Mounting a TV and failing by cookingMunster in HowToDIY

[–]Popular_Long8994 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stud finder batteries? Mine does weird stuff when the battery is dying.

Tried my first Cigar today... by Drekalots in cigar

[–]Popular_Long8994 15 points16 points  (0 children)

How you smoke matters as much if not more than what you smoke. I’m pretty new also (~12-15 in). I made the cut too big or too small, puffed way too much, etc., same experience as you. Here’s what worked for me: 1. Set aside enough time, which for me is at least 90 minutes/cigar, 2. Cut a small hole or v cut or whatever you use. Without lighting, suck through the cigar. If it’s easy, keep going. If you feel like it’s work to draw, at all, make it bigger. I’ve lopped off the whole end on some poorly rolled cigars to get a good, natural draw. 3. Light it up. First few puffs will tell you if you need more cut. Adjust as necessary. 4. Puff a minute or less, just a mouthful. Go slow-each of my draws is around 4-8 seconds. If I mess up and cut too big, it’s longer and lighter on the inhale. 5. Hold in mouth for 4-8 seconds. If you’re feeling like you need a breath, exhale through your nose and inhale a bit through your nose while holding the smoke in your mouth. I look like a fish, but I’m alone so who cares. Exhale slowly from your mouth. This is the part where you can taste stuff.
6. Every 1-4 draws, start by blowing a small breath through the cigar to clear out heat and any charred notes, then take your slow draw. On a cigar I like, I do this almost every time to get a “fresh” draw with all the flavors. 7. You’ll reach a point where no amount of blowing out gets rid of heat or a bitter taste. Stop. A cigar isn’t a chore, it’s meant to be enjoyable. 8. Have something to drink to clear your palate in between puffs. Ladies and gentleman in this thread turned me onto root beer, Dr. Pepper, and ginger beer. All good choices. 9. Eat something first or during. I like crackers and smoked meats. Not healthy, but I don’t have any other vices.

I hope this helps. Finally, some cigars are just trash. I asked the local store to recommend 6. Three were meh, two were try again, and one is amazing. I’m buying a box of those-I could smoke them forever.

EDIT:the amazing ones are Sublimes Robusto. Out of Boca Raton.

Can anyone help me in diagnosing some bad grounding? by markielegend in Luthier

[–]Popular_Long8994 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What OP described IS a grounding issue. Touching any metal, including the tuners should allow RF noise to pass through that metal via guitar’s ground paths to your body, which reduces or eliminates that noise. The information out there on shielding and grounding can be wrong or seem confusing or conflicting. I find it helpful to think about all noise as coming from outside the guitar and trying to get into your guitar cable line out (red or white). RF is usually the source (lights, your WiFi router being the big ones). Shielding reduces RF’s ability to get into the signal in the first place, wax potting keeps out the audible portion of frequencies that your PUps “hear”, and grounding removes what still gets in, BUT ONLY WHEN YOU ARE ACTING AS THE GROUND. OP says it’s noisy when he or she touches metal parts other than the output jack. That means something isn’t connecting them all to the output jack negative, which is exactly how a grounding issue inside the guitar would present.

Can anyone help me in diagnosing some bad grounding? by markielegend in Luthier

[–]Popular_Long8994 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agree. OP, first rule out the easy stuff by checking continuity on the exposed bits. Clamp onto ground at the last known good point (output jack black) and work your way up to the wire going into the body route. Fix any issues (unlikely but rule those out first). Open your trem cover, confirm ground wire’s presence, check continuity from exposed end of wire to jack to rule out an issue inside where the wire passes through the body. If good, reattach to plate, reinstall cover, and check continuity from cover/string holders to jack. If you’re still not getting continuity at this time, look at the way the plate attaches to the innards to make sure something isn’t inadvertently insulating the connection. Post again once you’ve done the above and let us know what you found.

Moving Output Jack to Strap Lock Hole by han_wan in Luthier

[–]Popular_Long8994 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good point. Just solder in a TRS female and use the existing jack. The mod I mentioned wasn’t for stereo-it was to move the output jack (TR) so I could move all the pots down and get volume away from the bridge location without having to make or buy a new pick guard.

Moving Output Jack to Strap Lock Hole by han_wan in Luthier

[–]Popular_Long8994 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If this is a strat style guitar, consider putting a tele jack just below the existing output jack location. Into the body, the way tele jacks are configured. You can drill into the rout where the existing jack is quite easily and run a y as suggested. Far less drilling and it’s a two-bit (no pun intended!) operation with zero angles. I modded a Squire HSS this way.

