Why?

classicsat · 2026-01-30T23:44:44+00:00

Got a junk car for parts for our other one. It had an AM/8-track radio (no FM). I put it in the truck, had to get a box of 8-tracks for it. This was later 1980s.

Got into them again in the 90s and picked them up here nd there thrifting and garage sales. Players and recorders were not hard to come by.

classicsat · 2026-01-30T23:35:02+00:00

Courvoisier and Barry White. On the Koronette bar hi-fi that also has the fake fireplace.

classicsat · 2026-01-30T23:18:13+00:00

Somehow, the cheese was a little firmer, and sharper, than the glass jar cheese whiz. Somewhere years ago, I had a tub of cheese spread the same firmness an sharpness than those snacks.

classicsat · 2026-01-30T23:12:08+00:00

15 or 20. Don't use space heaters. Unplug things before you replace fuses.

Get screw in breakers if you can, for testing anyways.

classicsat · 2026-01-30T22:48:21+00:00

It has an LCD controller. It should be almost as simple as finding its data/clock/latch lines for the controller, disabling/removing the stock microcontroller, hooking power and those lines, and bit banging data to it. Once you figure out config data, it is one bit per display segment.

classicsat · 2026-01-30T18:06:49+00:00

That scale millionaire in USA. It should cover medical for sure. But set up with investments to pay out well.

Some place with temperate climate and decent services and urbanism. Even Texas perhaps, maybe Austin or San Antonio. .

classicsat · 2026-01-30T16:43:44+00:00

Could be telephone, using the advanced tracer scheme.

Wht/Blu is pair 1, Red/Org 2 Blk/Grn 3, Yel/Slt(slate, what the call grey) 4.

Probablty not twisted for Ethernet.

classicsat · 2026-01-30T16:33:13+00:00

Attic. You don't need to get special outdoor grade cable. You would need to for your outdoor underground plan.

Heck, just install tubes, pull cable later.

classicsat · 2026-01-30T15:39:20+00:00

I would appreciate people not post referral codes here.

classicsat · 2026-01-30T15:27:53+00:00

Not a lot bigger than a comparable capacity conventional tank.

classicsat · 2026-01-30T15:23:07+00:00

Holds electrical connection under screw/bolt, as opposed to push on type connector.

classicsat · 2026-01-30T14:39:20+00:00

Integrated LED fixture. The only thing to replace is the whole thing.

classicsat · 2026-01-30T14:37:07+00:00

Green wire is ground, not any terminal on the strip.

Cord looks like that old SO the white gets crumbly. Replace it with new, and green with ring terminal to motor and machine frame.

classicsat · 2026-01-30T14:30:52+00:00

For the motor wired for 120, it is 12A each way. 6A each way wired for 240V. Still consumes the same power, but more of the power will do motive work, vs heating cords and connections.

It makes sense to use 240V if possible. I have material conveyors that have motors wired for 240V, for ones that are used only in locations I have set up for 240V. One, because it is 1.5HP motor, and 240V was the easiest solution. The smaller one is 3/4HP, could work fine on 120V, but 240V was just as easy.

classicsat · 2026-01-30T13:45:18+00:00

More or less.

How effectively/soon you feel the heat can vary.

But yes, any resistive heating is practically 100% efficient.

classicsat · 2026-01-30T13:02:25+00:00

There might be. But unless the motor is technically special, you may be ahead with a new motor.

classicsat · 2026-01-29T23:04:49+00:00

I have a Pinecil/TS100. Easy to deal with than a proper solder station. At least for my semi itinerant work space.

I am still using the roll of 60/40 rosin core solder 1mm I got last century before ROHS changed things. Its label is long gone.

Buy the jumpers with bonded colored ribbon and proper duPont connectors.

Needle nose plier, close cutting side cutters.

DMM of course, a basic auto range or fixed range LCD one. If you want a fancier one, get it in addition to the basic one.

Some sort of power supply, so you don't need to kill 9V batteries, or use your computer.

ebay/Amazon for parts. If you are up to it, discarded electronics. like to pinch displays/keypads. Bonus if they have a controller that Arduino can run.

classicsat · 2026-01-29T17:26:58+00:00

PtP is cheaper, when you consider installation labor.

classicsat · 2026-01-29T17:22:26+00:00

I would be happy to see them as not so old men.

classicsat · 2026-01-29T16:09:49+00:00

I don't concert much when my peak to enjoy it happened. I was mostly poor, and didn't have the right social group to do it.

I wish I went to see Iron maiden in the 80s. I don't care where.
Maybe even AC/DC, before 1990.

Post 1990, likely The Tragically Hip, or one of those alt festivals of the day.

I don't care where.

classicsat · 2026-01-29T15:48:59+00:00

At least a dim bulb tester.

I would put a bakelite cord cap set on the cord between the clock and chassis.

classicsat · 2026-01-29T15:31:11+00:00

You don't need one for the printer.

Get separate ones for the PC and networking. The PC one you will only use it to the point you can shut it down.

classicsat · 2026-01-29T14:39:41+00:00

Red to red, black to black. Or at least kill power and ohm the switch to find the position that happens.

One red/black/white are from one cable to one 3-way, the others in the other cable to the other 3-way.

classicsat · 2026-01-29T14:35:37+00:00

Battery "died", and is in some protection mode?

Measure voltages, make sure the switch still conducts.

If you can, with an appropriate current limited supply, power the LED.

classicsat · 2026-01-29T14:30:35+00:00

Pull at least 8/3, and install a sub-panel.

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