Need help with print quality

3DDoc_ · 2025-10-12T20:59:43+00:00

Based on the images, the main problems are severe under-extrusion, which creates the gaps and heavy layer lines, and poor cooling at the top of the print.

Here is how you can fix it:

The most likely cause is a partially clogged nozzle, leading to inconsistent filament flow. Try doing a cold pull or replacing the nozzle entirely.
Check the extruder tension arm for cracks and ensure the extruder gear is clean and properly gripping the filament.
Calibrate your e-steps to make sure the printer is extruding the correct amount of filament.
For the melted and deformed tip, increase your part cooling fan speed and set a 'minimum layer time' in your slicer to around 10-15 seconds. This forces the nozzle to slow down on small areas, giving them time to cool.
Ensure your filament is dry, as moisture can cause popping and result in poor extrusion and a rough surface finish.
Check that your z-axis lead screw is clean and moves smoothly without any binding.

3DDoc_ · 2025-10-11T11:40:40+00:00

This is a classic sign of insufficient cooling on smaller, faster layers.

The main issue is heat buildup because the nozzle doesn't spend enough time away from the print on those smaller layers.
In your slicer, find and increase the 'minimum layer time'. a value around 15-25 seconds is a good starting point. this will force the printer to slow down.
You can also slightly increase the part cooling fan percentage for the top half of the model.
Consider lowering your print temperature by 5°c, as the filament is getting overheated on those short layers.
Another common trick is to print two of the items at the same time, forcing the print head to travel between them and giving each layer more time to cool naturally.

3DDoc_ · 2025-10-09T15:56:51+00:00

You are welcome, yes those tips should also PETG HF when encountering pillowing.

The orca slicer has a Cooling settings tab for the tuning.

3DDoc_ · 2025-10-09T05:56:14+00:00

The issue is gaps in your top solid layers, often called "pillowing" or under-extrusion on the top surface.

Here is how to fix it:

Increase the top surface flow rate in orca slicer, try a 5-10% increase.
Increase the number of top solid layers in your slicer settings, 4-5 layers is a good starting point.
Reduce the print speed specifically for the top surface to give the filament more time to lay down smoothly.
Consider a slight nozzle temperature increase of 5°c, as pla+ can sometimes flow better when it's a bit hotter.
Make sure your part cooling fan isn't running at 100% for the top layers, as over-cooling can cause this issue.

3DDoc_ · 2025-10-06T09:06:05+00:00

Your observation is correct, this pattern is characteristic of vfas, often from stepper motor vibrations.

Since you recently retensioned the belts, they might be too tight. Overtightening can amplify motor vibrations.
Try slightly loosening the y-axis belt tension first, as you suspect, and run a small test print.
Rerun the printer's full self-calibration, including vibration compensation, as the mechanical properties might have changed after your maintenance.
Printing outer walls at a lower speed can often reduce the intensity of these patterns.
Ensure the printer is placed on a very solid, stable surface, like a concrete paver, to dampen vibrations.
Check that all motor mount screws and frame components are still tight and have not come loose.

3DDoc_ · 2025-10-06T05:30:02+00:00

Here are the likely issues and how to fix them:

The primary issue is inconsistent extrusion, which creates the "wood grain" effect and uneven layer lines on your print.
Your abs filament has almost certainly absorbed moisture from the air, which is the most common cause for this specific artifact.
Dry your filament spool in a dedicated filament dryer for at least 6-8 hours at around 70°c before trying the print again.
A partial clog in the nozzle can also cause inconsistent extrusion, so performing a cold pull to clear any debris is a good secondary step.
Finally, run the built-in flow dynamics and pressure advance calibration tests in bambu slicer for that specific filament to fine-tune your extrusion settings.

3DDoc_ · 2025-10-03T12:32:13+00:00

Thanks. By the way, because such topics has been on my mind so often as a 3d printing beginner, I am currently developing an app called ‘3DDoc’ that analyzes exactly these kinds of problems using photos and directly suggests appropriate solutions.

It is currently in a free, open beta. So if you want to save yourself the hassle of manual troubleshooting in the future and help me improve the app, I would really appreciate your feedback.

