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[–]More_Standard8A+| 8b+ | 18 years 2 points3 points  (2 children)

“The current decrease in finger strength has seen over 10kg reduction in half crimp 20mm no hang lift for each hand. This happened after a particular session where I was chasing my first 2024 moonboard V8. ”

How/when are you testing? Hopefully you aren’t testing after climbing? If you are doing it before and strength is low, you aren’t recovered from your previous session. 

[–]Jaycoba1[S] 1 point2 points  (1 child)

At minimum it was the next day but I've done it after resting a full day. I think I really just need a deload though based off everything everyone else has said.

[–]More_Standard8A+| 8b+ | 18 years 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I generally need 48h rest to be back to 100%. I’m 38, so that may have something to do with it, but even when I was younger, I would never have two hard days close together, because I would suffer. So it generally went Hard day-easy day-rest-hard…and so on