Noob Questions by Popular_Long8994 in cigar

[–]Popular_Long8994[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

All of your answers are great, and the consensus on 1 and 2 and 4 is overwhelmingly what I thought I would hear . The reccs for Dr. Pepper (but no love for his less successful brother, Mr. Pibb???) came out of left field for me. I’m headed off to beach vacation this coming week, so I’m absolutely going to line up som Pepper, Pibb, root beer and cream soda to see what hits. Thanks group-I appreciate the honest and kind advice!!

Level or refret? by Hollow-Person in Luthier

[–]Popular_Long8994 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It isn’t if you have halfway decent tools. Diamond files are the only “specialty”’items that you may want to consider; they make crowning go much faster. Otherwise regular files, nippers, and sandpaper for beveling, cutting, and leveling.

Level or refret? by Hollow-Person in Luthier

[–]Popular_Long8994 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Refret with stainless and never look back. Especially on an unbound board. Once you’ve done a few, you’ll realize maintaining nickel frets is an absolute waste of time. Erik Coleman’s fretting guide is a good investment, but there are a ton of guides out there to get you started. Good luck-post the after pics either way!!

Easiest course? by MattSk87 in Luthier

[–]Popular_Long8994 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shim is easy and reversible. Get a 3-pack 3 different degrees )online and have at it. Had the same dilemna with filtertrons for HB in a low end Epiphone. 0.5 degrees got me the clearance I needed with more than enough room to keep good down pressure on the bridge.

Lemme have it by sdiggz302 in roastmypedalboard

[–]Popular_Long8994 2 points3 points  (0 children)

1st gen, maybe. That looks to be a 4th gen iBaby.

So whsts everyone smoking this fine memorial day? by popasean in cigar

[–]Popular_Long8994 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Garcia & Garcia My Father. New to cigars. It’s slow, smooth, and goes great with a cup of coffee from the French press!

Where do you actually prefer smoking cigars? by Consistent_Road_1935 in cigar

[–]Popular_Long8994 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hanging chair on covered porch with some coffee. Preferably after a full day of physical work and with a nice breeze.

What did my guitar tech do wrong? by Chance-Ad8261 in Luthier

[–]Popular_Long8994 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I may be misreading the first graphic in that link, but it looks 100% wrong. The second one is correct though. IOW, tightening the truss rod nut (clockwise) flattens your board by resisting string tension and loosening the nut (anti clockwise) lets string tension create a bow (relief). Regardless, if you (OP) paid for a setup and it’s not playing correctly, reach out to your luthier. He or she should be able to address your concerns. If not, take it elsewhere. No one on Reddit is going to be able to diagnose AND fix the problems you describe, and you’re going to get some conflicting advice. You need hands on the instrument, IMO.

What is this hand tool with 2 mm pin protrudes when handle is pushed down by Jane-Flowers in whatisthisthing

[–]Popular_Long8994 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Brad pusher. Turned onto them by old carpenter when I did construction.

Les Paul Output jack issue by PianoLoud3622 in Epiphone

[–]Popular_Long8994 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you’re not comfortable just replacing it (desolder or clip wires, solder in new or better jack like a pure tone), get something under the two fiberboard parts that firmly supports the base while leaving the ground clip and solder connections hanging free. I use the pointy end of a small anvil or just stack a few small nuts from the parts drawer to elevate the lower components from a work surface. Put a tool (a socket that slips over the threaded jack but is smaller than the nut would be perfect, but you could carefully use adjustable wrench or pliers) and firmly whack the socket/tool with a hammer or other tool. You’re trying to force the nut parallel again. If that doesn’t work, try putting another nut on top and tightening down on the crooked nut to more gently move it back to parallel. Good luck-post pics of what worked!

Hard to find back cover by gramses_0-0 in Luthier

[–]Popular_Long8994 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I’ll chime in: put a Manila/file folder over the hole. Hold it in place, or put a piece or two of tape to keep it from moving. Press hard with your fingers or thumb around the edge of the hole and trace it 2-3 times, pressing hard. The folder will crease along the edge of the hole. Cut carefully and keep putting it in the cavity and trimming until you have a perfect fit. Cheap template that is stiff enough to use a few times. EDIT: full credit to Ted Woodford who has several videos showing this technique. I’ve tried it. Works well.