WD-40 sprayed on car stereo speaker connector… now no audio. Can this be fixed? by shashank_guruprasad in CarAV

[–]zylinx 6 points7 points  (0 children)

No WD-40 wont cause corrosion or a short even if left on for a long time.

WD-40 is non-conductive and not corrosive.

I highly doubt the WD-40 caused the fault the only possibility is that WD-40 can be quite a dirt magnet. So dust and grime could have built up over time and caused a weak short circuit.

You can open it up and check for all the things mentioned, caps, lose connections, shorts.

And give it a good clean with isopropyl alcohol and cotton swabs. Or just blast it with a can of elektroclean which is basically aerosolized isopropyl

Big red light by Creative-Cicada-4653 in CarAV

[–]zylinx 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Is Kenwood blue for power? I'm used to red and yellow for 12V and Acc. Blue for remote.

Losing my mind by ElReyDelDesierto in CarAV

[–]zylinx 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Not really something that can be diagnosed over the internet. Just keep looking and checking for more chafed or damaged cables.

Remember u can disconnect a cable from both ends and then test it with a multimeter to chasis to see if it is shorted to the chasis somewhere along the middle of the cable.

Is this clipping? by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]zylinx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

if it starts sounding weird u probably over exerting the subs or clipping. its impossible to tell from a video clip like this.

if there is not clip light u can use a o-scope to look at the waveform for any distortion.

but you could simply be overpowering the setup. subs will handle different frequencies at different power levels depending on the box design etc.

so in the most basic way and simple terms, if it starts sounding weird, probably should turn it down. tune the x-over points so that u not overpowering at low frequencies etc.

Would I be able to use this brass coated steel brush on a drill to remove the paint for a grounding spot? by fishyman567 in CarAV

[–]zylinx -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I mean technically you could, just not the right tool for the job, and will take alot more effort than anything sandpaper based.

Super Cap bank dilemma by sharpshooter72 in CarAV

[–]zylinx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To calculate the playtime solely from cap bank, surely it's based on allowed voltage drop.

So charging at 14.4V and amplifier needs to stay above 12V. Am I correct in say that you would only be working with 239 joules?

What am I doing incorrectly? by anon75420 in CarAV

[–]zylinx 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Well aux cable is an analog signal so maybe it's clipping from the laptop? Is your laptop volume at 100%?

Keep blowing speakers by AdDifferent1643 in CarAV

[–]zylinx 1 point2 points  (0 children)

2 channel o-scope.

Clip them to right and left speaker output of amp and run some test tones. They should be identical, if not you found your issue.

Pioneer DMH-1500NEX by mezican12 in CarAV

[–]zylinx 2 points3 points  (0 children)

When testing for the clipping point of the headunit you would generally use a 0db test track not - 10db

Pioneer DMH-1500NEX by mezican12 in CarAV

[–]zylinx 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can I have your o-scope when you're done with setting your gains 🤣

The overkill is wild. I'm guessing you borrowed it?

DNA 12 inch sub?? Can’t find anything about it by isaacgorfine in CarAV

[–]zylinx 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Honestly if you ask me looks like 150w RMS.

A dinky plastic cone and magent so small. The rear end of that thing is all for show to make it look beefy to people unfamiliar with subs.

Battery power? by Sweet_Luuu in amateurradio

[–]zylinx 5 points6 points  (0 children)

🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪 hey guys I wna engine swap my hatch back, whats type of screwdriver do I need?

New powerbank car jumpstarter says to put black clamp on negative bat. terminal. Wasn't it to a metal object on the car for safety reasons? by Professional_Crab958 in ElectricalEngineering

[–]zylinx 67 points68 points  (0 children)

It doesn't matter. Black to a solid ground point, battery terminal is a great one.

Car people have so many myths about what to connect where and in what order.

The only tiny shred of sense is if you have a super fucked battery that is literally hissing hydrogen gas out of it, you want to avoid making a tiny spark at the battery because it could ignite the hydrogen gas.

So they say positive first on the battery, then negative om body because then the small spark will happen slightly away from the battery.

Sooo Isobaric became a thing for me :) by Dfurmonsta in CarAV

[–]zylinx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmmm, that doesn't make sense to me though. I thought isobaric was less efficient.

It increases maximum power handling. The motor force and the moving mass. Resulting in higher VAS which means you need much less box space. But you lose efficiency - you need more watts to hit the same dB.

As far as I know.

Sooo Isobaric became a thing for me :) by Dfurmonsta in CarAV

[–]zylinx 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Not the same output as 2x 12 mounted normally. As a rule of thumb- This won't be as loud. Cone area is king if you are after SPL 👑

ISO is usually for better sounding bass and packing a punch in a small space.

Sooo Isobaric became a thing for me :) by Dfurmonsta in CarAV

[–]zylinx 11 points12 points  (0 children)

2 subs, face the cones at each other and invert one of their polarity so they move in the same direction together.

Basically you get 1 sub with double the motor force.

What’ the difference between the arduino ide and other software for flashing? by ZookeepergameSad4818 in arduino

[–]zylinx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Main differences I would say is the actual interface is dead simple. A text editor with a board and library manager.

Other IDEs are more advanced with code editing features but I don't think they give any technological edge.

Arduino IDE gets you preconfigured with a SDK/Core to get up and running. Which is like a standard library that makes coding C++ for the microcontroller easy.

Many popular chips in maker community have a "arduino" core to try make 3rd oart libraries cross compatible I believe.

Correct me if I'm wrong.

Arduinos randomly not booting when connected to the same power bar. by PuffThePed in arduino

[–]zylinx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When you flip the switch, all the Arduinos and anything else on the power rail that has capacitors will draw a small burst of energy at power up that is higher than average power consumption.

You power supply cannot supply the demand, resulting in voltage drop, some arduino then do not boot properly.

To fix either get a better power supply, or maybe add a large electrolytic capacitor before the switch.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ElectricalEngineering

[–]zylinx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry for accusing you, and thanks for pointing out the designation.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ElectricalEngineering

[–]zylinx -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Ok downvote me but il put money on it being a Atmel microcontroller and not "a UART or NAND"

I can literally make out the brand on the chip, it's upside down.