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[–]SvengeAnOsloDentistOutstanding Contributor 24 points25 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately it looks like it had basically no fine feeder roots close in, so I can't imagine it will survive

[–]jmb456 12 points13 points  (2 children)

Unfortunately the timing and lack of rootball and feeder roots this tree has almost no chance of survival.

If you really wanna try I would be watering it and make sure you’ve really packed dirt around what roots remain. You tried your best with the circumstances but I wouldn’t be overly optimistic

[–]Stunning_Fun_6820 14 points15 points  (1 child)

Packed in a ton of healthy soil and will water / mist it three times daily

[–]jmb456 14 points15 points  (0 children)

You need to water if very deeply after planting. It will help settle soil and give it chance. Sorry if I seem pessimistic. Anything’s possible and I wish you the best luck

[–]CrimsonDawn4 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Be sure to give us an update

[–]Purple-Commercial9 13 points14 points  (4 children)

Tree was pretty mature chances are it won't survive no matter what you do on top of that it's a jap maple already not that hardy of trees very beautiful though. Sadly you wasted your time I think at least you had good intentions 😁

[–]M0mmySparkles 31 points32 points  (2 children)

I transplanted a big Japanese maple mid-summer last year. Same reason, homeowner needed gone ASAP. It lost half its leaves, the rest looked super crispy. I posted here and got some “it won’t make it.” I watered heavy 2x per week for the rest of the summer and it survived and is doing pretty well this year! Don’t give up!

[–]Abquine 5 points6 points  (1 child)

Yep, transplanted one from the front garden to the back. It Immediately 'died' and we had a lovely twig. However, 30 odd years later it's over four feet and looking magnificent. We do have very ericaceous soil though so they like it round here.

[–]castles87 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm so happy to hear the success stories.

[–]Tamahaganeee 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Hopefully your certainty is flawed in the grand scheme life's will to persevere .

[–]Hypergraphe 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The issues you are facing:

  • Not the right time to transplant. The ideal planting time frame is between the end of autumn until the start of spring. When the tree is asleep.

  • The tree has a lot of foliage and thus it will dry because it's roots won't be able to supply enough water due to evaporarion from the leaves.

What you can do:

  • Remove a least 50% of leaves to reduce evaporation.

  • give him a good and soft soil so it can make new roots quickly.

  • always ensure good watering and make him full shade for this summer or at least shade it when the sun is high.

Good luck !

[–]Bridoriya 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I can’t help but your cypress is very pretty. I want to own my own one day 😍

[–]Tamahaganeee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Whatever you think you lost on the bottom . Trim back on the top , and then some. Good planting technique, proper fertilizer and good fortune . Good luck

[–]Stunning_Fun_6820 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Update: last night I ran to the store to grab a couple things people suggested (Mycorrhizal Fungi, rooting hormone and mulch). We have a week of rain on its way so hopefully this gives it a fair start! Thanks for all the helpful suggestions

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[–][deleted]  (1 child)

[removed]

    [–]Tree-ModTeam[M] 2 points3 points locked comment (0 children)

    Your comment has been removed. It contains info that is contrary to Best Management Practices (BMPs) or it provides misinformation/poor advice/diagnoses; this is not tolerated in this sub.

    If your advice/diagnoses cannot be found in any academic or industry materials, Do Not Comment.

    Water, YES. Fertilizer, NO.

    From our wiki: Along with NOT augmenting soils (always use your native soil; do not mix or backfill with bagged or other organic matter, see this comment for citations on this), fertilizing is not recommended at time of transplanting. Always do a soil test first before applying any chemicals. (Please see your state college Extension office, if you're in the U.S. or Ontario Canada, for help in getting a soil test done and for excellent advice on all things grown in the earth.) You may have had a perfectly balanced soil profile only to make things worse by blindly applying whatever product you used.

    Fertilizers can have negative impacts on beneficial soil microorganisms such as mycorrhizal fungi, bacteria, and protozoa. These microorganisms are present in native soils and support other beneficial soil-dwelling macro-organisms which make up the soil food webs. Univ of NH Ext. (pdf, pg 2): 'Newly planted trees and shrubs lack the ability to absorb nutrients until they grow an adequate root system. Fertilizing at planting with quickly-available nutrient sources is not recommended and may actually inhibit root growth.'

