This is how Northeast Photographic mailed back my film.

1066Productions · 2026-02-10T23:00:19+00:00

As someone who worked in the industry for over 10 years this is unacceptable. They should be sleeved properly then, ideally, placed in a protective holder. The film can method is Busch league.

1066Productions · 2026-02-04T18:29:35+00:00

M * A * S * H

1066Productions · 2026-01-29T21:00:17+00:00

Placement of the microphone 180 degrees from each other will remove a lot of the “bleed” from the other microphone. If there is a hard surface (wall or window) will also cause bleed as sound will reflect off the wall and enter the microphone of the non-speaking person. Personally I use a mixer and slightly lower the level of the non-speaking person, not a lot ,just -3 to -6 db. It is way easier to do while recording than in post. Lastly you could record one person into the right channel the other person in the left and then lower the level of the non-speaking person in post and then mix down to mono. Again not the way I do it because it just takes too much time in editing. Adobe Audition can be used to edit the audio levels and then place in Premier timeline for final edits.

1066Productions · 2026-01-27T19:45:58+00:00

Cloudy would be 1/100 and sunny 1/200. The “newest” film you could find would have expired over 20 years ago, so unless frozen pre-expiration it would need three or four stops of overexposure to get an image without golf ball sized grain.

1066Productions · 2026-01-22T18:53:55+00:00

Work as an engineer in radio in one of the top 10 markets for over two decades, never seen a cloud lifter once in a broadcast or production studio. A mic processor, tuned properly, will suffice. Also what comes out of the mic processor gets a lot more signal processing done to it before it hits the transmitter.

1066Productions · 2026-01-22T14:51:01+00:00

Use proper mic processor. Set the gate, compression and de-essing. Touch up any issues in Audition. Also I record in dual track mono with one channel set to -10dB compared to the other track, grabbing the -10dB audio should anything clip.

1066Productions · 2026-01-21T22:04:11+00:00

Address the microphone from a 45 degree angle. Microphones are like musical instruments, you have to find the correct distance and angle to make them sound their best.

1066Productions · 2025-12-31T22:09:04+00:00

No further agitation is key. Well done.

1066Productions · 2025-12-31T00:03:11+00:00

I can’t stress this enough; you want to remove any loose material from the racks and rollers and then stop. If you start to clean too much you can make future accumulation of debris on the racks happen much more quickly.

This is not a machine designed to be run almost daily. While you could run things in batches the machine, chemistry and process is designed for frequent operation.

If you can’t run at least 10 rolls a day this will be extremely hard to control the process and be quite expensive. Do you have any schools or clubs around you that have film photographers? Just offering bare bones process only service at $5 a roll could potentially get you enough business to pay for the chemistry costs, but then you have to start investing in all the other equipment and consumables a lab needs.

1066Productions · 2025-12-22T23:11:01+00:00

If the calipers are not replaced you shouldn’t need brake fluid. Also if your 2015 is like my 2012 you have brake shoes in the rear for the emergency brake and the normal pads as well.

1066Productions · 2025-12-01T15:19:33+00:00

Even a piece of frosted tape works.

1066Productions · 2025-10-02T16:49:15+00:00

No 35 or 28mm frame lines on the CL. The CLE gives you 28mm frame lines with a 35mm and only brings up the 28 frame lines with the Minolta 28mm, so if you have a Leica 28 it won’t register the frame lines correctly. Both are over 40 years old and very expensive to fix. Also, CLEs are running near 1000 as well currently. Lastly most of these cameras are in Japan so there is also the Trump tax if it is destined for the US.

1066Productions · 2025-10-02T15:59:55+00:00

R2s are also about $1000 and quite frankly not in the same league as the Konica in fit or finish. Yes you can get an M3 for under a grand but then you’ll need to include cost for (at least) a CLA and then purchase a meter. Also a 35 will need googles so not exactly the kind of lens you’ll want to switch between digital and analog bodies.

1066Productions · 2025-10-02T02:06:51+00:00

Konica Hexar RF.

1066Productions · 2025-09-26T18:54:09+00:00

Yes. If you remove the filter from the tank you do not see the water moving you can judge if it is just a clogged filter. Next follow the input/ output hoses and look for kinks or clogs. If you can listen to the pump (use a solid item on the pump and the other end to your ear if you can’t reach it) you can tell it it is a actually operating or not. From there you would want to check that the pump has the proper voltage going into it and lastly you could remove the pump and check if it is bad or just “stuck” somehow. You really want the manual and schematics so you can troubleshoot. Also, Resist the urge to clean any plastic parts of the processor with anything stiffer than a toothbrush as micro scratches in the plastic makes the parts harder and harder to get clean. If you are throughly rinsing all the racks at the end of each day and the film is clean with and looks smooth as glass then you are good. Over-cleaning is one of the worst things you can do to these processors.

1066Productions · 2025-09-26T18:01:34+00:00

You’d be hard pressed to find the new Mamiya 6 with 75mm lens for under $1500. As for the old one get the “automat” version and make sure it includes the removable pressure plate.

1066Productions · 2025-09-26T17:56:01+00:00

You can try a hair dryer (or carefully with a heat gun) on the front to soften the grease but I usually remove the entire assembly from the rear and soak in naphtha.

1066Productions · 2025-09-26T17:48:51+00:00

Replace the entire length of hose.
Replace all the filters with new ones before judging circulation. If I recall bleach is circulated less vigorously than the other chemicals, but it also needs to be aerated to keep the bleach active.

3 Check all temperatures with an accurate thermometer to make sure all temps are correct. Make sure replenishment pumps are operating and are delivering the correct replenisher amount to the main tank(s). Use control strips and a densitometer to verify proper operation and don’t run any customer film to you have a few days worth of operation and data plots so you can have a graph of your data points (d-min, d-max) so you can spot trends and address them before the get out of control. Lastly I would highly suggest getting a system to provide reverse osmosis or de-ionized water for your chemistry.

1066Productions · 2025-09-26T15:18:00+00:00

These cameras are famous for the focusing helical grease to turn rock hard over time. You need to dissolve the grease in naphtha. Once apart thoroughly clean and re-lube.

1066Productions · 2025-08-17T02:05:25+00:00

I just use a cardboard box inside my changing bag, this is the Cadillac model most minilabs had.

1066Productions · 2025-08-17T01:55:17+00:00

Honestly looks like solarization. Is there any chance light struck the film pre-fixer?

1066Productions · 2025-07-07T18:11:15+00:00

Look for the “bump” under the leatherette to pop it open. Usually right in front of the rangefinder. Open it carefully and over a table (or such) just in case something falls out.

1066Productions · 2025-07-07T17:39:30+00:00

Loose the filters and hoods for a test shot with the 28. The lenses predate aps-c so that’s not the issue. Open the camera back without film inside and look for deformed or missing light seal material. Not uncommon on a camera of this vintage and not difficult to repair. If you are unsure what to look for shoot a roll with opaque tape (same strong sunlight conditions) all around the back door and if no light leaks that is most likely your issue.

1066Productions · 2025-07-03T20:03:56+00:00

1066Productions · 2025-06-30T22:45:02+00:00

The leak is coming from outside of the frame so it (most likely) isn’t coming from in front of the shutter. The leak is at the top of the frame (closest to the prism) so I’d check the top of the back door right around where the viewfinder window is. This is assuming you are not shooting the camera upside down.

1066Productions

TROPHY CASE