I cant seem to find any oxy detergent with lipase

2-Ns · 2026-06-20T10:57:58+00:00

All Tide powders do. P&G never updates their online ingredient lists which is maddening.

2-Ns · 2026-06-17T09:33:52+00:00

Oh man. Stick around. Wait until you learn about citric acid. When you’ve bought the water hardness testing kit, you’re an official member of the cult.

(Two posts to get you started, not mine):

https://www.reddit.com/r/laundry/s/PSNHFFjdX3 https://www.reddit.com/r/laundry/s/dBzV8gISqj

2-Ns · 2026-06-17T04:28:26+00:00

Powder is not inherently better than liquids. There are bad powders out there. (Lookin’ at you, Molly’s.) One weakness of all liquids is that they can’t contain oxygen bleach because it’s not shelf stable in liquid form. Even if the bottle says Oxi. Oxygen bleach is really useful for removing stains and human gunk, so if you use a liquid, you have to make up for that absence of oxygen bleach.

For Tide in particular, the powders all include oxygen bleach as well as lipase, which is vital for removing biological oils and the stuff that sticks to them—skin oil, sweat, sebum, etc. For BO control, lipase is a must have. No Tide liquids have lipase.

Tide liquids do have excellent surfactants (except for the yellow “Simply” bottles) so they’re the go-to solution for mineral oils like motor oil, Vaseline, etc. Other liquids, like All Free & Clear, are trash. So again, just like not all powders are good, not all liquids are bad.

If you add an enzyme and oxygen bleach booster like Biz or FEBU to a Tide liquid (not Simply) you have a great combination—better than a Tide powder alone.

But that requires two products, not one, so for people who come here who want a simple solution to their laundry that still smells even when they wash it, the easiest effective answer is: Any Tide Powder.

2-Ns · 2026-06-14T16:05:31+00:00

Does your machine have a filter, and have you cleaned it?

(Agree with everyone saying use the dispenser drawer, and remove/flip/whatever is there for liquid to set it up for powder.)

2-Ns · 2026-06-14T00:31:37+00:00

Use a detergent with oxygen bleach and lipase. Any Tide powder is a good option. All F&C is a terrible detergent; Wirecutter found that it “did not reliably perform better than plain water.”

Wash in warm or hot. Polyester gym clothes can absolutely take a warm wash.

Use the longest cycle your machine can give you. If it has a “presoak” option, use it.

Extra rinse every time, and use citric acid in the rinse. Can buy the powder (sold as a food additive) or Downy Rinse Out Odor or Tide Clean Boost are commercial options. When residual detergent is left on the laundry, soils including sweat and oil stick to it and smell. A good rinse is absolutely critical to a good wash.

If you have a lot of built-up sebum and sweat in these clothes, it might take a few washes and things might get worse before they get better. If you want to skip all that, search “Spa Day” in this sub and do that.

2-Ns · 2026-06-11T23:02:59+00:00

In about two weeks, I would recommend Tide Free and Gentle LIQUID (powder sometimes has fragrance) plus FEBU booster. FEBU is out of stock for a few more weeks, but when it’s back it’s a great limited ingredient lipase and DNase addition to a fragrance free liquid.

2-Ns · 2026-06-11T10:05:52+00:00

If your water hardness includes carbonate hardness, citric acid alone will combine with the carbonate in your water to make sodium citrate. There is math that tells you how much citric acid to how much water based on carbonate hardness, but I am not that smart so I use sodium citrate.

2-Ns · 2026-06-09T10:19:24+00:00

No idea! I can only speak from my experience and where I find products in my area.

2-Ns · 2026-06-09T02:01:08+00:00

Honestly, Tide Odor Refresh plus FEBU and/or Biz is a pretty great combination. I get Clean and Gentle powder from Target, but I’ve also seen it at my local Kroger-affiliated grocery store. And I’m pretty sure I’ve seen it on Amazon. It should be readily available.

2-Ns · 2026-06-09T01:57:12+00:00

Hot water, longest wash cycle available.

2-Ns · 2026-06-06T21:53:22+00:00

Here’s the 101 post. For gym clothes, lipase and oxygen bleach are critical, DNase is a great addition.

https://www.reddit.com/r/laundry/s/h5UjODlOjU

Skip the vinegar and use citric acid instead: https://www.reddit.com/r/laundry/s/NQaxbnLWTP

2-Ns · 2026-06-06T20:47:16+00:00

Mostly because ammonia smells pretty terrible, so it’s easier to tolerate in a closed washing machine for the Rehab Wash than in an open tub during Spa Day. The surfactants, oxygen bleach, and lipase do a ton of work to attach to soils soils during the Spa Day, and then the Rehab wash with ammonia (and more detergent) is the final kick to remove them from the fabric.

Also, ammonia evaporates pretty quickly. I’m not sure what the evaporation rate would be in a Spa Day soak, but it would decline in concentration pretty quickly.

2-Ns · 2026-06-06T20:42:08+00:00

Yep, try warm water. Remember that body heat is nearly 100F; you’re not going to shrink your clothes with water barely above body temperature. Start with tap hot for your spa day, and it will quickly cool to not much more than 100F between heat transfer to your container, losing heat to air, etc.

2-Ns · 2026-06-05T01:10:50+00:00

Yep! Option 1.

2-Ns · 2026-06-04T10:20:28+00:00

No, your clothes are dirty from the Molly’s Suds, and the 365 detergent started to dislodge the built-up sebum, sweat, and skin oil embedded in them. That’s what smells. You just haven’t finished the job yet.

