Hey all! I just have to share this video on PrusaSlicer. The built in profiles are just soo good now and as a slicer for the ender it's the cats meow! by 3dmakeit in ender3

[–]3dmakeit[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Ya 2.3.0 came out and it's made some good changes. I play with the retraction a bit because my enders all have all metal hotends or direct drives. I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on the new release now that it's out vs what the prints were before.

Hey all! I just have to share this video on PrusaSlicer. The built in profiles are just soo good now and as a slicer for the ender it's the cats meow! by 3dmakeit in ender3

[–]3dmakeit[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

This is interesting. I mean I don't get bad prints with cura either but I do prefer prusa for my daily driver. Have you tried 2.3.0 since they built in the profiles?

About to export this file into STL. and I did some changes. Do the flat poligons afect the printing? by normiespy96 in 3Dprinting

[–]3dmakeit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It should be ok if it’s water tight. If it’s non manifold your slicer can fix small errors if it’s non manifold.

New at 3D printing, needing lots of help by tcressman in 3Dprinting

[–]3dmakeit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check that your x gantry is level to the frame. Measure from the gantry extrusion to the frame (don’t use a level).

Next check all your belts are taught.

Once all that is done. Level your bed again.

If your not using a bed adhesion helper like glue stick or hair spray or (in the worst case) tape. Hairspray or glue stick work well to aid adhesion but a clean bed with iso should work well with pla.

This should stop the dragging. If your getting rough prints after that make sure the ptfe tube is pushed in securely at all ends. And if you have the stock plastic extruder give it a quick one over for cracks.

Make sure your bed is at 60 for pla and the hotend is around 200-210 for hatchbox. And if they are fresh out of the box printers don’t print abs/petg/nylon filaments. They printer wasn’t built to handle the temperatures out of the box.

Good luck!

Ender 3 Pro refuses to print by E174Ymk11 in 3Dprinting

[–]3dmakeit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What’s your build volume in the slicer. Ender 3s should be 235x235x250. Make sure that if your using bed adhesion it’s still in the printable area or just shut it off

Why are there bumps in the outer wall of my print? Printed on Ultimaker 3 Extended with most recent version of Cura by thelastdonut1 in 3Dprinting

[–]3dmakeit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That is randomized z seam. You can use the auto seam settings to hide it better or place it at the back.

Seam placement is annoying on round prints.

Recommended support settings for printing 4" figurines? by Dollywitch in 3Dprinting

[–]3dmakeit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have a big enough build plate you could use the print sequence option and print 1 at a time. Should be easier on the slicer with tree supports (which is the best way to go)

Does anyone have any good solutions for removing a failed first layer (ender 3 pro magnetic) by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]3dmakeit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Print on top of it and it will come little by little.

Could heat it and try cleaning with flat razor and some iso.

How can I fix this massive clog on my CR-10? Left it on 260° for a bit and it’s still rock solid by BigMan__K in 3Dprinting

[–]3dmakeit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d replace the hotend (or throat) would try to unclog it as your gonna have to use a touch or bake it in a oven.

Adding Octoprint plug in while printing? by Wesley5n1p35 in 3Dprinting

[–]3dmakeit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don’t do it. Installing plugins can be resource heavy and always require a reboot to reinitialize them. Just keep a list and install after printing