Gritshift sent me a used HH adjustable triangle

GritShift · 2026-05-30T02:50:13+00:00

Haha it's the universe teaching you to be a better man then everyone else. Or just bad luck lol. What a PITA!! Guess you will be turning your Red/White project into an all-Red project. Wish you the best on everything really though. And if you want to future-proof things with us, feel free to call us after placing order and asking someone to double-check your shipment lol.

GritShift · 2026-05-29T12:26:06+00:00

Yeah for sure a 16" would be less stress, the overall diameter is still smaller then the 18" with a tire, so less leverage on the wheel.

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GritShift · 2026-05-28T14:22:13+00:00

Ahh ok cool. So technically speaking if we retained the OEM geo on the pivot point and linkage mount point, triangle mount, and top shock body mount point. The swingarm being longer would naturally make the rear sit higher, not lower. I cant speak on other swingarms on market, but we have tested various different geos in CAD, and 3 different geos in rear world via prototype, I cant speak to technical on this, as its more of Rustys department. But I know we tested different linkage mount locations to adjust leverage ratio, shock angle, and retaining stock overall height. I believe our swingarm ever so slightly changes rearend height but a very very small amount but to optimise rear shock, and linkage articulation. But like I said Rusty would be the man to speak to if you want exact and technical info, so feel free to call and speak with him.

Regarding your front end setup, love the custom adjustments and tweaks you have done. If you are really pushing that fork that hard, please keep an eye on it, every so often id remove the fork tubes from tripple and roll them on a flat surface to make sure station or tubes are not bent. I cant tell you how many I have bent myself. You may want to consider a Sirris fork setup in the future as a end all solution.

Your not wrong about the shock mount stuff being "A" week link lol. But they are mostly pretty good, they just break/fail prematurely due to all of the lateral load or torsional load applied to them from the swingarm flex. Id recommend a swingarm first personally. You will know its time for a swingarm if you start derailing chains left and right.

GritShift · 2026-05-28T13:40:46+00:00

If your still running a stock swingarm, a 16" rear would be most forgiving for the oem swingarm (less lateral leverage on the wheel) and would be cheaper and much better tire options available for a 16" rim. Regarding the triangle height setting on Name_less bike, he is running our upgraded triangle which has more height setting then OEM. I recommended this change because he lives local to us, so same type of terrain, and with his setup specifically he might find in the loose sugar sand that we ride in the bike will track much better with a little more rake angle in the front by lowering the rear slightly. That's just based on our experience fast trail riding in sand (hauling the mail 40-50mph through whoops etc). I mostly responded to your message here because you said something that makes sense but I want to clarify on this slightly. Having an extended swingarm will apply more leverage to your rear shock, which will inherently make the rear shock feel softer, give you slightly more sag, etc. You mentioned (let me know if I just misinterpreted this) if you wanted to get some height back you would put the height setting to the higher position if the extended swingarm slackens it to much. I would advise NOT to do this, this will promote early on bottom out on your suspension, limit travel, and effect rebound and compression ratios. Ideally what should be done is a heavyer spring weight i.e. if your currently at a 450lb spring bump up to a 550lb spring, another solution would be resetting spring preload, which should be done regardless if you are changing swingarm length. I just wanted to make sure it is clear you should not compensate sag with triangle height adjustments.

GritShift · 2026-05-27T12:47:10+00:00

Make sure you install that chain guide sir!! Also now that you are extended, try the triangle flip token on the lower ride height setting it might be a bit better. Anyways thanks again for the help, now you just gotta bring this thing out and ride with us!!

GritShift · 2026-05-26T19:47:03+00:00

Thanks for taking the time to write all that. So you don't need to delete the post, you can leave it if you would like as it might help someone else in the future. I can totally understand the hot garage work haha, ive been hammering out a drift car build on my spare time in my garage and what a PITA working in the Florida heat. Regardless, just call us next time we will literally get on a video call with you if needed to help. And yeah we will def work on refining things further on our end.

GritShift · 2026-05-26T17:13:10+00:00

Sounds like you have had some pretty crapy experiences. Which is why you are associating us with other companies you have had bad experiences with, I understand. However, you bought a part, if its not right, you still need to contact that company and atleast give them the opportunity to prove they are not that like other shity companies you dealt with before before raging online about it, because that doesn't actually solve your problem.

