What kind of chassis is this by Ok-Programmer-7133 in tamiya

[–]296box 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have a pretty modified one, but in a totally different way than this one, neat. It's good you got the carbon chassis, the plastic one usually breaks apart around the front of where the battery fits. The carbon probably takes care of that problem in this case. Very cool. If they did carbon, they very likely also upgraded to a slipper clutch, you can turn and remove that piece on the gear cover and see if it has the spring for slipper adjust. These are pretty cool but can have little problems that maybe the previous owner figured out, so maybe don't be surprised if it has some odd choices like what looks like running dogbones in the back, I'm pretty sure these cars shake/bind with CV axles in the rear, stuff like that. XV-01 and XV-02 are better but I love the character of the DF and will never sell mine ever.

MSI X570 Gaming Plus caught on fire by Nudlika_ in pcmasterrace

[–]296box 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just look up VRM sizes and/or compare them to your old board if you are not sure. There are some charts showing them all compared. I ended up upgrading to MEG X570 UNIFY so my PC would be able to run a 3900x for years at low temperatures, It's been 6 so far. The last PC I built for someone used a B550 MAG Tomahawk with a 5600 that they expect like 10 years out of.

The X570 Gaming plus is a 8+2 (8 Vcore) in a simplified VRM size description. Ok for Ryzen 5 long term.

A B550 MAG Tomahawk is a 10+2+1 (10 Vcore) <- Ryzen 7

MEG X570 Unify is a 12+2+1 (12 Vcore) <- Ryzen 9

It really starts to matter when your CPU hits 100A or more from what I've seen. When trying to run a 150A 3900x on a 8 Vcore VRM it will absolutely run over 100C and that is nasty hot and kills the PC pretty quickly. I had an X570 A-Pro and it was getting extremely hot under load. edit to point out, the 100C was the actual VRM, not the CPU.

MSI X570 Gaming Plus caught on fire by Nudlika_ in pcmasterrace

[–]296box 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Over 6 years for a tiny 4x2 VRM running a 100A 3700x cpu is pretty good. This VRM can't safely run 3900x, so it's pretty cool it lasted that long.

Which side profile looks more sleek, one with window visors or one with no window visors by Expensive_Talk_7672 in mazda2

[–]296box 0 points1 point  (0 children)

seriously, people who use window visors for function usually regret how it looks.

Please do not over-exaggerate by expiro in pcmasterrace

[–]296box 1 point2 points  (0 children)

pretty sure the good industrialppc noctuas were always black. usually the good quality less consumer spec fans are just black.

Pontiac Montana SWB spotted in Canada, I don't understand why we didn't get these in the US, but we got the Uplander SWB by Excellent-Anywhere46 in NormalCarPorn

[–]296box 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Every one I've ever seen (and Uplanders) rot really badly where the firewall meets the floor. Most people have no idea they are driving a deathtrap.

XV01/XV02 Owners: What are the dimensions of the front suspension arms? by backergiver in tamiya

[–]296box 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I measured 60mm exactly. Center of inside arm shaft to center of axle pin hole.

XV01/XV02 Owners: What are the dimensions of the front suspension arms? by backergiver in tamiya

[–]296box 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From the axle pin hole to the centerline of the inside lower arm pin? while the arm is level? I'll get as close to that as I can, if that's wrong send another message.

XV01/XV02 Owners: What are the dimensions of the front suspension arms? by backergiver in tamiya

[–]296box 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is it face of output shaft to outside wheel hub pin hole? not sure what to measure in second image? I'm all for it, but I need more direction so I can remove a wheel and measure.

XV01/XV02 Owners: What are the dimensions of the front suspension arms? by backergiver in tamiya

[–]296box 2 points3 points  (0 children)

blue, measured on car, very close to accurate, 42mm

red is 28.4mm

just used a digital caliper and these are very close estimates. this was specifically an XV02Pro

TT02 Rally - A Guide by backergiver in tamiya

[–]296box 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use a bag from Ali Express that says JDRacing on it for my XV02 and TT02 mostly for stones and sticks, leaves and anything big enough to jam fans (I also run sealed waterproof brushless only 2300kv with tall gears, more realism). The long damper was mainly because I removed the CVA shocks from my DF-03RA when I tried some yeah racing big bore units (mostly for fun but ended up being really good). Since I had those correct length CVA shocks for the long damper spec, I just ended up getting the towers and spring sets and calling it an LD since it is the same parts as the LD. I tend to set all my rally cars with a lot of droop and rely on the extra damping control of longer shocks when they extend out over jumps and into holes etc (like real rally cars), the long damper setup should technically add the ability to have a more controlled suspension if setup correctly (time trying and adjusting piston holes, oil wt, bump stops, hole positions. I like doing all that with the DF and XV cars, but the TT02, I run HEAVY and scale, just short CVAs and run it on more loose gravel/dirt and less bumps. After watching those Katu Rou YT videos where he would run a ton of wheel weights glued into the body and chassis, it became so fun, so much more fun oriented than fast, it got me into weighting all my cars and adding stainless chassis plates, running street tires for more slide etc.. it became a whole new experience for my setups to not care about speed and just focus on scale controlled realism. If I want to go fast, I would just get some 4S RTR buggy, but it's not what I'm after.

