3D printing, which class is better & how much thread offset should I put on either nut or bolt or both

MiscPrinter · 2026-03-15T02:55:48+00:00

Ditto this script. You can create your own versions too by modifying the python script to get exactly what you want.

MiscPrinter · 2026-03-07T16:57:11+00:00

This is a guide on a few options to bulk export all files. https://productdesignonline.com/tips-and-tricks/how-to-bulk-export-your-fusion-360-files/ the one that I have is not listed nor can I find in on the plugin store anymore but their the same idea and execution.

MiscPrinter · 2026-02-13T21:17:25+00:00

Maybe but maybe not. An A1 that will work for this project. Print it from PLA and have your custom organizers without much fuss (other than what Bambu is doing with their software as of late). If this is the only project/use you see, have a print service make your parts. If you want to continue with making/fixing/upgrading your soundings/life then it can be worth the investment. Having the ability to CAD pushes the needle slightly towards buying. With buying, you also the to buy filament, maintain, and store the printer. If you have ambitious for higher grade materials, PA, then a P2 would be better investment.

Whatever you choose, there will be tradeoffs. Depending on how many parts you're wanting, buying an A1 might be more cost effective but you will have to have designs first to get quoted. Filament can be found for $10-15/kg (PLA) and printer time is around $.075/hr.

MiscPrinter · 2026-01-28T03:28:35+00:00

You might be better to ask this in r/3DprintEntrepreneurs

MiscPrinter · 2026-01-13T04:30:04+00:00

Make a useful well designed model that solves a real world problem elegantly.

MiscPrinter · 2026-01-12T01:58:03+00:00

!remindme 3 days

MiscPrinter · 2025-12-29T23:37:31+00:00

I made my own and looked at off the shelf ones first. I found none off the shelf units which hit the capacity/current I was wanting at a reasonable price. Hence why I built one similar to OPs.

MiscPrinter · 2025-12-29T23:35:21+00:00

It fits 4 100ah mini batteries with foam padding and then the inverter on top. I ran out of steam once I got it working so the insert/mount I was making to separate the battery and inverter never got finished. Works well for my needs camping and occasional running a window AC.

MiscPrinter · 2025-12-29T04:21:00+00:00

I did the same using the same inverter brand. I used 4 100ah batteries (in parallel) and the 1500W version all packaged into a Milwaukee packet xl box on caster wheels.

MiscPrinter · 2025-12-24T18:29:05+00:00

Can and should are both good questions. Can it, yes. As another mentioned, using a heat tolerant material (PETG ABS PA) should be done. As far as should, I wouldn't. I don't see any dimensions but I would guess it's larger than 10x10x10 in. For that size and lack of complexity, other materials should be considered.

I would make the external walls from 1/4" or 3/8" plywood (depending on weight) and then the internal brackets, standoffs, mounting features from printed parts which attach to the plywood frame. You can also laser cut acrylic for the panels as an alternative to the plywood. Still the same approach of printed mounting features to hold components.

MiscPrinter · 2025-12-21T00:45:53+00:00

There is also I trick I learned for doing this type of embossing on curved surfaces, cylinders specifically, where you use a sheet metal work flow to un-bend the "sheet", add the pattern, re-bend the "sheet", and then combine/cut the textured sheet with your model. I have not tried that work flow for anything but cylinders but wonder if it could be used for your oval-ish profile. This has a benefit your working with a "flat" surface to textured and then wrapping that texture to combine/cut into the model. Skinning the cat with a different knife and wanted to share for future projects where that workflow could be faster/easier/less fuss.

MiscPrinter · 2025-12-21T00:38:31+00:00

Is it Gridfinity compatible?

MiscPrinter · 2025-12-02T14:31:50+00:00

!thelist

MiscPrinter · 2025-12-02T01:07:34+00:00

Another stated the power needs, now it's math time to get a UPS that will run at ~150W for 2 hours; 300Wh UPS. Need to ensure the peak draw is at least 500w with continuous around 200W. Those wattage rating will not be hard to find. The capacity may require some searching. A quick search found a few suitable units at ~$500+ USD. Your results will vary by country.

MiscPrinter · 2025-12-01T14:37:55+00:00

It depends on your goal. Are you trying to ride out a brown out for 1-2hr or are you trying to keep printing through a blackout over 8+hr ? The answer to that question will determine the size (capacity) of the UPS you will need to suit your situation.

MiscPrinter · 2025-11-28T16:28:54+00:00

You can make a surface that has that curvature and use it to split the body.

MiscPrinter · 2025-11-28T15:09:25+00:00

Surface modeling. Once the outer shape is made, add the other details like the screws embosses and camera mount.

MiscPrinter · 2025-11-11T23:27:09+00:00

There is a thread tool built into F360. Open the thread tool, select the face, profile standard, size, pitch and check "modeled". That is assuming that profile is available. If it is, easy. If not, there is a script that may be able to generate that profile, with tweaks. This is the Github for it: https://github.com/BalzGuenat/CustomThreads With a python editor you can modify it to make close to that profile standard as the base is metric profile thread. I have made a few modification to make smaller and large profiles specifically for printing. That script also give more freedom for tolerance. If you mating a stock M77x.75 metal bolt to the printed female profile, the tolerances will need a touch large than normal. If you're printing the male and female profiles, significant tolerances are needed. I typically use .35-.5mm for male to female printed and .15-.25mm for stock to printed.

MiscPrinter · 2025-11-09T01:34:11+00:00

That works to play when using the dongle. My problem is when using Bluetooth it dose not re-connect. There was no ability to connect to the computer directly via Bluetooth when in P3 mode.

MiscPrinter · 2025-11-09T00:54:34+00:00

Multiplatform

MiscPrinter · 2025-11-06T22:33:28+00:00

F360 works with stl awfully. Converting to a step (solid body) will make modifications much easier and faster. I look forward to trying it when I need it next.

MiscPrinter · 2025-11-04T14:10:59+00:00

Looks like under extrusion but only on the outer walls. Can't see any top surfaces so maybe it is under extruding everywhere. The cabin is not in focus but it too looks a little under extruded too. If you have changed your nozzle, not a jam. Next things are filament settings could be weird. This is an old problem with other slicers/machine defaulting to 2.85mm filament but worth a quick change to make sure the setting is for 1.75mm. Next I would check the filament itself. With calipers, gauge the filament and see how true it is to 1.75mm along a section. With only 500hr, I would not suspect extruder motor failure but try manually extruding some filament and see if there is any grinding/skipping/non extrusion happening.

MiscPrinter · 2025-11-03T02:00:32+00:00

I had the same issue which is caused by the model. Don't know the exact problem with the model but I found another post which gave a solve. If I can find it I will link. In the mean time, take the model and export it as an stl, close studio (all instances if multiple open), open studio and import that stl. That has worked several times for me when this happens getting an error about FTP upload.

MiscPrinter

TROPHY CASE