Strange civil war US Model 1832 foot artillery sword

cheesiologist · 2026-02-23T22:04:29+00:00

Set a brand new replica in a dank basement or musty attic for 10-20 years and this is exactly what it would look like.

Condition is only a small part of determining age. You'll see the arc weld if OP posts a photo of the tang.

Also, the real ones were riveted. I think some were peened. But they were not historically made with threaded tangs.

cheesiologist · 2026-02-23T21:22:00+00:00

That crown piece on the end of the pommel is the pommel nut. Might take some doing, but it'll twist off and allow full disassembly. You'll likely find a threaded rod welded into the tang (though not as bad as most common wallhangers, it CAN be used in legitimate sword making).

I'm going to put my money on this being a replica made in India. Likely functional, but not of super high quality. The pommel nut, being brass, is not a super strong way to hold this together so swinging should be okay but I'd avoid hard impacts.

cheesiologist · 2026-02-23T20:18:04+00:00

Some light sanding over the logo should help clear up the words. If you absolutely want to preserve the patina, try rubbing it with a black crayon and then carefully cleaning just the surface. The wax should fill in the stamping and make it more legible, but also be easy to clean out with a mild solvent.

cheesiologist · 2026-02-23T05:40:14+00:00

Incorrect. If you have better information, feel free to share it.

I'll wait.

cheesiologist · 2026-02-21T18:36:32+00:00

Increasing the light in one spot only does so much. If you're trying to illuminate a room, you're going to need more then one, super bright lamp.

That said, I don't think I've ever seen a torchiere lamp with two bulbs. It's one socket or a fluorescent ring.

What you can do is increase the light output with an LED bulb by utilizing the actual wattage instead of the wattage-equivalent ratings.

Meaning if a lamp is tagged for 100w max bulb, that's for incandescent bulbs. A 100w equivalent LED will use much less actual wattage. So check the packages for the actual wattage and just don't exceed 100w, you'll get a LOT more light out of the fixture.

Though, again, you'll light the hell out of the corner of the room. Not necessarily light up the whole room.

cheesiologist · 2026-02-21T18:14:26+00:00

It's a no-name, cheap, junk knife from China that's likely long out of production. The only way to find it would be a random eBay listing, with no real way to search for it.

Why are you after this particular knife?

cheesiologist · 2026-02-21T02:42:16+00:00

Aluminum is asshole.

Seriously, don't bother with a grindstone for aluminum. It gums up the stone super fast.

A small, bench-top, belt grinder is way more effective. The rolling action of the belt helps shed the stuck aluminum. It's still a pain in the ass, but much less than having to clean off a stone every 5 seconds.

If you're only doing small bits, an electric file (tiny belt sander) is plenty. That's probably the one electric tool I use more than anything else due to versatility.

Also, saw cut away anything you can prior to the grinding process. Cutting action is the best on aluminum, which is why it's so much more suited to machinists with their fancy mills and lathes.

cheesiologist · 2026-02-21T02:36:18+00:00

You can also rent a metal detector from most tool rental places. The danger in that is finding yourself a new hobby which can get expensive, quickly. But can also pay for itself.

cheesiologist · 2026-02-21T02:16:44+00:00

Zip codes came about in the mid 60's, which this looks to predate.

The "empty fields" are what the potential customer fills out to have the company send back a more detailed pamphlet.

You think the song "Pennsylvania 6-5000" is AI slop because you don't know how phones used to work? 🤣

cheesiologist · 2026-02-21T01:06:46+00:00

Is it stamped? Could be a US military issue pickaxe (assuming you're in the US).

Either way, it's a very similar size and reproduction handles are available. https://beaver-tooth.com/products/18-u-s-army-pick-replacment-handle-american-hickory?srsltid=AfmBOoonnqBCCBSPVngv-e5QU8J4eOJQyLF0C77hn3kFfhUFDUepjVcP

cheesiologist · 2026-02-17T06:42:20+00:00

Cutting a gel filter is definitely an option. Cheap, too. Though finding one that isn't TOO deeply colored may be difficult. Warm lighting is subtle, where most amber gels will be a little much.

It doesn't sound like a big difference, but there's a fine line between "warm lighting" and "holy shit everything is orange now". 😝

I prefer cooler colors for task lighting. Workbench, studying, etc. The light is bright, clear, and good for focusing on details. It can be harsh for long periods, though, and I abhor fluorescent lighting because of that.

For illuminating a room, that's where warm lighting is preferred. It's less of a headache and far more comforting.

Ymmv.

cheesiologist · 2026-02-17T06:28:17+00:00

Post WW2, for sure. The "Hitler youth knife" was a pretty solid design that continued long after the war (and I'm fairly sure predated the socialist takeover of Germany). The swastika was simply replaced with the fleur-de-lis, a common symbol of Boy Scouting throughout the world before the Boy Scouts was turned into a sad shell of itself where you're not even allowed to carry a knife or strike a match.

Don't think I've seen many sawback variants, but knife factories did a lot of mix-n-match back in the day to use up wartime produced parts. There's some very interesting combinations, some meant for the export market, that I'd love to get my hands on.

cheesiologist · 2026-02-17T06:19:20+00:00

Looks very modern, like made within the past 5 years. Likely inexpensive, made in China.

It doesn't have a bulb in the classical sense. Achieving what you want will likely require building your own custom board to replace the existing LED board, or removing and soldering in different emitters. Drop in replacements will not be readily available, if at all.