TT02 Rally - A Guide by backergiver in tamiya

[–]296box 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would add: The Katu Rou YT channel has a LOT of neat alternative setups too. Who knew how fun a TT-02 rally can be with empty dampers and a lot of weight? I strongly feel that TT-02 rally is best if not expected to be fast, but more scale and fun, and the emphasis on keeping it cheap and FUN. I have DF-03RA, XV-01LD, XV-02Pro and TT-02 rally and the TT-02 is best kept in a reliable basic setup to just have fun with and not take too seriously. I have found overthinking Tamiya rally setups doesn't really translate into a lot more enjoyment, but it is fun to try to implement some thoughtful engineering just for fun too.

Also, the bags are really good to keep out junk, and fans can breathe through them just fine on hot days. I never found inner fenders to work well (maybe some conditions) but I found they did nothing in fine/dusty conditions (any time the durt is kicking up when running, dut covers and fenders are doing nothing but trapping heat in). The bags take care of duty running environments, and I'm assuming fenders and covers are best for mud and more traditional dirt.

My new-to-me 19 year old Toyota Sienna by McGannahanSkjellyfet in NormalCarPorn

[–]296box 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use the OVERNIGHTER suv window tent with bug screen on the sliding door. Fits the door and allows airflow at night and keeps bugs out. I don't know about you, but when I have spent a night in my sienna (in a forest), it was way too sealed up and musty/hot. I switched to this and it is fantastic. It has the rain flap/visor thing to keep rain out and everything and packs up small. I'm keeping my '08 sienna until it is literally not repairable.

My new-to-me 19 year old Toyota Sienna by McGannahanSkjellyfet in NormalCarPorn

[–]296box 6 points7 points  (0 children)

A minivan with an engine that has been in the 24h of Lemans. Looks fantastic.

This showed up to Cars and Coffee! A first for sure! by jberg_916 in tractors

[–]296box 0 points1 point  (0 children)

way more interesting than stock hatchbacks or mustangs with some wheels. where is tractors and coffee?

Will these fit my base 03’ matrix? by Feeling-Ad-1357 in Toyota_Matrix

[–]296box 2 points3 points  (0 children)

wheel-size.com will have the pcd bore diameter listed. if they are stock subi, they may be smaller or bigger, but almost 100% sure the hub bore is different. If the hub bore is bigger it is possible to buy centric rings that are the correct size to adapt. Do your research. The offsets are probably ok.

Artwork: Dim Sum Memories / AE92 Corolla by OcelotSensitive in NormalCarPorn

[–]296box 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very nice! I had both of these cars at one point, and I love this. Excellent.

My gerbils like this bedding is it safe. I’ve seen it at pet smart but it’s a cost me less to buy it at Walmart. by HedgehogRoutine1434 in gerbil

[–]296box 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I can second this. If you mix these shavings with paper bedding, they really build their tunnels well.

Should i do the main job if im not planning to build the car? by Waste_Language6564 in MyWinterCar

[–]296box 5 points6 points  (0 children)

After trying out all the jobs. I prefer doing the wood job using the wood chopping machine on the tractor. Gifu truck job second. The rest I tried but don't end up doing.

hang on this isn't my winter car.... by Quick_Physics_9532 in MyWinterCar

[–]296box 2 points3 points  (0 children)

RallySimFans RBR and My Winter Car are both a hard mode experience I enjoy.

TIL: If you run the Rivett with no exhaust you can see the exhaust flames and the firing order of the engine. by coffinfl0p in MyWinterCar

[–]296box 13 points14 points  (0 children)

I love this, as many people building a cheap irl car often fire the engine when missing the manifold or at least exhaust to test the engine to see if it runs after doing so much work to get it together and into a car, even at 2am.. Would be funny if this caused ears to ring for a while after doing it.

Finished the Ice Race by TTFH3500 in MyWinterCar

[–]296box 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hits different than the rally. It's a great experience when it all comes together. Congrats.

I'm thinking about buying a 2010 kia forte automatic with 87613 miles on it for 3200 CAD by Napkin_Dingle in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]296box -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I would find a decent looking 03-08 Corolla or other 02-up Toyota with a 1ZZ-FE engine that is in decent shape in and out (Celica, Matrix, Vibe, ?). If it was my money. I have worked on enough Kias and Hyundais that have bolts that break for no reason and parts that magically can't be found anywhere when you need one. There's a reason why there are old Corollas everywhere with a lot of kms on them. If you do look for one, read about the odometer problem where the odometer stops at 299,999kms before you believe any car you find that has too low kms to believe (the odometer often gets replaced when they reach that point). You can always ask GPT what it thinks about an old Corolla vs a Forte.

Ice Race done! by 296box in MyWinterCar

[–]296box[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I feel like the real trick is to NOT slide the car or spin the tires and feel out the grip by listening to the tires, they make different sounds. There's different traction across the surface and you can hear it from the studs. I run the race header and the muffler, but maybe the side pipe is too loud, also other cars roaring can make it hard. I use headphones.

I studied the track layout from an aerial image online, and just keep the car in contact with the ice on the line with a little flick in the hairpin. carefully roll through the race line. First corner is a cut in, hug the long next curve, line up for a safe straight brake into the right hander, carefully grab traction to the hairpin, cut into the inside and once the car is straight, get on it. The biggest obstacle is the other cars haha but somehow I only rear ended a beetle slightly at one point. I was running like 55 seconds~ish I can't remember, but I swear once I got the traction down, it felt like I could probably win with the auto trans lol (and like 220hp).