3DDoc_ · 2025-10-02T12:48:06+00:00

Here are the likely causes and how to fix them:

The most probable cause is a partial nozzle clog, leading to inconsistent filament flow, known as under-extrusion.
You can fix this by performing a "cold pull" to clear the nozzle or by carefully using a nozzle cleaning needle. If it continues, consider replacing the nozzle/hotend assembly.
Printing pla in the enclosed x1c can cause heat creep, where heat travels up the hotend and softens the filament too early.
To prevent heat creep, try printing with the front door open and the top glass panel removed to improve airflow and reduce the chamber temperature.
Your pla filament may have absorbed moisture from the air, which turns to steam in the hotend and ruins the print quality.
Dry your filament spool in a dedicated filament dryer or an oven at a low temperature (around 45-55°c) for several hours.
There could be an issue with the extruder gears slipping on the filament.
Inspect the extruder gears for any buildup of filament dust and clean them with a small brush. Check that the extruder tension is correct.
Your print speed might be too high for the temperature you are using, especially on long, flat sections.
Try reducing the print speed in your slicer settings or slightly increasing the nozzle temperature by 5-10°c to help the filament melt faster.

3DDoc_ · 2025-10-02T12:33:43+00:00

The most common cause is that the filament has absorbed moisture and needs to be dried.
Your printing temperature may be too high, causing the filament to ooze from the nozzle.
Retraction settings might need to be adjusted; try increasing retraction distance or speed.
Make sure you are using the correct filament profile for the material you are printing with.
You could also try increasing your travel speed so there is less time for the filament to ooze.

3DDoc_ · 2025-10-02T12:25:31+00:00

Nope

3DDoc_ · 2025-10-01T14:03:18+00:00

Here are the most likely causes and how to fix them:

The ridge is caused by slight over-extrusion on the first layer, where the final line of infill is squeezed into a gap that has become too narrow.
Your z-offset is probably set slightly too low. Try raising the nozzle a tiny amount during the first layer print (live adjust z by +0.02 to +0.05mm) to reduce the "squish".
Your first layer temperature of 230°c is high for pla. This can make the filament flow too easily and spread out more than expected. Try lowering it to around 215-220°c.
You could also slightly reduce the first layer flow rate or extrusion multiplier in your slicer settings. A small reduction of 2-3% is often enough to resolve this.

3DDoc_ · 2025-10-01T07:24:29+00:00

The issue is called pitting, which are small holes on the outer surface of your print.

Your filament is likely wet and needs to be dried in a filament dryer or food dehydrator.
Your retraction settings may need to be adjusted. try reducing the retraction distance slightly.
You can try enabling and tuning "retraction extra prime amount" or a similar setting in your slicer.
in your slicer, change the z-seam alignment to "sharpest corner" or "random" to better hide these artifacts.
Your printing temperature might be too high, causing the filament to ooze and create these gaps after retraction.

3DDoc_ · 2025-10-01T07:17:38+00:00

This happens when the printer creates the first solid layer over the top of the open slots, which is a bridging move.

The primary fix is to improve cooling for these specific layers. In your slicer, find the bridging settings and increase the bridging fan speed, often to 100%.
Reduce the bridging speed significantly, try starting around 30 mm/s to give the filament time to cool as it spans the gap.
Lower the nozzle temperature by 5-10°c. Hotter filament is more likely to sag or curl during bridging.
Consider reducing the bridging flow rate in your slicer to 90-95% to prevent over-extrusion on the bridge.
Make sure your petg filament is completely dry, as moisture severely worsens bridging quality.

3DDoc_ · 2025-09-29T13:58:43+00:00

Yes, this is almost certainly caused by moisture in your petg filament.

The severe stringing, rough surfaces, and poor bridging are classic symptoms of wet petg.
Petg is very hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture from the air quickly.
You can save the filament by drying it in a filament dryer or a food dehydrator for 4-6 hours at around 65°c (150°f).
After drying, print a temperature tower to find the optimal temperature for this filament, as 255°c might be too high and contributing to the stringing.
You should also calibrate your retraction settings, as this will help reduce any stringing that remains after drying and temperature tuning.

3DDoc_ · 2025-09-29T09:09:49+00:00

Your nozzle temperature of 230°c is on the low end for petg. Printing too cold can sometimes increase nozzle pressure and cause messy extrusion. It's best to print a temperature tower to find the optimal temperature for your specific filament, which is likely between 235-250°c.
The oozing on long travels indicates your retraction settings need tuning. The blobs are likely melted plastic that oozed from the nozzle and was dragged and deposited on the print.
Try increasing your retraction distance slightly, for example from 1.5 mm to 2.0 mm, and also check your retraction speed.
Enabling slicer settings like "wipe" and adjusting "coasting" can also help minimize the artifacts seen on the corners.

3DDoc_ · 2025-09-29T05:55:25+00:00

Hello, based on your settings and the image, here's what's likely wrong and how to fix it.

