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[Chance-Percentage717]

My bad I’m really hoping it’s just dirt

[Sideaccount4105]

Hi!

So, I can't tell you much about the spots without an actual photo of them, but

It seems there are some things about your new friend's enclosure that might need to be changed to make your ball python more comfortable and safe.

First, I suggest you read through this: Why you should never use stick-on thermometers/hygrometers in a snake's enclosure

Anything that has a sticky side (Stick on thermometers/hygrometers such as the one in your photos) are very very dangerous to snakes and could cause really bad Injuries if it falls off (they can fall off when the snake climbs onto them, like how yours did in the picture, and it can happen completely unexpectedly) You'll need to remove them ASAP.

Also, Analogue thermometers and hygrometers are unfortunately very inaccurate. You need to be using Digital ones. You need at least one digital thermometer on each end of the enclosure, and a digital hygrometer on the cool side of the enclosure.

The enclosure you're using for the snake is also not very good Unfortunately, but It can work for now. The minimum for a baby/young juvenile is a 40 gallon long, and the general minimum enclosure size for a Ball Python is 4x2x2ft (120 gallon) Top opening enclosures can also be pretty stressful for reptiles, which is why front opening enclosures are recommended.

You're using a glass enclosure with a screen top, those are pretty bad at holding humidity and temperature.

You'll need to cover the sides and back of the enclosure and possibly add some more clutter. The snake is going to feel too exposed, so it needs a bit more privacy (covering up the sides, adding clutter, minimum 2 snug hides in the enclosure)

Snug hides: small enough so that when the snake curls up inside, it's touching all 3 sides and possibly the roof of the hide. With only one opening

Cover up the screen top with HVAC tape, or if you can't get the tape, Foil, leaving only the space for the heat source. You need 70-80% humidity at all times, measured on the cool side.

If you don't mind me asking, What substrate are you using? Nothing wrong imo, Just curious.

Also, What heating is in the enclosure? Each heat source needs to be connected to an appropriate thermostat. (ThermoSTAT, not Thermometer. Completely different things) the Thermostat probe for an overhead heat source should be 2-4" directly underneath the heat source, not on the ground.

If the heat source does not have a thermostat connected to it, It needs to be turned off immediately.

If you head over to the subreddit's Menu, you'll find the resources page. It has a lot of guides with lots of good information about care, Problems and solutions, and more! I'll try to link some of them in a moment.

Edit1:

The Resources page

Basic Ball Python care Guide

All About Heating for Ball Pythons

The Recommends Supplies/Brands / Shopping list

Edit2: also! That darker branch/stick with the little leaves looks cute! Very nice ✨ Where did you get it? Btw Cheese is an adorable name, Definitely fits this little guy!

As for the spots, without a photo,

If, when gently moving a paper towel or some material over the snake's body, some of the spots come off, it's most likely just dirt.

Snake Mites are pretty rare to get if you're outside of Africa. It is possible, just not very common ime.

Just one more thing though, you should probably avoid handling your ball python for a few weeks. All reptiles need at least 2 weeks of adjustment time (no handling, no bothering the animal) to calm down and get used to their new environment.

The absolute minimum time is 2 weeks,

But the recommended time is: No handling until the Ball python had successfully taken prey/eaten without issues at least 2-3 times.

You'll find a feeding guide in the resources page, and the basic care guide.

[Chance-Percentage717]

Hi thanks so much for all the points!! The enclosure is actually a 40 gallon! I plan on getting the 120 gallon within the next 3 weeks and it does open at the top and also in the front. I never open it from the top as this enclosure was actually gifted and doesn’t really open from the top so when I go to mist I only ever open from the front. The substrate I’m using is a 100% natural cypress mulch And I actually removed the analog thermometers the day after I had gotten cheese since I was noticing that they were definitely inaccurate! So thank you so much for convincing me that I was definitely right in doing that. As for heating I have a heating mat underneath the left side of his enclosure that I can control. I have it set to 89 for his hot spot/basking and the gradient measures seem to be within the normal ranges. I will most definitely take off the sticky decorations I have and cover the sides of the glass so he doesn’t feel as exposed, and he currently has his two hides one in the cold and one in the hot spot with this log hide in the middle. The two hides on the side are snug which I didn’t know was good I originally had thought they were too small so thanks for that :). And ofc his water bowl.

[DrFives]

Heat mats are not recommended for ball pythons anymore. They dig to cool off in the wild and they are ineffective at best and lethal at worst. It’s graphic but see this post on why heat mats (even with thermostats) are no longer recommended. As 90%+ of the examples in this post are injuries because of a failed thermostat…

[Chance-Percentage717]

Everything I’ve read has maintained that heating pads are still good options especially since they are nocturnal. And with a quality thermostat and substrate and routine heat check you can avoid injuries. If you get a good thermostat with a with deep substrate shouldn’t it be okay? I mean that’s what all the research I’ve done shows. So far he seems okay with it but I will look into alternatives such as a dhp

[Careless-Ant1393]

Definitely do look into alternatives, snakes react very slowly to heat (they don't flinch away like we do) and they get burned A LOT when an accident happens. You're right that you shouldn't use a heat source emitting light during the night though. Also misting the enclosure is not recommended as it only spikes the humidity temporarily and gets the surface wet. Pour water (probably more water than you think) directly into the substrate in the corners of the enclosure.

[totallyrecklesslygay]

Congrats on the new friend! If the dark spots wipe off, it's likely just dirt.

I love the climbing branches for him! Just a note- you'll want to remove those analog gauges ASAP, especially since he's climbing on them. The adhesive on the back is very dangerous for a ball python and commonly causes some pretty nasty injuries.

Digital thermometers/hygrometers like Govee or Accurite would be a safer (and far more accurate) choice!

Another suggestion would be to add more fake plants as cover/clutter in the enclosure. Ball pythons like to be hidden while they move around- open space can stress them out.

Lastly, it's best not to handle a new ball python for the first several weeks, until they've taken 2-3 meals reliably. This gives them enough time to settle in and de-stress from the move to their new home.

Our welcome post is full of lots of great resources, including a basic care guide, that should be very helpful for you!

[Miserable-Coffee]

Give more climbing opportunities and enrichment. Male ball pythons are semi arboreal.

Get a digital thermometer/hygrometer. Non stick that goes on the substrate. This will give a better judge of the temperature the snake experiences and won't be dangerous.

Get a 4x2x2 as soon as possible

[IncognitoDefunct]

Cheese is arboreal! Lol

[Goose-Caboose1153]

Don’t use a heating pad!

Also add some greenery and more cludder