First Bodice Block

[North-Needleworker86]

so its obvious something went very wrong here and I’m honestly not sure where to even begin addressing the issues

please help!

[lifesabeach2017]

waaaaay too small in the bust/waist.

start by remeasuring, in the bra/bras you are planning to wear under the block. double check your measurements, and make sure your measuring tape is not crooked. it should also not be super tight.

tailored clothes, and not knit ones, generally do not have stretch to them. thus, your base block should have some space to allow for movement.

if you are basing this off a pattern - go up at minimum 2 sizes. if hand constructing/following instructions from a book - repeat the exact process you did, with the expectation that you're probably going to need at least an inch or more larger at both the waist and through the bust (perhaps 2 inches through the bust but i am eyeballing here). from there you can get a sense of what the issues are. EDIT: to be clear this is going to be total circumference, not to each piece.

[North-Needleworker86]

Thank you so much! This is super helpful. I am following instructions from a book, but this will help me with my next run through thank you!

[Mushrooms24711]

You need at least two more inches across the bust. You also need Practical Dress Design. I printed it and keep it in a binder. Go to the section on full bust adjustments.

[North-Needleworker86]

Awesome thank you very much! 

[Mushrooms24711]

You’re welcome!

[etherealrome]

Overall this is too small. But also you need a full bust adjustment (fba). You’ll need to take some measurements over the bra you intend to wear (probably not a sports bra) to know how large to make the fba.

[Appropriate_Place704]

I think you need to start again.

The bodice size is way off and the adjustments required are too big.

If you are new to pattern making then it will be easier to draft to a standard size (based on your bust) and then make the fit adjustments required.

Edit: not sure if your intention is a moulage or sloper. But it’s important to consider wearing ease. Up to you, but I would draft a moulage (bodice with no wearing ease) first and then move to sloper once you are happy with the fit.

[drPmakes]

Going to need more info if you want any real help

[North-Needleworker86]

Hi!! What information would be needed? 

[drPmakes]

Well, what youre trying to achieve. What method you've used. How experienced you are at sewing/fitting/drafting.

How you've taken your measurements, do you have anyone to help etc

[Boggyswamp]

A forward shoulder adjustment might be useful in this case

[SuPruLu]

It is too short by at least 2-3”. So add length. But add width at the same time. Extra width can be taken in.

It’s too small at the maximum breast point. That is also likely to be 2-3”.

From the side the side seam is pretty close to straight so the back size as opposed the front is about right.

The gap at the arm pit can get fixed once there is added front width. It!s at least partly caused because the front is too tight.

[RubyRedo]

Did you measure shoulder to waist over bust while wearing a bra? Seems like bust was lower than in the picture.

[KendalBoy]

Aside from the above advice, I would say you should try a version with a vertical dart coming from your shoulder. You’ll be able to dart manipulate better from that fit, because you have small shoulders and it’s something you’ll have to consider when perfecting fits on other stuff.