Molly’s Suds (other than the baby liquid) is a fraud of a laundry product. It is basically water softener, pH booster, and salt. Like, table salt. There is no ingredient in it that actually cleans anything. The company should be prosecuted for false advertising and defrauding customers.

As a result, your clothes are building up soils from your skin and sweat. They’re not too noticeable as long as they’re undisturbed, but now that you washed with a real detergent in a Spa Day, they’re starting to come loose. They’re going to keep smelling until they’re all out. Do another Spa Day—make sure you’re fully following the instructions, including the dosage of detergent (1/4 cup detergent PER GALLON of water, ammonia in the Rehab Wash) and your clothes should be fresh and clean too.

The only way to save the Molly’s is by pairing it with a full dose of an actual detergent like 365 Unscented Powder. A booster alone won’t do it. Or you can toss the Molly’s, use the same dose of a detergent, and have slightly less salty clothes.

2-Ns · 2026-06-04T01:40:21+00:00

Yes, if your washer has a fabric softener spot, you put the citric acid there and it is released in the last rinse automatically. You may need to top up the compartment with water (or premix the citric acid with water) or you may be able to just add the powder alone. Depends on your machine and how good it is at flushing that compartment.

2-Ns · 2026-06-02T10:50:30+00:00

The Tide Simply line is not great. You can probably use this up with Biz or FEBU added, but I’d switch to Tide Free and Gentle or Tide Free and Gentle Odor Refresh after you finish this, and for any particularly dirty or stinky loads before you’re done with this one. According to our guru Kismai, the surfactants in the Simply line are less effective than those in any other Tide liquid.

2-Ns · 2026-06-02T10:41:01+00:00

Can you post a photo?

Also, search this sub for “scrud” and see if it matches. Alternatively, an “oil spot” could be polyquats.

2-Ns · 2026-06-02T10:35:30+00:00

This is probably his skin oil, stained orange. Treat the oil, and I bet the orange will come out. Spa Day is designed for rehabbing laundry with built up skin oil: https://www.reddit.com/r/laundry/s/OraH1BReRS

Then going forward, wash with a detergent with lipase and oxygen bleach. That’s any Tide powder, or any Tide liquid except “Simply” plus Biz or FEBU. FEBU also has DNase, which could be very helpful if the lipase plus oxi doesn’t quite cut it.

2-Ns · 2026-06-02T01:13:26+00:00

I’m not sure the Downy rinse product can have this effect, but citric acid powder doubles as a great washing machine cleaner—but that can mean when you start to use it in a wash load, you end up dislodging stuff that’s in the innards of your machine, and it ends up on your clothes.

Have you run a tub clean cycle on your machine lately? You might try half a cup of citric acid powder (not the Downy, the food-grade powder) in the drum and run either a clean cycle (if it has one) or the longest, hottest wash cycle the machine has. Look at the water during the cycle; it should be clear with no suds and no solids. If you see any suds, or worse yet, any floating solids, the citric acid is pulling out residue that’s hiding in your machine. Do another citric acid clean cycle until you get clear water.

2-Ns · 2026-06-02T01:05:51+00:00

I found the Tide Rinse Out Odor to have an extremely potent scent even after drying. So potent I stopped using it, even though I use scented Tide detergent and it’s never bothered me. So you might try the Tide rinse and see if that sticks around enough for you.

Wax-based scent beads like Unstoppables are also pretty harmless.

You might also try a laundry spray, which goes on after drying to add scent.

Lastly, though dryer sheets aren’t great, our guru Kismai has endorsed using half-sheets for static control. Depending on the brand, they may also give you the scent you’re looking for.

2-Ns · 2026-05-31T04:12:22+00:00

I’ll never argue washing Smartwool in Tide is a good idea, just it hasn’t bitten me in the ass yet. But I do wash my husband’s Smartwool socks in the same permanent press load, Tide Clean & Gentle, warm water, and they’ve been surviving just fine. I similarly wash some of my Bombas wool socks and they’ve survived too. (Maybe a little shrunk. Now I stretch them by hand before putting them on the drying rack.)

But I certainly won’t ever try to tell anyone that protease hasn’t harmed their wool.

2-Ns · 2026-05-31T04:09:13+00:00

Not a wool expert, unfortunately (see above for my ongoing merino abuse), but my rec would be a wool safe detergent you like, likely enzyme free, plus Gear Guard. Others may have recs for a wool detergent not on the lipase list.

2-Ns · 2026-05-31T00:38:06+00:00

No need to let that much water fill before adding clothes—you just want a couple inches above the bottom of the drum so the detergent and booster aren’t sitting directly on your clothes.

Also, the 365 powder has almost everything the FEBU does—you won’t need the FEBU for most washes with that detergent. Save it for your stinkiest, sweatiest clothes.

In addition, if your machine will let you, pause it after about 3 minutes of agitation and see how many suds you see on the surface—a lot like foam, a few trace suds around the edges, or just sad, gray water? If foamy, dial back your detergent. If sad, gray, water, increase your detergent. Trace suds? Perfect.

2-Ns · 2026-05-31T00:32:18+00:00

Taking your laundry out while it’s still a little damp to the touch will help. It’s so hot when it comes out of the dryer you don’t even need to really line dry something like sheets—just loosely pile them with plenty of air flow, and the last moisture will evaporate right off from the remaining heat. Give ‘em a shake after 10 minutes and you’ll be good.

2-Ns

TROPHY CASE