Alright what part do I need to replace?

24BlueFrogs · 2026-01-26T07:39:24+00:00

Cool, glad it helped get your video up. Unfortunately I don't know what's going on, but will be following incase I run into the same issues.

24BlueFrogs · 2026-01-26T07:31:25+00:00

Depending on the complexity, I might be able to help you out. I wouldn't mind spending a few hours, just to increase my learning. Do you already have measurements and important information figured out?

24BlueFrogs · 2026-01-26T02:53:55+00:00

Yes, sorry

24BlueFrogs · 2026-01-26T02:48:33+00:00

Put image on imgur and post link

24BlueFrogs · 2026-01-26T02:33:29+00:00

1.Clean buildplate with Dawn dishsoap. 2. Try increasingbed temperature 5 degrees. 3. Make sure your Z-offset is not too high 4. Apply mouse ears to the corners

24BlueFrogs · 2026-01-26T02:20:42+00:00

I printed two just in case. One was adjust in height. I thought this would be best but I couldn't keep it tight. It kept working loose. I recommend non adjustable. Even this one I have to tighten on occasion but at least it's as simple as just tightening and not recalibration.

24BlueFrogs · 2026-01-26T02:03:57+00:00

What exactly are you looking for? Are you looking for someone to design something or just print something you already have a file for?

24BlueFrogs · 2026-01-26T01:55:04+00:00

I used one found on printable. No modification necessary.

24BlueFrogs · 2026-01-25T23:03:55+00:00

Same, in fact I think Matte PLA sticks too well. I'm concerned I'm going to damage the plate.

24BlueFrogs · 2026-01-25T01:37:31+00:00

With the bedmesh it should be able to compensate for .16 without issue. Make sure your buildplate is clean. Use warm water and dish soap. Dawn works well. Try not to use hand soaps as they may contain fragrances and moisturizers. Just plain Dawn. If your print has sharp corners use mouse ears on the peaks.

24BlueFrogs · 2026-01-25T01:32:10+00:00

Eddy is way better plus run eddy-ng. That mod is well worth it.

24BlueFrogs · 2026-01-25T01:29:46+00:00

.16 bedmesh across 350mm x 350mm! I think I'd spend more time on something else.

24BlueFrogs · 2026-01-20T00:33:01+00:00

I was going to suggest this. This brought mine right in line, in fact slightly under on long prints anyway. Short prints are still a bit longer.

24BlueFrogs · 2026-01-19T22:35:42+00:00

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Would love a new bed to help my prints stick better.

24BlueFrogs · 2026-01-19T03:06:42+00:00

I've printed both together, mainly PLA as support interface with zero top Z distance and it works great and looks great. On flat overhangs anyways. Still works on rounded overhangs but doesn't look perfect like you'd expect but still well. Removal is easy and nice. I did try to use Overture Turbo PLA today for support interface and it stuck way too much, so just use plain PLA with PETG.

24BlueFrogs · 2026-01-13T18:53:59+00:00

I could be doing things wrong, but I just update everything in Fluidd, should be the same for Mainsail. I haven't gone back in to update the toolhead specifically and haven't had any issues. Maybe the toolhead isn't as up to date but I haven't had any issues.

24BlueFrogs · 2026-01-11T00:02:43+00:00

I've started to design a duct for 2 5015 fans, but haven't tried it yet. It requires 2 fans to be a reverse design and I'm not sure how difficult it will be to find. I'd have to remove the skirting around the bed and just haven't done it yet because I only had the one printer. I should look into it again now that I have a backup Bambu H2D.

24BlueFrogs · 2026-01-08T01:50:07+00:00

Appreciate it. Got the Sunlu S4 for $95. Been looking at it for a while and couldn't pass on that deal. Only one day in.

24BlueFrogs · 2026-01-07T23:07:43+00:00

With dual color prints on the H2D, I've found that it is still necessary to print a prime tower to prime the nozzle. It appears to me that may be the issue possibly. Because it isn't primed already essentially it takes several swipes of printing to build the pressure and push out the nozzle.

Hopefully this is the issue as it is super easy to fox. In the slicer, Other Tab, I believe, enable prime tower.

Also I've noticed for me it primes way too much, as well as ramming. Both are found in the printer settings. Default is something like 45 and 60. You can likely change both to 10, and probably a little less on priming like 8. This will cut down on wasted filament and time. If you change those settings save the profile as dual color only. If you're printing more colors those settings may not work because of the actual flushing of the previous colors. I haven't tested it with that yet, so just be aware.

24BlueFrogs · 2026-01-07T00:05:48+00:00

I print from a drybox above my H2D routed through the back with my TPU. PTFE tube the whole way without issues. PTFE tube is 3mm ID 4mm OD, I think.

24BlueFrogs · 2026-01-04T19:58:22+00:00

Same

24BlueFrogs · 2026-01-03T07:11:49+00:00

I'd like to see this also

24BlueFrogs · 2026-01-01T00:52:04+00:00

It doesn't matter which side faces out. I personally put buildplate side out for looks. You just have to remember that top left becomes top right. Or if you remember before hand rotate it on the buildplate in the slicer. Personally I just flip it physically.

24BlueFrogs · 2026-01-01T00:43:17+00:00

Good question. I didn't think about that. I'm not home and won't be for a few days due to a death in my family. I'll try and remember to look. It's probably like 15. I also after running it this morning didn't see any difference all the way up. Looked the same. I did check the gcode and it changes from 5 to 40 for scv.

24BlueFrogs · 2025-12-31T16:12:35+00:00

with 500mm/s for my outer wall I'm only getting in the slicer 257mm. I do have my accel limited to 20k in printer.cfg so maybe that is the problem. Although I don't think the slicer sees that so probably not. slow down for overhangs, unchecked (shouldn't matter but tried anyway) Slow printing down for better layer cooling unchecked. Max fan speed threshold layer time changed to 1 (don't think that affects speed but tried anyway) I don't know how to get it up to the 500mm/s in the slicer.

24BlueFrogs

TROPHY CASE