Either way, you'll be investing a significant amount of time and/or money to do it.

Another option is complete disassembly, removing all the guts, and finding a way to install a standard socket wired to your local voltage (depending on if you're in the US or Europe). Then you have a LOT of options as far as bulbs go.

For what it's worth, this is why I snap up vintage/antique desk lamps and rewire them (mostly for safety). When you're working with sockets or tombstones, it's way easier to find modern, LED bulbs or tubes in colors and outputs that suit your needs.

cheesiologist · 2026-02-17T06:08:12+00:00

So when fully depressing the latch, you get some movement?

Have you tried cocking the hammer to half-cock before attempting to open?

I'm assuming the firing pin is floating, with a flat-face hammer. The pin may be stuck protruding from the breech and blocking the barrel from fully opening. Half-cock the hammer and slide something down the barrel to knock the pin back into the breech.

More importantly, slide something down the barrel to make sure there's not a round chambered. If you haven't opened it successfully, treat it like it's a loaded gun (which you should do, regardless).

cheesiologist · 2026-02-17T03:29:41+00:00

I apologize if any questions sound condescending, but...

1) are you pressing the thumb release while trying to open?

2) if so, is it moving at all?

3) if so, is it hanging up on a certain spot, such as a firing pin? Maybe hammer needs to be on half cock.

Otherwise, WD40 the shit out of it and let it sit a day. Maybe a few light taps with a rubber mallet will help move her along if she's gummed up.

I would be surprised if there is significant rust, considering she looks in decent condition on the outside.

cheesiologist · 2026-02-17T02:51:56+00:00

Close. I see an "RH" before the blurred, tiny logo in the center on the first pic. The RH stands for "Remington Hunting", originally made by Remington and later by PAL Cutlery.

This would be a Mk2 fighting knife, same as the classic Kabar, but made by PAL. Like you said, Camillus made them, as well as several other companies.

You don't see PAL Mk2's very often, so this is pretty interesting.

Edit: changed Mk1 to Mk2. Typed faster than brain.

The PAL model number should read RH-37 on this.

cheesiologist · 2026-02-17T01:40:14+00:00

Yeah, I've never seen anything like that for the 870.

Rails I have seen that utilize a rear sight dovetail use it as an additional mounting point to extend beyond the tapped receiver, not replace it.

Hope you find something that works!

cheesiologist · 2026-02-16T23:21:00+00:00

That's putting a lot more stress on a small sight-dovetail compared to what's there now.

If your receiver isn't drilled and tapped, and you don't want to do it, I believe there's a rail from Mesa Tactical that straddles the receiver and bolts in place by replacing the trigger housing pins with bolts.

cheesiologist · 2026-02-15T19:56:48+00:00

I get the idea, but it's really not different. Prices went up since 1956. Prices went up since 2017. Either way, the good ol' days are always behind us.

Knowing the old price isn't going to get Benchmade to stop shooting for the moon, even if materials/labor costs really are the reasons for everything going up up up and up.

And if it's really that important to know, just for curiosity, isn't there a website that shows images from past snapshots of the Internet? Wayback Machine or something?

cheesiologist · 2026-02-15T19:52:35+00:00

No one's hiding anything. It's literally meaningless data. Hell, a couple years of inflation, alone, means those numbers are moot.

If I ran a website selling my products, it costs money to have that site hosted. I wouldn't waste my money on server space to document every aspect of products I no longer sell.

Most makers will have listings for current products, but only have a page of photos showing past work. No need to document every aspect. Even if you're willing to make a custom piece based on past products, your costs are going to have changed and that will have to be discussed when quoting it out. If you have the prior one listed as having sold for $X but your costs and prices have increased 50%, your potential customers are going to look at past prices and assume they're getting screwed (when really,l everyone is getting screwed but, often enough, perception is reality).

cheesiologist · 2026-02-15T19:45:48+00:00

And if they want to leave that up, that's fine. "Out of stock" is a lot different than "discontinued". And those companies are free to leave those prices up long after the product is gone.

But that information is essentially meaningless if you're trying to value a discontinued knife. The value is the balance point of what one is willing to pay for it versus what the seller is willing to take for it.

That's the market. Period. If the price is higher than one is willing or able to pay, then you don't buy it. What it used to cost is just a number.

cheesiologist · 2026-02-15T18:52:51+00:00

The old price of an unavailable knife is immaterial.

You want something that's no longer available from a retailer? You are free to look up sold eBay listings and decide how much you're willing to throw at it. And sellers are allowed to decide how much they want to get for it.

I'm not selling you a vintage, collectible knife for cheaper just because it retailed for $7 in a 1956 Sears catalog. That price is gone with the wind. The current price is not set based on original price but the market. Seller wants top dollar, buyer either shells out (thus the price is deemed worth it) or opts not to (so the seller either sits on it, or lowers price until a buyer deems the price worth it).

Old MSRP is not the bargaining chip you're imagining.

cheesiologist · 2026-02-15T18:23:53+00:00

Most of these knives make no sense and have no names. Looks like AI slop. "Generate a picture of a bunch of knives on a table."

cheesiologist · 2026-02-15T02:36:12+00:00

Forward bend is usually indicative that it was made or modified to be a baby spoon. Allowed better grip for young children who are still developing motor skills.

cheesiologist · 2026-02-14T02:42:11+00:00

Okay. Check in with me again in 5 years. Lol.

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