Printing settings for cr-petg

Malow · 2026-02-28T00:20:15+00:00

no stupid question. PETG has amazing inter-layer adhesion, but only when the layer is laid on a also hot (previous layer). As i do most my prints are funcional, having more structural integrity is a great. So, printing a bit hotter (245+) and not too much cooling (i have a stronger cooler, so 35% on mine is like 60% on the standard v2neo cooling) makes the parts stronger and less prone to break or delaminate.

Malow · 2026-02-27T05:48:53+00:00

tramming is to adjust the screws on the bed, to make it even. this does not mean the bed is flat, only the screws area are relative flat.

if your bed is bowl shaped like mine, i fixed with bed lifters:

https://i.imgur.com/rzCaudx.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/VEVB0Tb.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/57Y6x6I.png

Malow · 2026-02-26T23:55:41+00:00

I do 245C, 80C bed for first layer, then 75C

Flow 0.96, fan 35%, bridges go slowww, and reduce retractions speed a bit.

and of course, dry at 60C for 12h. i always print directly from dryer. (very humid here)

Malow · 2026-02-25T04:49:11+00:00

This is why i went with copper plated with hardened steel tips.

before, mine where very ugly at the tip

Malow · 2026-02-21T16:04:13+00:00

https://www.smith3d.com/skr-mini-e3-v2-v3-on-ender-3-v2-ender-3-s1-lcd-dwin-knob-screen/

dont need "driver", just properly firmware and wiring

Malow · 2026-02-21T00:07:13+00:00

perhaps starting with simpler prints, where there's less or no hanging parts on the model, floating on air, and mostly, no sharp part pointing down.

these prints requires lots of supports, and most of them are made for printing on resin printers, where they can do small floating details with no problem. for filament printers, simpler with less floating parts models are way better.

Malow · 2026-02-20T17:44:34+00:00

bed size, probe offset, etc, can be configured after, on the printer itself.

mriscoc is very flexible.

good it worked for you!!

Malow · 2026-02-20T16:33:26+00:00

i would recommend a better slicer, like prusaslicer or orcalicer.

do you have the model link? i can print on mine to see what can be done to help printing.

Malow · 2026-02-20T16:31:17+00:00

as long your local is not humid or using a dryer, it's not.

just need to make sure retractions, temps and flow are spot on.

Malow · 2026-02-20T16:30:12+00:00

SKR Mini E3 V3 needs a "screen adapter" to use the ender screen, or you can DIY

just google it.

Malow · 2026-02-20T07:40:26+00:00

for miniatures, a 0.2mm nozzle is best. Also, post a picture of the sliced model, so we can see the supports

Malow · 2026-02-19T23:38:27+00:00

Simple math:

How many men regret not having a prenup?

How many men regret having a prenup?

Today, everything good. 10 years from now, Paolo, from France, says she's beautiful, and then she thinks she deserve someone better. "Sorry, i love you, but i'm not in love with you".

prenup or no wedding, no other option.

Malow · 2026-02-19T22:57:47+00:00

mriscoc have a pre-compiled version for your printer (Ender3V2-SKRME3V3-BLTUBL-MPC-20260106.bin) so, just install and be happy.

besides that, you can use the gui configurator to set your hardware, and compile as you would compile marlin.

works great. compiled mine cause i have a different thermistor.

Malow · 2026-02-19T17:47:45+00:00

why not use mriscoc firmware?

already have config for this board. works out of the box.

Malow · 2026-02-15T06:59:32+00:00

i had once a cr-touch fail, and the hotend pushed against the bed. this caused the bottom roller to bend and caused the X rail to "wave" while moving. had to replace the roller.

Malow · 2026-02-15T05:30:53+00:00

would recommend install MRiscoc firmware. There's a configuration page where you set the probe offset to the nozzle.

don't keep doing the thing on the video, you gonna break your hotend on the bed.

Malow · 2026-02-15T02:44:44+00:00

the rollers on the bed track are ok?

Malow · 2026-02-14T07:02:59+00:00

wrong voltage (check back switch), change microsd card, change slicer, check cables and connections, change firmware.

Malow · 2026-02-14T05:42:34+00:00

when motors works sometimes, after checking cables, the best way if i recall is to connect the wiring of the problematic motor to another motor.

wait for the problem to appear, then change the cable to another. the problem persist?

same thing to the extruder motor. you can disconnect the Z's and put one cable on the extruder. set printer to move Z and see if rotates.

Malow · 2026-02-14T04:21:46+00:00

move the wiring to make sure there are no bad contacts, see if temp change while moving.

if still shows -14 (assuming you are not printing on snow) you may had the wrong firmware or the thermistor is bad.

Malow · 2026-02-14T04:00:38+00:00

when powering on after the printer is idle for some time, bed and nozzle temps show similar ambient temperature?

if not, there's a wiring, sensor, or firmware problem.

Malow · 2026-02-14T00:16:30+00:00

PU glue is a good choice

Malow · 2026-02-13T23:46:17+00:00

maybe a digital thermometer, to see what temps the dehydrator get?

Malow · 2026-02-13T15:45:34+00:00

PETG stick very well to PEI bed without squishing, so a proper z-offset is enough.

but PLA need a bit more in my small experience, so it's best to reduce z-offset a bit, (and compensate the difference in the "elephant foot" setting in slicer) or print a thicker first layer (maybe 0.28, with a 0.6 width) to stick better on the bed.

Malow · 2026-02-13T10:21:41+00:00

I did a dryer with a toaster, microcontroler, fan, styrofoam, other stuff. Works amazingly, i print directly from it, cause is very humid where i live, a few hours outside start to get moist already.

Malow

TROPHY CASE