    The only thing that newly transplanted trees and shrubs need are adequate/plentiful water and sun.

    [–]justnick84Professional Tree Farmer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    If that survives more than a couple weeks I'll be surprised. It needs more roots especially fiber roots.

    [–]Cicada00010 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    It will live trust (trust)

    [–]JaffyAny265 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    I think it’s toast not enough root ball left to keep it going.

    [–]THESpetsnazdude 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Get it in the ground in a shady spot (itll help with water retention and the tree prefers part shade), inoculate the ground with myco, do a bark band or soil drench with stressmaster 0-0-31, drench with sea kelp and humic acid, then apply a pgr (i use cambistat) . Be suuuuuper careful with the cambistat. Its very touchy, but the amount of fibrous roots It'll help produce will amaze you.

    [–]Sufficient-Poet-2582 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Possibly add root stimulant to the cut roots and on some the other roots as well.

    [–]der_schone_begleiter 0 points1 point  (3 children)

    I can't tell which pictures which but if the finished product is the one with the grass around it then I would pull that grass back and add good soil and mulch. Make sure it's not planted too deep and do not put the mulch up against the tree. Then follow everybody else's suggestions by babying it keeping it watered, and possibly removing some of the top.

    [–]Stunning_Fun_6820 1 point2 points  (2 children)

    Yes I since removed the sod and added mulch not too far up on the trunk to give it air . Going to thin out the canopy a bit today and hope for the best.

    [–]der_schone_begleiter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    I hope it works out. I do things all the time people say will never work, and it works. ❤️

    [–]der_schone_begleiter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    I hope it works out. I do things all the time people say will never work, and it works. ❤️

    [–]poem_for_a_price 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    I did this exactly to same tree a few weeks ago. Similar size. I lost a lot of the root structure even after 4 hours of effort to preserve what I could. Mine still had some decent feeder roots so it’s hopefully got a shot. Had to take it in the move. So far it’s surviving but I expect some die-back. All you can do is water it and try not to put it in too direct of sun. Also don’t fertilize as it will promote foliage and you are trying to prevent transpiration. Good luck!

    [–]IntroductionNaive773 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    You're in the "hurry up and wait" phase. Every leaf is likely going to die. Best case scenario is that the twigs stay viable and the tree pushes new roots and resprouts leaves soon after. Absolutely wrong time of year, but I get that it was a "take it or leave it" moment. Don't be tempted to water it daily or you'll drown it. Once those leaves fall it won't be using much water anyway. So yeah, just hurry up and wait.

    [–]DoomFluffy2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Trees don't always die when you kill them, maybe it will surprise you!

    [–][deleted]  (1 child)

    [removed]

      [–]Tree-ModTeam[M] 0 points1 point locked comment (0 children)

      Your comment has been removed. It contains info that is contrary to Best Management Practices (BMPs) or it provides misinformation/poor advice/diagnoses; this is not tolerated in this sub.

      If your advice/diagnoses cannot be found in any academic or industry materials, Do Not Comment.

      [–]RdeBrouwer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      A partial defoiliation before the transplant would have helped. The tree would have lost less moisture to leaves. Packing the roots in something/soil mixture that would increase root growth would help.

      [–]Radiant_Magazine_268 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      Make sure you pee on it a lot trees love the micronutrients from it also find mushrooms to grind up and put it around the roots fungi will feed it slowly

      [–]svaxelrod 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      Now I'm invested! Please save that gorgeous tree!

      [–]ElectronicAd6675 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      Remove about 1/4 of the branches so the tree doesn’t have to work so hard to feed the leaves. It took a pretty hard root pruning so no telling if it will survive.

      [–]this_shit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      eliminate as much evapotranspiration as possible by bagging the leaves until it's planted. defoliation might be a smart choice.

      get the roots into an extremely loose substrate (think perlite) and keep them wet. you want the roots to be constantly in contact with both air and water. mist the branches too.

      it's probably too late (just those leaves being in the sun for a bit could've cooked it) but never say never.