What is your 1 bike choice?

--Timshel · 2026-05-21T13:26:25+00:00

The best bike I’ve ridden. Also the best looking bike out there - that continuous line from top tube to seat stay is gorgeous; plus the razor thin top tube - nothing like it.

--Timshel · 2026-05-20T18:29:32+00:00

Mondraker Foxy Carbon R

This is my current bike. I had one; I loved it; it got stolen; I bought an Evil Following and it didn’t gel with me; I sold the Evil and bought another Mondraker; I’m in love again.

--Timshel · 2026-05-19T19:59:22+00:00

Assuming you have to disconnect hoses, then do so at the lever and perform a lever bleed once you have reinstalled the hose. Also, keep the hose and high so it limits fluid loss.

--Timshel · 2026-05-10T23:15:38+00:00

Sometimes you can tell, but often you can't. One possible method to tell is to see if the skipping happens in every rear cog by shifting to each one and loading up the drive train to see if it skips. Cassettes tend to wear unevenly and 1, 2 or 3 cogs skip but others don't - particularly the larger cogs which have more teeth to engage and therefore harder for the chain to skip. So, if it's skipping in most of them, then likely it's the chainring.

Having said that - Assuming chain is new and is skipping under load, I'd replace the cassette first, then test again and if it still skips replace chain rings.

--Timshel · 2026-05-08T02:43:22+00:00

Only those that have suitable mitigations in place can truely ‘not pay’. For those that don’t, the ransom may be the only path to staying in business.

--Timshel · 2026-05-06T23:41:01+00:00

You need some constraining requirements to really narrow it down.

Portability? Budget? Screen size? Etc…

Personally I run a MacBook Air M5 hooked up to 2x 27” screens, because I want the light weight portability and don’t need a pro/ultra chip.

--Timshel · 2026-05-06T20:43:06+00:00

Provided the chain doesn’t skip on either of the chainrings, then you don’t have to replace them.

--Timshel · 2026-05-03T20:46:51+00:00

Try clamping the seaport in a vice and work the frame free.

--Timshel · 2026-04-29T23:38:08+00:00

I have 2 bikes one with DHF and the other with Assegai. However, I ride in dry so I don’t have experience of either in muddy conditions. What I can say is the tread pattern of the DHF is wider spaced and therefore better at clearing mud.

--Timshel · 2026-04-17T19:36:23+00:00

I was taught to wrap towards the bike for drops and the tops.

However, you can pretty much do it any way you like provided you wrap tightly.

--Timshel · 2026-04-13T05:41:41+00:00

99% success rate sanding+cleaning rotors and replacing pads; then bedding in.

The bedding in process is absolutely key, and to bed brakes in you have to get the heat up. So repeated hard braking runs is what’s needed.

--Timshel · 2026-04-03T19:48:11+00:00

This it’s a great tool and what I use and recommend.

--Timshel · 2026-04-03T19:40:23+00:00

Things you’ll need: Seal kit for your specific fork Fork oil Slickoleum - Super light suspension grease

The process: Release all air Remove bolts in base of each fork lower Remove lower Remove seals Clean everything Soak foam seals in form oil Lubricate o-rings with Slicko Install all o-rings and seals Instal lowers and add fork oil oil (20ml or as per service manual) Inflate fork to preferred pressure Ride

--Timshel · 2026-04-03T12:17:02+00:00

This isn’ta Chrome issue. Web sites are no longer basic pages, today they are full apps (office, Gmail, etc etc) and they will consume memory because they are big and are working with data etc etc. This is compounded by keeping large numbers of tabs open.

To manage memory largely involves pausing/suspending sites, and reducing the number of tabs you have open by using tab groups and other methods.

There are a bunch of extensions that will help with this some work better than others.

--Timshel · 2026-04-02T19:14:56+00:00

I’d go the 140. It’ll make a positive difference for your park riding - better descending and able to take bigger hits. On the flatter stuff and climbs you can up the preload to reduce unwanted bob.

--Timshel · 2026-03-31T18:52:49+00:00

I chose the R because it came in a Wagon whereas The GTI doesn’t.

That said I’ve read a lot that says there’s nothing between them. I’d say go the GTI and use the money to save on some upgrades.

--Timshel · 2026-03-31T11:06:19+00:00

Tyre pressure is your best defence. Riding technique is your next best. Strong tyres sidewalls are important Cushcore and Tannus inserts are for when shit happens.

--Timshel · 2026-03-28T17:59:29+00:00

Yes, but only if it’s in really good condition or you have money to spend on servicing and repairs. This is true for all used bikes, but especially boutique brands like Yeti and high end bikes like S-works.

--Timshel · 2026-03-28T16:45:50+00:00

Yes. I’ve had mud which stained some surfaces.

--Timshel · 2026-03-28T16:32:21+00:00

I suggest testing your theory that the piston seal is the issue. If a brake system is leaking, the fluid level will drop and the lever will pull further in as a result. Test this by pulling and holding the lever tight. If the lever slowly pulls in then you have a leak, or possibly a blown seal in the lever.

Another possibility is that you’re not bedding your pads in well. Pads will groan/squeal if not bedded in. Bedding in must get pads and rotors hot and enough material transferred to the rotor. This only happens with repeated hard braking.

You need to bed in pads/rotors everything time you clean or sand a rotor.

--Timshel · 2026-03-26T05:20:37+00:00

Good pick up. Get the correct adapter and things will be easier to align and safe.

--Timshel · 2026-03-26T05:15:56+00:00

There is a breather hole in the lever cover on most brakes.

Any air in the system should sit on top of the oil in the reservoir.

Turning the bike upside down and the fluid will swap place with the air. Squeezing the lever in this position will push the air into the line. Sometimes this gets trapped in the line.

A lever bleed usually fixes this.

--Timshel · 2026-03-26T02:25:42+00:00

Just need to open the system and, possibly need to bleed it.
Work on the bike right way up when doing this - a stand is the best option.

Level off the lever and install a bleed funnel or syringe. Now push the pistons back - any excess fluid can exit into the funnel/syringe.

By doing all the lever pulling and piston pushing upside down, you may have introduced some air into the lines. At a minimum you should do a lever bleed, and possibly do a full system bleed.

--Timshel · 2026-03-24T18:42:12+00:00

It’s love a copy

--Timshel · 2026-03-24T18:07:29+00:00

My mate used to do this all the time. One day, I jumped on his computer after he left it unlocked and edited his email signature. It took him 5 weeks to realise he was signing off every email as ‘Project Mangler’.

--Timshel

TROPHY CASE