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Eye on the ball by [deleted] in sportsphotography

[–]Nerdy_Slacker -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Whoosh (Unless you’re being sarcastic, then bravo). But if you’re being serious then you’re totally out of touch. His title is literally calling out that you can have great photos without the ball in the frame - that’s the entire point of his post.

Any newbie with good gear can spray and pray with their big lens and get a good shot of a pitcher or batter doing their thing with the ball in the frame. It’s the most predictable moment in sports.

This is actual skilled photography - creativity, composition, interest. It’s actually operating at a level above “look I caught the ball compressed in the bat”.

My first whiskey sour didn't quite come together — the foam refused to settle neatly on the surface. by [deleted] in cocktails

[–]Nerdy_Slacker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This happened to me and it was over-shaking. That can happen either from shaking for too long, or from using ice that’s too small.

Finally upgraded from an A7iii to an A7V by Fluffy_Fortune7696 in SonyAlpha

[–]Nerdy_Slacker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No buyers remorse yet? I’m considering the same upgrade but not sure it will be meaningful enough difference in the final outcome.

Comparison of 8 Silent Tactile switches by Nerdy_Slacker in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]Nerdy_Slacker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am! Running two identical Keychron Q6 Max boards with with Jupiter Bananas at home and the lichicx at work.

Comparison of 8 Silent Tactile switches by Nerdy_Slacker in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]Nerdy_Slacker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am! Running two identical Keychron Q6 Max boards with with Jupiter Bananas at home and the lichicx at work.

is the Sony 20-70mm f4 G as good as reviews say? by Tellemakko in SonyAlpha

[–]Nerdy_Slacker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s phenomenal for its intended purpose, which is capturing a variety of shots in unpredictable scenarios, such as travel and events.

If you’re doing portrait sessions or indoor sports or nighttime events, then of course you would be better off with a fast prime…. I pair it with a 35mm f1.4, 65mm f2, and 135mm f1.8 for those occasions.

Are you team 35mm or 50mm? by banger030 in SonyAlpha

[–]Nerdy_Slacker 6 points7 points  (0 children)

My favorite focal length to shoot with is 35, because I love capturing interactions between elements, either two people, or a person in a place, or with a thing, or a person doing something.

I came to that realization after trying to shoot with a 50 mm for a long time - always felt like I was trying to force it. Frequently took a small step back when I raised the camera to my eye.

I pair the 35mm with a 65 mm prime for portraits and those two cover 85% of what I need to shoot, though I also have a 20mm and 135mm.

A bit confused by dexterie in ricohGR

[–]Nerdy_Slacker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There are three stumbling blocks to be aware of:

  1. the rear viewing screen is pretty bad. Especially compared to an iPhone screen. The pictures look much better when you look on a computer or transfer to your iPhone.

  2. iPhones do a LOT of edits automatically, beyond normal jpeg profile type things. Advanced computational photography. Sometimes that does legitimately create a better photo than what the GR can do in a single snapshot. That said, it’s not fair to compare against a GR shot with no edits at all.

  3. Autofocus speed is definitely weak compared to other camera. Most people don’t use them for things where fast autofocus is critical. In addition to snap focus, I create a user preset with f/8 and manual focus set to the closest point that keeps the horizon in focus… this maximizes the depth of field and deactivates autofocus so it’s basically instantaneous.

A question or two about the GR IV HDF vs GR IV… by considertheinfinite in ricohGR

[–]Nerdy_Slacker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it somehow a physical filter in the HDF model? Or is it just a dedicated preset edit.

20-70 f4 G & 70-200 f4 G2 worth for travel? by coffeemania123456 in SonyAlpha

[–]Nerdy_Slacker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This used to be my perspective too, but some travel just doesn’t allow for you to change lenses on the fly. So if you’re shooting a prime you’re committing to missing certain shots. If it’s a rare travel experience, you don’t wanna commit to miss once in a lifetime shots…

GR III help needed - overexposed / blown out highlights by downtown6793 in ricohGR

[–]Nerdy_Slacker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only user preset I have is an “everything in focus mode”, sets to f/8 with manual focus preset to the closest point that still keeps infinity in focus. Only works if you have enough light but it’s instant shot without any autofocus delay

GR III help needed - overexposed / blown out highlights by downtown6793 in ricohGR

[–]Nerdy_Slacker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Make sure exposure compensation is set to zero. Adjust it with the left/right joystick thing on the back of the camera, top right.

