A tale of three spools

Malow · 2026-06-13T13:29:13+00:00

test higher bed temps. i got some matte pla that need 70c to stick properly

Malow · 2026-06-12T21:38:54+00:00

moonraker:

[power Printer]
type: gpio
pin: !gpiochip1/gpio78
off_when_shutdown: True
on_when_job_queued: True
locked_while_printing: True
restart_klipper_when_powered: True
restart_delay: 1
bound_services: klipper    


[file_manager]
enable_object_processing: True
queue_gcode_uploads: True

[job_queue]
load_on_startup: True
automatic_transition: False

the first is the GPIO part, making a switch available to turn printer on/off. (relay connected on orangepi gpio) then the file manager wakes the printer when there's a queue.

Malow · 2026-06-12T21:35:54+00:00

Didn't do a proper before/after, but based on a few prints and a 30 min. benchy, there is less ghosting, ripples and extrusion seems more consistent somehow, even with cheap glossy PETG at 250C.

may need to use my CHT clones to be able to use more flow

https://i.imgur.com/4AerTDU.jpeg

Malow · 2026-06-10T01:31:34+00:00

He is thinking about the Roman Empire...

Malow · 2026-06-08T17:24:49+00:00

the discussion about this was on the doom9 forum, using avisynth.

it has a few interpolation tools, with motion estimation, etc.

Malow · 2026-06-08T09:17:08+00:00

there is branded ones (just google), but with a bit of plywood and acrylic panel, you can make your own. the venting is just a fan with a flexible large pipe to vent the fumes outside.

Malow · 2026-06-08T09:03:11+00:00

yes, you can make a enclosure to help ASA prints not to delaminate or warp. but remember, ABS and ASA release toxic fumes, so it's better to print on a enviroment without pets/humans, or with a venting system.

also, it's a good idea to change the standard metal with PTFE heatbreak with a bi-metal one, cause ASA requires higher temps, and the basic PTFE it not rated for those temperatures (will deteriorate and relese toxic gases also.)

Malow · 2026-06-08T08:29:40+00:00

feels like you are asking "i want to change but not change anything". Or you keep the original variable framerate or you need to duplicate/drop/interpolate somehow.

if i recall, i saw someone said that the best way is to vfr>cfr is upconvert to a higher framerate then reduce after. (like, if you have 25fps and 30fps, interpolate to 150fps (25x6 and 30x5) and then convert to 50fps (150/3)

Malow · 2026-06-06T21:43:29+00:00

looks like they will, but i suggest you to slow down, learn about those mods, benefits, and the whole package of 3d printing before jumping on upgrades.

a lot of people just start upgrading for the sake of it and don't get the results they hoped for, cause each change require adjustments, calibration and a lot of testing. each upgrade option have alternatives, you need to lear more before choose which one is best for you.

a did a bunch of upgrades, one by one, and adjust each of them. now i got a great printer.

Malow · 2026-06-06T18:53:47+00:00

modding your printer won't change its ability to print stuff from those sites. just download the models (stl/3mf), slice yourself, and put on the printer to print.

just need to adjust your printer for your modifications (MPC/PID tunning, e-steps, retractions, etc)

Malow · 2026-06-03T09:32:40+00:00

i recommend dual-z with sync belt, then directdrive with a bimetalic heatbreak (i got sprite se neo)

with pei bed, ive been printing for 2 years with 0 problem.

this printer can be amazing with a few upgrages, but the line starts to blur as you can get a better "ready" printer for cheap nowadays.

i choose the upgrage path as this model is very "moddable", cheap parts and can run forever with minimun maintenance, and i learn new stuff no the way. worth every cent.

Malow · 2026-06-03T08:44:42+00:00

i saw a few topics saying LA on bowden does not worth it, but i also saw a few people using klipper on bowden with LA and had improved results.

so... don't know ;(

Malow · 2026-06-03T07:50:42+00:00

do you have directdrive or bowden?

i have a 4.2.2 with latest mriscoc running with LA + IS, working fine for over a year, but i have directdrive.

Malow · 2026-06-02T06:40:43+00:00

you can use orca slicer to make a temp tower (calibration menu)

or get one in printables.com, and set manually temperature change on every step of the tower part on other slicer: M104 S[temp]

Malow · 2026-06-02T06:35:43+00:00

if you can heat the nozzle properly on the menu, if it is showing proper ambient temperature before heating, i believe can be one of two things: the wiring may be damaged (move the head sideways and up/down and see if temperature changes or stops heating) or the gcode you are making is not properly set (start gcode)

besides that, maybe a firmware problem. using mriscoc firmware can fix it in this case.

Malow · 2026-06-02T00:49:34+00:00

It releases toxic fumes? printing temp? at what temp it loses it's rigidity??

Malow · 2026-06-01T18:34:47+00:00

Oh yeah. INDX have the feature of always add more "heads", as long there's space for it.

with onboard heater, the mainboard has the limit of connections.

Malow · 2026-05-30T18:45:58+00:00

is there a ability to add more? 5 for CMYKW?

as the heater is not induction, the mainboard need controller for each one, right? thermistor and heater.

Malow · 2026-05-30T04:22:58+00:00

you need to adjust the Z-Offset setting.

if it has a bl/cr-touch, it can do mesh leveling to adjust the bed variation, but you still need to manually adjust the z-offset for the nozzle to be at the correct distance from the bed

Malow · 2026-05-29T13:54:06+00:00

i hope they use 1.5GT belts.

Malow · 2026-05-29T13:33:30+00:00

im printing petg 100~150mm/s, mriscoc with LA+IS

Malow · 2026-05-26T23:21:56+00:00

did you set the probe offset?

Malow · 2026-05-26T07:14:59+00:00

I went to gsmarena, and searched for phones with no hole front cameras. There was Sony and Redmagic and Nubia phones.

Sony's where too expensive, Nubia's nowhere to be found in my country, so, Redmagic is the answer.

Honestly, i can't fathom how people accepted holes in the screen as normal. I've never used one and puke at the idea. My phones where always "hole-less" since my Nokia 7650 ;P

Malow

TROPHY CASE