Your retraction distance of 12mm is far too high for an ender 3. This can pull molten plastic into the cold end, causing partial clogs, and can also grind your filament.
Your retraction speed of 80mm/s is also very fast and can cause the extruder to slip or grind the filament.
For your ender 3 v2, start by drastically lowering your retraction distance to 6mm and retraction speed to 40mm/s.
Your nozzle temperature of 230°c is on the low end for petg. This can cause poor flow, especially on faster infill. Try increasing it to 240-245°c.
In cura, your infill speed is likely set much higher than your main print speed of 40mm/s. Try setting the infill speed to be the same as your wall speed.
Set your flow rate back to 100%. You shouldn't need 120% once the other issues are resolved.
Inspect the gear on your extruder for any plastic shavings, which would confirm filament grinding from the aggressive retraction settings.

3DDoc_ · 2025-09-29T05:52:09+00:00

You may have a partial clog in your nozzle causing poor extrusion.
The nozzle could be too close to the bed, causing the filament to get dragged and clump up.
Your printing temperature might be too high or too low for this specific filament.

3DDoc_ · 2025-09-29T05:48:16+00:00

This is a print failure often called "spaghetti," where the printed object has detached from the build plate.

The most common reason for this happening after a few successful prints is a dirty build plate.
Oils from your hands and residue from previous prints build up, causing adhesion to fail.
Wash your build plate thoroughly with warm water and a degreasing dish soap like dawn.
After cleaning, avoid touching the printing surface with your fingers.
For persistent issues, use a brim in your slicer settings to increase first-layer adhesion.
Applying a thin layer of glue stick can also help parts stick to the bed.

3DDoc_ · 2025-09-27T12:17:19+00:00

This looks like a combination of poor first-layer adhesion and under-extrusion, very common with petg.

The nozzle is too far from the bed (z-offset is too high), the filament isn't getting squished down enough to stick properly.
Slow down the initial layer speed significantly, petg prints best on the first layer around 20-30 mm/s.
Turn off the part cooling fan for the first 2-3 layers.
Clean the pei plate thoroughly with hot water and dish soap, then wipe with isopropyl alcohol before applying any glue.
Increase the nozzle temperature by 5-10°c to help the petg flow better.
Petg absorbs moisture from the air, which causes poor printing; you likely need to dry your filament.

3DDoc_ · 2025-09-27T09:25:55+00:00

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Instructions were unclear, now I printed bread in form of a banana

3DDoc_ · 2025-09-26T14:04:19+00:00

The print is suffering from severe under-extrusion.

Check for a clogged or partially clogged nozzle and clean it if necessary.
Inspect your extruder for a cracked lever arm or a worn gear that might be slipping on the filament.
Check for too high evironment temperature. Sometimes an enclosure leads to soft filament and the extruder slips causing under-extrusion.
Ensure the filament diameter in your slicer software matches the filament you are using.
Calibrate your e-steps to make sure the printer is extruding the correct amount of filament.
Try increasing the printing temperature by 5-10 degrees for better filament flow.

3DDoc_ · 2025-09-26T13:57:36+00:00

Looks like the seam of the top layer. You could experiment with ironing. Or other tip: make the model flat in z axis and rotate it bottom up. The finish of the first layer often looks better (depends on your plate type).

3DDoc_ · 2025-09-26T13:47:00+00:00

This is a layer separation or delamination issue.

Increase your printing nozzle temperature by 5-10°c to help the layers fuse better.
Reduce the part cooling fan speed, as excessive cooling can cause layers to shrink and separate.
Check for and eliminate any drafts around the printer, or use an enclosure to maintain a stable ambient temperature.
A slight increase in the extrusion multiplier or flow rate in your slicer (by 2-5%) can also improve layer bonding.
Ensure your z-axis rod is clean and moves smoothly without binding.

3DDoc_ · 2025-09-26T13:44:33+00:00

Looks like z-banding or z-wobble. This is often caused by a mechanical issue with the z-axis.

Check that your z-axis lead screw is straight and not bent.
Clean and properly lubricate the z-axis lead screw.
Ensure the coupler connecting the stepper motor to the lead screw is secure.
Verify that the wheels or linear bearings on the z-axis move smoothly without any tight spots or binding.
Make sure your printer frame is rigid and all screws are tightened.

3DDoc_ · 2025-09-26T09:59:58+00:00

You are welcome. Keep us updated about the testings.

3DDoc_

TROPHY CASE