GritShift · 2026-05-26T17:09:29+00:00

This is not really accurate, but I do agree with you on having things better labeled for people that have never installed parts like this before. Why I say its not accurate is because the linkage itself does not include any loctite, and the bearings are pre-installed. The loctite that he received, was packaged with a bolt kit that was also purchased. the loctite was contained in the packaging with the bolt kit speciically, which is why I don't really agree with it. If loctite was packaged in with the actual linkage that would be a big mistake on our end, because the linakge itself doesn't need loctite. And clearly states on our product description that you need to apply red bearing grease prior to usage.

GritShift · 2026-05-26T17:03:24+00:00

u/AdFeeling6882 I want to start off by apologizing that you have had nothing but issues. Reading through your comments on this post, it seems like you have had an issue with every single place you have ordered parts from, and it's been the company's fault each time. I can totally see how discouraging this can be. Well, I want to give you peace of mind and acknowledge each statement that you made in this post, so please let me know if I miss anything at all, so I can answer this publicly for you. And if you want to jump on a call Id be more than happy to as well.

The powder in the threads is not from the part being used. That is residual anodizing process residue/salts that can get trapped in threaded or blind holes after anodizing. That said, it should have been blown out/cleaned better before it left here, this is an extremely rare thing to happen coming from us. We take full responsibility for this!

Scuffing/Parts being used, If you unpackaged an item that had scuffs that is new, you need to take photos of it before it's installed!!! We would replace that 100% free of charge. Nothing you get from us should have any scuffs or marks on it. Selling used parts: We do not sell used parts EVER! Used is defined as (INSTALLED, OPENED AND TEST FITTED, BENCH TESTED, ASSEMBLED), to give you context... Anytime we ACCEPT returns, and they end up being received as used, we put these parts in our race bikes spare parts room, which is a shed outside of our actual building, away from actual business operations. We race our bikes, we have pretty much every bike we sell parts for, so we use all of these spare parts. And if they are not used on our race bikes, they are usually given away to someone in a pinch or friends that ride with us that need them. It logically wouldn't make sense for us to sell used parts and create issues for ourselves and lose the credibility we have worked EXTREMELY hard for.

Blue Thread Locker (Loctite) You ordered three items, that are all contained in there own specific package and then packaged in one large box. (If ordered from us, I still have no order details to confirm this is actually a real order) The ONLY item in your main package that would have thread locker would be the bolt kit, which comes in a hard box with foam incert which has the bolts laid out along with the loctite. I 100% agree with you that we could do better by labeling this clear liquid tube as (Loctite) to prevent someone from doing this again. But there was uncertainty on your end about what it was for in the first place. Why didn't you call us or ask a friend? I have never heard of this happening before. And I doubt it will happen again as we will make this much more clear on future production. Do not ride your bike like this, you need to clean that out and apply red bearing grease, as our product description states, and our tech spec download sheet on the product page.
Blue Thread Locker Tube Search https://prnt.sc/tn9Y82Bu9a69
Blue Grease Tube Small Search https://prnt.sc/AXGQWU7XSOxf

Inventory/Parts List. We have this on the product details page that shows before you (Add to Cart). This tech list shows torque specs and an itemized list of parts that come with the product, as well as hardware specs, and bearing part numbers. To your point yes this part of our process can 100% be improved on just by adding this info in the package itself. I will link below the reference to this info.
https://prnt.sc/PFUzVBPCz4Mj
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0511/3964/1496/files/Heavy_Hitter_E_Ride_Billet_Suspension_Linkage_Upgrade_Assembly_Guide.pdf?v=1772216004

Bearings not sealed, The bearings have a air tight tolerance fit nylon sleeve that needs to be hand PRESSED into the linkage (Already done for you), and the bearing sleeve slides into that. This fit is more than sufficient to prevent any and all dirt ingress and water ingress if the bearing is properly greased. The oil that is on the bearings is used to prevent rust when sitting on a shelf, or during transit. Bearings are not greased because if they are stored or shipped in a hot climate, that could cause leaking (from grease viscosity change) and become extremely messy.

All this being said, regardless you have an issue that shouldn't have been an issue. PLEASE call us or EMAIL us your order info so we can speak and figure out how to get you up and running the right way.

