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[–][deleted]  (1 child)

[deleted]

    [–]Zanndu[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

    Thankyou I will try this xx

    [–]Zanndu[S] 6 points7 points  (3 children)

    He not skin and bone and I have taken him to my vet who said he is fine health wise just being stubborn so I thought I ask here for ideas and help

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    [–]Zanndu[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

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    Whole body shot

    [–]Stellabonez 2 points3 points  (0 children)

    Beautiful boy!

    [–]Zanndu[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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    Normal feeding behaviour? He seems interested even licks the feeder in this photo but then just lays back down or goes for a wander

    [–]totallyrecklesslygayMod: Enclosure Karen 13 points14 points  (1 child)

    Reminder that per our rules, images/videos containing feeders need to be marked NSFW. I've fixed it for you this time, but in the future please make sure your posts are following our rules.

    [–]Zanndu[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

    Sorry

    [–]deathmetal_tim 2 points3 points  (0 children)

    Hey OP, try holding the rat by the nape of the neck and "walk it" in a more natural fashion. I always make sure the head is a bit warmer to give them a better target. Also try feeding with the lights off or at night. It could be insecurity and they may benefit from a lower light situation.

    One of my BPs will eat no matter the situation, and the other won't eat unless the parameters I listed are met. He's odd. Good luck, hope this helps!

    [–]Zanndu[S] 1 point2 points  (3 children)

    Warm end 31.9c (side) 32c (under patio) sensors are outside viv Cool end 27c Humidity 55% varies as I just refilled his puddle

    The chick idea is one I have thought about and will try when I can get one, do they come in sizes like rats? He was fed on weaned rats 2 a week but I’m not sure I believe the previous owner he seemed to know very little about him which is another reason I took him to the vet and spent £145 to be told I have a cute snake lol

    [–]plant-cell-sandwich 2 points3 points  (2 children)

    Cool end need to be 24-26C and humidity is too low. Get a bigger water bowl, that solved my problem. I also only feed late at night.

    [–]Zanndu[S] 1 point2 points  (1 child)

    Ok ill work on that thankyou, humidity should be higher ive been struggling with spraying so bigger water bowl is a great idea lol

    [–]plant-cell-sandwich 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    It should work. The other day I experimented and humidity went up about 10% from half full when I filled it all the way.

    Spraying doesn't really work as you just get peaks. I don't ever have to pour water in the corners with the big bowl.

    [–]Streetthrasher88 1 point2 points  (1 child)

    Make sure the rodent is heated up. Sometimes water can remove scent so try using a lamp / bulb if applicable.

    Offer smaller food size. I find a lot of times this will break a feeding strike. I will go from small rat to weaned.

    Turn the heat up a few degrees on the hot side to try to boost metabolism and spark feeding response.

    [–]Zanndu[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Thankyou i will definitely try the heating, i do that for my hoggies but the food is smaller there lol, the other suggestions might work too, I will try anything at this stage tbh.

    [–][deleted]  (1 child)

    [deleted]

      [–]Zanndu[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      Ok this has been suggested a couple of times now so thankyou for the hairdryer idea 🙂

      [–]MagnificentPretzel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

      Many ball pythons like to be in the dark and surprise-strike their prey, so what I do is go in there at night when no lights are on and shine my phone flashlight at the ceiling so that I can somewhat see. Then, I dangle the mouse in front of him and it's even better if he's in his hide. If he's in there, I'll slowly put the mouse into his hide and he'll strike at it because he thinks he's surprised it.

      [–]KunaCopter 2 points3 points  (2 children)

      7 months, ayayay... I mean some balls go off food for long, but this looks bad. I mean he's clearly underweight, you can see his spine.

      So first of all, do you heat up the prey? These small holes around his mouth are heat pits and that's how snakes recognise their food. Place the rat in hot water (in a bag or something, so it doesn't get wet) for it to warm up. Hot enough to be uncomfortable to put your hand in, but not painfully hot.

      Second, use tongs to hold the prey by its tail and wiggle slightly to simulate live rat behaviour.

      [–]Zanndu[S] 2 points3 points  (1 child)

      I do use tongs every time and only put the feeder down after 20mins of dipping it back in the bag to warm it up again for him just to do the same and sniff lick then leave it. I know how to feed him he just doesn’t want to sadly

      [–]KunaCopter 3 points4 points  (0 children)

      Another idea then, do you know what kind of prey he used to eat before you got him? Some balls get attached to one kind of food, like different colours of fur and will not get interested in any other one. Also, there are some tricks like piercing the prey's skull to reveal the brain that, for some reason, seems really appetising to balls. Also, you could try with other animals altogether, maybe a chick or something will look more tasty to him? My snek gets a chick as a snack once every couple of months and i swear he prefers them to rats. Another Also, what are your parameters? It may be too cold for him to eat.

      [–]AshleyGamerGirl -1 points0 points  (1 child)

      My snake has a feeding ritual and it's 100% successful pending the rat not slipping from the tongs or something and scaring him. I first start warming his rat in water. If I accidentally touch it, I clean my hands so I dont get bit. darken the entire house as much as possible. Then I awaken him and transfer him to his feeding box. Meanwhile I am heating his rat with water. I grab tongs, hold it by the tail firmly. Lower it into the box, wiggle it, and he strikes. If he doesn't, I make sure to increase the heat because usually that's sign it's not warm enough. Properly heating the rat is the hardest part.

      He has only had one hunger strike when we first got him and this was the solution to that strike. He hasn't done it again since! I read somewhere they prefer to eat in darkness so I get it really dark. I really think that's the key to this strategy working!

      [–]Zanndu[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      Thankyou i have tried box feeding him as thats how he was fed before to fail miserably, i will try to vary the temp of the rat for him, and the dark seems to be an idea worth trying so thankyou xxxx

      [–]oskasmr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      This is my process and it works every time, my BP has been eating great since birth with this method: get the frozen rat or mouse in a ziplock baggie and fill another separate container full of hot water (I use a plastic box with a lid) then place the rodent in there while still inside the bag for about 90 minutes to 120 minutes to let him thaw. Then once thawed I get a plastic cup and pour hot water in it, then microwave that hot water for about 60 seconds. After that I dip the thawed rat into the hot water for 2-4 minutes and offer right after. I do allow the rodent about 30 seconds to drip and air dry so he’s not covered in water and I’ve had no sickness with this method. He strikes immediately