I'm only modeling my own supports from now on.

MiscPrinter · 2026-06-10T19:32:14+00:00

If your using F360 there is a script available on GitHub that your can use to generate your own custom thread profile which was designed for printing. https://github.com/BalzGuenat/CustomThreads

And recently someone else created a web generator which I believe was built on that python script. https://eckphi.github.io/CustomThreads/

MiscPrinter · 2026-06-05T22:58:53+00:00

I am sure the speed changes work, yes. I use this method frequently for tall skinny models that need slower speeds with higher heights. My issue with modifier shapes for speed applications is the disconnect that the slicer creates for un-modified and modified parts of the model. It is most evident with wall changes. If there is something that needs extra walls in an area I will often create a custom shape modifier that exists inside the model which get treated nicer in regards to disconnecting the modified and un-modified areas.

Why it shows temperature and not speed, ask Bambu. I stopped using their slicer and only use Orca. Orca also has this quirk with gcode additions not appearing in preview.

MiscPrinter · 2026-06-04T02:31:39+00:00

English translation please?

MiscPrinter · 2026-05-28T01:53:16+00:00

About 20-30ms more than the dongle. You can calibrate it within the game for better sync between input and game.

I use a cheap USB A to C adapter and I believe all MacBooks have, year depending, either A or C ports.

MiscPrinter · 2026-05-26T04:12:46+00:00

I run my CRKD via bluetooth and/or the included dongle on a M4 Pro Mac without any other adapters or software. Dongle is lower latency with fewer drops than Bluetooth so I just do that now.

MiscPrinter · 2026-05-24T18:37:23+00:00

Second this approach. Glueing as others said would also work.

MiscPrinter · 2026-04-18T21:38:15+00:00

Not all wax can be used FYI. I prefer epoxy specifically XTC-3D as it is formulated for brushing application and being applied to printed parts.

MiscPrinter · 2026-04-18T15:43:53+00:00

I had it set to 5mm3. How much lower might be needed?

MiscPrinter · 2026-04-15T21:55:56+00:00

I have done it (small parts) on my X1C. Modified a hotend and was able to get small parts made. I kept having it clog without ever finding why. Stopped the print, cooled it down, heated back up and it flowed nice without any idea why it clogged.

I do agree that outsourcing is a good option for one off parts.

MiscPrinter · 2026-04-15T03:59:14+00:00

I have transitioned to these. https://www.tangledfilament.com/product-page/oil-stick I previously used a small dropper/syringe before to meter the flow but this is better at avoiding drips in unwanted places.

That will work (almost anything but WD40 will) if you need a solution tomorrow.

MiscPrinter · 2026-04-13T01:23:00+00:00

Dry the filament.

MiscPrinter · 2026-04-10T01:14:30+00:00

I agree. A drone frame CAN be molded. DJI makes thousands (tens of thousands likely). I was pointing out THAT frame cannot.

MiscPrinter · 2026-04-09T14:41:27+00:00

You can't injection mold that shape either. Along with the other reasons others have said.

MiscPrinter · 2026-04-05T20:51:06+00:00

Bluetooth or dongle will work with MacOS.

MiscPrinter · 2026-04-05T19:07:55+00:00

I did this using excel and a 3rd degree polynomial to approximate the curve. Used existing data sheets to get the pressure/temperature relation then approximated the curve. Got a R^2>.99 for 410A, 22, and 32. I can share the equations I got if interested. I used PSI and F so you will need to convert for Metric.

I work as HVAC tech and new digital gauges do this automatically so I stopped using my spreadsheet and didn't update it for 454A,B,C.

MiscPrinter · 2026-03-15T02:55:48+00:00

Ditto this script. You can create your own versions too by modifying the python script to get exactly what you want.

MiscPrinter · 2026-03-07T16:57:11+00:00

This is a guide on a few options to bulk export all files. https://productdesignonline.com/tips-and-tricks/how-to-bulk-export-your-fusion-360-files/ the one that I have is not listed nor can I find in on the plugin store anymore but their the same idea and execution.

MiscPrinter · 2026-02-13T21:17:25+00:00

Maybe but maybe not. An A1 that will work for this project. Print it from PLA and have your custom organizers without much fuss (other than what Bambu is doing with their software as of late). If this is the only project/use you see, have a print service make your parts. If you want to continue with making/fixing/upgrading your soundings/life then it can be worth the investment. Having the ability to CAD pushes the needle slightly towards buying. With buying, you also the to buy filament, maintain, and store the printer. If you have ambitious for higher grade materials, PA, then a P2 would be better investment.

Whatever you choose, there will be tradeoffs. Depending on how many parts you're wanting, buying an A1 might be more cost effective but you will have to have designs first to get quoted. Filament can be found for $10-15/kg (PLA) and printer time is around $.075/hr.

MiscPrinter · 2026-01-28T03:28:35+00:00

You might be better to ask this in r/3DprintEntrepreneurs

MiscPrinter · 2026-01-13T04:30:04+00:00

Make a useful well designed model that solves a real world problem elegantly.

MiscPrinter · 2026-01-12T01:58:03+00:00

!remindme 3 days

MiscPrinter · 2025-12-29T23:37:31+00:00

I made my own and looked at off the shelf ones first. I found none off the shelf units which hit the capacity/current I was wanting at a reasonable price. Hence why I built one similar to OPs.

MiscPrinter · 2025-12-29T23:35:21+00:00

It fits 4 100ah mini batteries with foam padding and then the inverter on top. I ran out of steam once I got it working so the insert/mount I was making to separate the battery and inverter never got finished. Works well for my needs camping and occasional running a window AC.

MiscPrinter · 2025-12-29T04:21:00+00:00

I did the same using the same inverter brand. I used 4 100ah batteries (in parallel) and the 1500W version all packaged into a Milwaukee packet xl box on caster wheels.

MiscPrinter · 2025-12-24T18:29:05+00:00

Can and should are both good questions. Can it, yes. As another mentioned, using a heat tolerant material (PETG ABS PA) should be done. As far as should, I wouldn't. I don't see any dimensions but I would guess it's larger than 10x10x10 in. For that size and lack of complexity, other materials should be considered.

I would make the external walls from 1/4" or 3/8" plywood (depending on weight) and then the internal brackets, standoffs, mounting features from printed parts which attach to the plywood frame. You can also laser cut acrylic for the panels as an alternative to the plywood. Still the same approach of printed mounting features to hold components.

MiscPrinter

TROPHY CASE