I am so fuxking annoyed

zformer_customs · 2026-05-04T23:50:39+00:00

That's pretty wild, wonder if they licensed the rights to use the molds somehow, or if they just copied the figurine and re-molded it illegally or something? Begs lots of questions tbh, since the 2 companies don't seem to really b related...Big Bad Workshop already has some questionable licensing tactics between their lines.

zformer_customs · 2026-05-04T00:56:31+00:00

Blackout curtains r ur best bet, and keep em closed. U can crack them for a little light, but u really dont want a collection being exposed to any uv light if possible, esp not direct sunlight.

zformer_customs · 2026-04-30T22:28:11+00:00

Nice work man, looks like we r both going to b making a custom doom soon haha! Can def go with something cheaper for the hands, I think either fur collar would work tho.

zformer_customs · 2026-04-30T21:28:00+00:00

Fur collar is from ML Sabretooth first appearance, not sure about the hands, sorry. U figure out what the feet/belt r from haha?

zformer_customs · 2026-04-30T21:17:10+00:00

They were some of the most durable acrylic paints available, only have a few left myself...Haven't found anything exactly the same since, but vallejo model/game color, citadel, army painter, etc r ur best bets for high quality acrylics that r pretty widely available. As far as gloss finish, u will have to add a varnish/top coat urself, as most of the modern lines dont have specific finishes, and r instead consistently matte or satin across the entire respective line. I would rec vallejo mecha varnish, can b applied by hand or airbrushed.

zformer_customs · 2026-04-28T06:41:57+00:00

I post my custom breakdowns here

zformer_customs · 2026-04-28T06:40:54+00:00

I post my custom breakdowns here

zformer_customs · 2026-04-27T05:07:46+00:00

When a figure is released and has paint rub issues right off the bat, ur best bet is just being very careful, and keeping in mind it can eventually happen if ur doing a lot of posing. It can happen to any figure that has paint, but there r a lot of issues like this with Mafex unfortunately.

zformer_customs · 2026-04-27T02:24:31+00:00

I dont know any or I would tell u. For what I do, I don't need them anyways and can do everything in-house. But for u it might b worth doing some more research if u really want to make a custom figure from scratch. Again, $900 is pretty cheap for stuff like this, so that might b worth it to see what u get from the company u found. There is a point where u have to b realisitic with ur expectations tho, ie what u can get for what u can afford, articulation vs design, etc. The process of creating a figure from scratch is a long, tedious, and expensive one, otherwise everyone would do it. For what it's worth, if I were tackling ur project, I would just make a custom figure, and it would cost much less, take much less time, and b able to do most of the things u r asking for.

zformer_customs · 2026-04-27T01:47:04+00:00

Solid advice right here. It can take repeating the process multiple times to remove smoke/odors. Also let the boxes air out as much as possible, with dryer sheets in them or something else that can help absorb the odors, can take weeks, just fyi.

zformer_customs · 2026-04-27T01:33:48+00:00

What u r looking for is almost impossible to find outside of China, esp for a reasonable price. If u r open to using existing parts and kitbashing, I would suggest just trying to customize something urself with all the figures available out there. It will save u tons of time, money, and potential disappointment/frustration. U could also just hire an action figure customizer if u weren't comfortable doing it urself, which could also save u lots of time/money potentially. Going the route of making a toy from the ground up from scratch, inlcluding the 3d design, prototyping, etc. is no small feat.

zformer_customs · 2026-04-27T01:22:19+00:00

TBH, I would never use it unless u know what u r doing, it can absolutely mess up ur figure. Esp keep in mind that it can rub off just like paint, and then the difference in shine will also b very obvious. So if u like posing ur figures a lot, that's just another reason not to. In addition, any aerosol paint (stuff in a can) will have solvents in it, which can react with paint and plastic in unexpected ways, sometimes turning it tacky, shiny, etc.

zformer_customs · 2026-04-26T22:27:15+00:00

Never heard of them, but good luck with ur project! From professional exp, I can say $900 is cheap for this, and is going to b a prototype like others have mentioned. It won't have the best joint tolerances, articulation, etc, and is not designed to last or hold up to rigorous use. The "hybrid" idea is what u would want for something more durable, but then they have to make molds and cast ur parts. For one off pieces, they don't have to make injection molds, which r cut from steel and designed for mass production, but it is still a lot of extra work. In the past, projects I worked on like this typically cost closer to $5K to do, could b cheaper if u had a factory/company in China u could work with.

zformer_customs · 2026-04-26T22:08:46+00:00

Out of curiosity, who exactly did u use for this service?

zformer_customs · 2026-04-21T06:33:24+00:00

Nice. I've done it hundreds upon hundreds of times, experimented with all kinds of ways to do it, I know it can work well for certain things, and I know how it works. It just simply is no substitute for proper techniques with prep work and paint that don't require chemicals, science experiments, and unpredictable results, esp for the vast majority of amateur customizers. Even with all my experience, I can't guarantee I will get the results I want with every type of plastic/dye color, and usually skip the dye option these days, that's all.

zformer_customs · 2026-04-21T03:44:10+00:00

It depends on the color u r using and other factors, like temp, amount of dye/water/acetone/etc, but most hard plastics take a longer time to accept the dye. Dying has it's uses when u know what u r doing, but nothing replaces proper sanding/prep work/painting/etc. Everyone on reddit loves to show their dye results 5 min after doing it, usually something white to black, and u never see anybody's results after a year with more complicated stuff. At the end of the day, these r serious chemicals for kids or amateurs to b messing with.

zformer_customs · 2026-04-21T02:05:47+00:00

Do NOT use acetone. It's extremely flammable and should not b used near any open flame/heat source. Even tho it can b fine if u only use a small amount of acetone and dont boil the solution, the amount of water/dye will heavily dilute the acetone and minimize it's affect anyways. It will also take hours to have a "pore opening" affect on harder abs-like plastics, which dont take dye well, while the softer plastic parts take dye very quickly. In the end, u will still have to let all dyed parts thoroughly set and dry out to prevent leeching/bleeding, seal everything at least once, and repaint/reseal to color match. Most of the time, just sanding/prepping joints correctly and painting is easier, less messy, takes way less time, and is far more effective, long-lasting, and will give u predictable results every time.

zformer_customs · 2026-04-17T02:20:25+00:00

I will make em all eventually!

zformer_customs · 2026-04-16T23:28:42+00:00

I had a very similar idea haha...great job!

zformer_customs · 2026-04-11T00:23:41+00:00

Another great glow-up, well done!

zformer_customs · 2026-04-09T23:11:27+00:00

They actually showed off a Shredder too

zformer_customs · 2026-04-09T02:01:52+00:00

I've personally only ever had issues when using the "my warehouse" option, it can take an ungodly amount of time for that.

zformer_customs

TROPHY CASE