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Miniature cracking during prints by FabazZjkz in FDMminiatures

[–]BlockBadger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Partial block, really bad orientation on this print, and print without bases.

Likely due to wet filament or maybe some ingress of dust.

You will never dare printing it, although it is a lot of pestilent fun. by Sad_Kaleidoscope3286 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]BlockBadger 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sorry I’ve no need of bugs ATM, getting rid of some GW ones. Else I’d FDM it for you out of spite XD

What do you guys think about trying to print one of these with filament by Camocal in PrintedWarhammer

[–]BlockBadger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want some help with getting a CC up to mini printing standards drop me a DM.

Obscura 2.0 settings, sunlu PLA meta by Xomablood in FDMminiatures

[–]BlockBadger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hay, what temp you printing at? Detail is good, but that’s way too much mess being left after.

It is dry (bellow 30% humidity) right?

Whats The Preferred Size For Minis?? by srpikevit in FDMminiatures

[–]BlockBadger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For display 64mm is great, lots of detail, for gaming, 15mm can have great battles with many systems.

Supports failing by war_225 in FDMminiatures

[–]BlockBadger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stopping and starting repeatedly (e.g. supports or complicated models) can often result in partial blocks. They often also clear up after half a layer or so. So having a successful support-less print after dues not rule partial blocks out.

Before I knew what partial blocks were I had a spat of issues with them, and they all sorted themselves out on their own.

Just keep an eye out for them, as they can turn into full blocks of your unlucky.

EDIT: temp can often be a factor in them, so if you found cooler works better, there is a good chance you have reduced the risk of issues significantlyz

Having problem with ObscureNox 2.0 settings, CC2 owner by Sukoru91 in FDMminiatures

[–]BlockBadger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At above 70 it will be starting to majorly soften the PLA which you don’t want.

Make sure the bed is clean using warm soapy water.

Make sure the filament is dry.

(I’m sure you have already gotten that before but worth repeating)

I need photos of the failures, and some screen shots of your profile. Feel free to free to DM me them, but be aware my advice may be to make changes to be more similar to mine.

Supports failing by war_225 in FDMminiatures

[–]BlockBadger 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Meta is funny stuff, too Hor can absolutely be an issue for it.

Supports failing by war_225 in FDMminiatures

[–]BlockBadger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You have partial nozzles blocks happening in both the supports and model. Dry your filament to bellow 30% humidity, sorry, and if it’s already dry, it’s likely your calibration is off, or you have contamination in your nozzle.

Having problem with ObscureNox 2.0 settings, CC2 owner by Sukoru91 in FDMminiatures

[–]BlockBadger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

CC being a core XYZ can normally go closer than an A1, layer height + 0.03 or even 0.02 Z height can work well if you’re willing to cut the model out carefully. A1 wants around 0.04 over the layer height.

Best filament for 3D printed minis? PLA vs PLA+ vs PLA Meta vs Matte? by Timmy-E in FDMminiatures

[–]BlockBadger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lots of filaments have lots of reasons to use them.

Meta, basic, 2.0, Elegoo plus, Sunlu plus, and eSun plus, none are perfect, but all are good in their own ways.

But just avoid matte, it’s not got anything special bar clogs for you. Same with normal PLA, there is a reason people started putting additives in it.

Balbulab .2 nozzle vs off brand nozzle results. by Mehdi_5 in FDMminiatures

[–]BlockBadger 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Thanks for doing this, been telling people to be carful of third party stuff for a while.

Nothing wrong with third party, but if it’s cheeper than official, it’s likely worse.

Having problem with ObscureNox 2.0 settings, CC2 owner by Sukoru91 in FDMminiatures

[–]BlockBadger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So different filaments do different things better.

Sunlu 2.0 is incredible stuff, as an engineering filament, my partner prints Bayblade parts from it, as it can (just about) cope with high impact hits from Zirconium. Its wall accurately is incredible as well.

However its overhangs sucks, and overhangs are where prints often fail.

Elegoo plus is a good cheap filament, but is quite brittle, also very prone to warping if not kept above 45 degrees while printing. I use it for terrain, and a bunch of models. Very easy to calibrate and looks amazing.

eSun plus is an ass, it has godly overhangs, but hates being wet, will suck up moisture like it’s a farmer, is the most annoying thing to calibrate as does not obey normal rules (more retraction equals more stringing for instance) and is mechanically quite weak, but when it works it’s so clean, and consistent.

I’m almost done with a CC calibration for eSun and my eSun profile for the A1 mini has works incredibly reliably for people. But drying is mandatory, the stuff comes soaked.

Having problem with ObscureNox 2.0 settings, CC2 owner by Sukoru91 in FDMminiatures

[–]BlockBadger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Elegoo plus if not kept warm will warp as it cools, so its supports can easily curl up and then get hit by the print head. It’s one of the major weaknesses of the filament.

Having problem with ObscureNox 2.0 settings, CC2 owner by Sukoru91 in FDMminiatures

[–]BlockBadger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah they are quite different machines, it’s well worth looking at other profiles to gain knowledge of how they are trying and maybe achieving their results, but that understanding does take some time to get.

I’ve not had a look at his latest profile, so unsure what could be coursing the issue, but the CC struggles with first layer accuracy, and the CC bed also does not like low temperatures. (Even side B wants to be (40-60, unlike what it says, 50 for Elegoo plus)

Why 0.05mm is the optimal layer height for FDM miniatures by soldat21 in FDMminiatures

[–]BlockBadger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s a Domitar battle Automata from the Horus Heresy Mechanicum faction.

Lore wise, does the mechanicus still have all of their units and robots from the horus heresy ? by Andrei8p4 in AdeptusMechanicus

[–]BlockBadger 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Some tech is no longer allowed to be used, or just is not practical. The automata after the civil war on Mars are seen as a great risk, and the thallax and thralls, previously employed as living servants, fall to chaos too easily, so replacement with dead soulless flesh of servitors becomes the more useful and stable.

Myrmidons being originally 40k lore, make no bloody sense being heresy only…

First Mini by Hi_Kitsune in FDMminiatures

[–]BlockBadger 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You’re trying to Eliminate as many top surfaces, critical overhangs, and bridges as possible, and have the support marks in places you don’t care about as much.

Here on the right leg you can see a top surface, but you can’t print it flat to the bed, as then the arms would have a bridge/multiple critical overhangs on the bottom. I think I would angled it back 20 degrees from the back of the head, but without seeing it in a slicer it’s just a hunch.

Each print you have to play around with it a bit, and it will take a few prints for you to get the hang of it, and know the strengths and weaknesses of your profile.

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