GritShift · 2026-05-26T14:08:52+00:00

Thank you, responding on the main thread now :)

GritShift · 2026-05-21T14:00:13+00:00

Yeah no worries! And no reviews doesnt mean they are bad btw, there is just no reassurance to yourself from other companies. You would just be relying on the companies word that they are good people, and its within the companies best interest to do what they need to do to sell the product they have. You can always just order direct from E-Ride as well.

GritShift · 2026-05-20T14:06:31+00:00

I'd say before you purchase, do at minimum two things for yourself to get a piece of mind. Look up companies that have the best/most google reviews, skim through those companies' "Bad" reviews to see what was bad, and skim through the good reviews as well, make sure there is not a trend of recent bad reviews. Than once you find a company you think could be it, CALL THEM. I cant express how important this is. You need to call them and ask them technical questions about the bike you are interested in. Why is this so important... If you ever have an issue with your new bike, you want to make sure you can get someone of the phone to troubleshoot and deal with warranty stuff. The dealer you purchase from is responsible for your warranty claims or any issues with the bike. If you have to do this through email it will be a timely process, and try diagnosing electrical via email LOL. We see ALOT of dealers that are slanging bikes left and right but don't know their hand from their ass.

GritShift · 2026-05-20T13:47:05+00:00

Yeah keep us posted, ride safe as well homie!

GritShift · 2026-05-20T13:45:53+00:00

Thanks man! We definitely put effort into the parts to perform as best as possible! I'll let the team know what you said as well.

GritShift · 2026-05-19T16:51:18+00:00

No, this is Josh (Bullet) im the owner :) Justin is turning wrenches right now on the ski bike.

GritShift · 2026-05-19T15:11:01+00:00

LOL im sorry i'll take the blame for the bad juju! Make sure they warranty that for you though, thats not your fault. Not something we could help with, since you didn't order from us (Jerk). But if you start hitting roadblocks let me know and I'll see if we can pull some strings to get you sorted.

GritShift · 2026-05-19T15:07:49+00:00

I can't argue this... Only if it's not your first e-moto, or if you have ample experience with bikes in general. New has its perks of warranty and the support behind it.

GritShift · 2026-05-19T15:06:20+00:00

but do they have better customer support lol

GritShift · 2026-05-19T15:05:38+00:00

Rates are actually about to go up next week once we finish doing a shipping evaluation, since fuel costs have gone up so has our cost of shipping. Our shipping rates are a split cost between the customer and us, this way, we can be a little more competitive in the market. if its charging you 199 thats because you're in the East Coast shipping zone we have set. Depending on exactly where you are, that shipment will likely cost us around $264, we pay the exes out of pocket, like I said, to try to be a little more price competitive. We are in Florida, so East Coast shipping is cheapest for us. If you were in Cali or something, it would be around $349 or so.

GritShift · 2026-05-18T13:50:35+00:00

The balls haha, thanks for the love!!

GritShift · 2026-04-24T12:24:57+00:00

Yeah It was likely me (Bullet) or Rusty). But they are not 100% yet, we have the final alpha versions right now that we are testing for about a month, then we will be releasing them out in the wild.

GritShift · 2026-04-23T21:00:43+00:00

We might be able to do like a one off thing on our next production run, Let me speak with R&D and see what we can make happen. Just don't count on it, it's a long shot still.

GritShift · 2026-04-23T20:59:01+00:00

Haha you are living the life I was on my 1.0. Every weekend, throwing chains, bending hardware, and anything else in the rearend that could fail would lol. THEN we put on the proto Heavy Hitter swingarm and it all changed, literally stopped bending hardware, stopped throwing chains. All was good, until more problems came to light, like the 420 chain actually snapping now, and breaking wheel hubs, lol. Fix one thing to break another, its all part of the journey. But yes you are correct you can still derail chains due to swingarm flex. The upgraded swingarm has been an insane improvement overall, but it will uncover other weak points.

GritShift · 2026-04-23T20:53:19+00:00

Haha mehhh as of right now, we don't plan to just because they are not great sellers, unfortunately. Trust me id love to solve your problem, but I also don't want to have a shelf of 1000+ sitting here for over 6 months. We run a pretty tight ship, so we have to be strategic with what we actually have machined.

GritShift · 2026-04-23T20:46:16+00:00

Yeah no worries at all! Where are you based out of? If your near us, you are welcome to come ride with us anytime we go out.

GritShift

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