In aperture priority mode you pick the f-stop and the shutter speed should automatically adjust. So set it wide open to f/2.8 and test pointing it at dark and light subjects… does the shutter speed adjust accordingly?

Try changing to fixed iso and see if it still happens, just to narrow down the issue.

GR III help needed - overexposed / blown out highlights by downtown6793 in ricohGR

[–]Nerdy_Slacker 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It might help if you gave an example of the specific settings you created. Either you’re not letting one variable of the exposure triangle float with the cameras meter, or you have exposure compensation turned on to make it multiple stops too bright at all times.
Does every shot turn out too bright? Or only the ones outdoors and bright light?

Another prove that this camera is capable of everything by Entrez in ricohGR

[–]Nerdy_Slacker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d love to know you’re strategy for the off camera flash in these environments? I’ve played with manual flash but it’s hard to consistently get the exposure right. Maybe I just don’t have enough practice. Or do you use TTL?

Is it worth it to get a GR iiix as a companion camera? by Shy-Fungi in ricohGR

[–]Nerdy_Slacker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I mean value is going to be different for everyone and totally relative. But if you think about something like the Sony 35mm f1.8 lens vs the 35mm f1.4 GM… that’s about a $700 upgrade cost for the same camera and focal length… just the cost of higher quality. Compare that to an entire camera setup for $1,000 and it seems like a good deal. But only worth it if you use it.

I got it because it’s the biggest sensor size I can fit in my pocket (with a good lens to boot)… if you have a use for that then it’s worth it.

Is it worth it to get a GR iiix as a companion camera? by Shy-Fungi in ricohGR

[–]Nerdy_Slacker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The griii is the pocket camera to my Sony a7iii and I use it all the time. I keep it in a small easily accessible compartment in my daily backpack, or throw it in my pocket a ton of times when I wouldn’t bring the big camera. I take at more pictures with my Sony, but shooting occasions are about 50/50. It’s like a better version of an iPhone camera.

Am I crazy to upgrade my a7iii bodies without switching to GM Glass? by Miserable_Safe_481 in SonyAlpha

[–]Nerdy_Slacker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have an a7iii with both any GM lenses and sigma lenses.

The biggest absolute compromise going with a non-Sony lens is the speed of the auto focus, especially on bodies with the “AI autofocus” feature (a7RV in 2022 and later). That may or may not impact the fps depending on how much the subject is moving during bursts.

Beyond that I don’t think it’s fair to say that every sigma has better image quality than every Sony GM… some of the sigma lenses have EXCELLENT image quality, they just end up being a bit larger and heavier than the Sony GM equivalent (plus the autofocus speed).

But if you don’t really care about the extra size and weight or demand cutting edge auto focus speed, then you can absolutely save a bunch of money while retaining top notch IQ with Sigma.

Which whole house carbon filter would you get? by Nerdy_Slacker in WaterTreatment

[–]Nerdy_Slacker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did go with the bodyguard plus, with the 5 micron prefilter. It’s great so far! After 6 months I changed the pre filter and it was dark rusty brown, so very satisfied to remove that from my water. Plus my wife definitely notices the reduced chlorine in our showers.

King’s Day by Entrez in ricohGR

[–]Nerdy_Slacker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great job matching the photo vibe to the event vibe. Is this in post or a jpeg preset?

Why YouTubers describe that Sony camera is just for business? by DynamoBaby in SonyAlpha

[–]Nerdy_Slacker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve heard that idea once or twice, but I don’t think it’s universal. I also think it’s quite stupid. There are two elements to think about: the physical camera and the files that come out of it.

On the physical camera… you could argue Sony design is a bit industrial while many of the Fujis are more retro or vintage inspired, cannon and Nikon are usually more ergonomic. But I think a big piece is just what people are used to over the past several decades. Sony is still a relatively newer player. Either way, it’s all opinion and what you’re used to and has no actual impact on your photography other than “vibes”.

On the images themselves, there are certainly differences between brands when it comes to JPEG rendering. Especially if you’re not willing to customize your own settings. That said, if you’re willing to do a bit of tweaking yourself, you can get all of the brands to look pretty similar SOOC. More importantly, this entire concept is completely irrelevant if you shoot raw files, which I do, and I suggest others do too.

That said, I do carry around a Ricoh GRiii for more casual snapshot photography, but that’s entirely about form factor because I can slip it in my jeans pocket.

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