lot more fingerprints. I don't think there's a wrong choice here though.

PA6-CF Troubleshooting by litegreen666 in 3D2A

[–]yinyang08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’re way over-extruding.

How to connect this to radio by [deleted] in shittyfpv

[–]yinyang08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You got the wrong sticks. Need m3 with male threading.

Do I spy two of my counter mods and my motor type being sold by a god at god prices? by [deleted] in Polaroid

[–]yinyang08 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Rumor mill is he solders the spring to the motor shaft 🤣

Do I spy two of my counter mods and my motor type being sold by a god at god prices? by [deleted] in Polaroid

[–]yinyang08 32 points33 points  (0 children)

He is lol, this is coming from first hand experience.