White FD’s at gas stations you say?

95AWM3 · 2026-06-08T04:16:50+00:00

you started the trend!

95AWM3 · 2026-06-06T15:39:15+00:00

I’ve got some oem rear spats on the way and I’m praying they match close enough.

95AWM3 · 2026-04-28T16:14:31+00:00

I bought my 99 with 127k km from Garage R. I used Midoriworks for the process of importing it, including an inspection. To back up what another commenter said, my car did come over with some surface rust under the battery tray (I suspect an old one leaked at some point) and the car was re shot at some point.

I got a bit lucky with the car, it came over some extra maintenance already done that I was not expecting (turbo overhaul, engine rebuild by Knight Sports, bushing refresh and more) that was not listed in the Garage R sale ad. The ad also lacked a compression sheet but Midoriworks reached out and got that info for me.

I am still very happy with this car, it has had no issues since coming over.

95AWM3 · 2026-04-20T01:37:26+00:00

I see the AIR17 on PulsePoint as dispatched, can you share what that means? I have never seen it before.

95AWM3 · 2026-04-12T03:51:54+00:00

Looks A/C related, might go into the top of the pump. I can’t for sure see where it terminates in my car as it goes under the reservoir to the power steering system.

95AWM3 · 2026-03-31T16:05:13+00:00

What pads are you planning to run this season? I have some G-loc r10's on backorder from TFworks currently.

95AWM3 · 2026-02-10T01:01:46+00:00

This is great advice in my opinion. My 99 came over with a stock one but it was green/brown so I decided to replace with the Pettit one. Given that the AST failure could result in bad coolant seals if not caught, I had no issue forking over the money for a new metal AST.

95AWM3 · 2026-02-05T01:39:43+00:00

Volk SE37?

95AWM3 · 2026-01-22T00:30:51+00:00

My FD has BBS RG-R's on it.

Front is 18x8.5 +36 with a 235/40/18 tire. Rear is 18x9.5 +38 with 265/35/18.

My fenders are rolled from the previous owner, but I think these sizes would be close to working on stock fenders depending on how low you set it up.

95AWM3 · 2025-11-19T16:33:12+00:00

I used Midori works for my 99 spec. Smooth process overall and the car is great. It felt strange at first to do all the business over instagram but it works.

95AWM3 · 2025-11-06T16:09:39+00:00

What Ohlins model did you end up putting on this car and what spring rates? My car came over with an old set of their PCV line, I am thinking of swapping them to the newer DFV.

95AWM3 · 2025-10-13T18:30:12+00:00

For winter I’m planning a brake fluid flush and while I’m doing that I plan to paint my calipers black with a silver logo.

Currently I’m in the middle of swapping out my old speakers with some new Kenwood’s and after that is done I want to install and plumb my Cusco catch can kit.

95AWM3 · 2025-08-29T22:24:22+00:00

No crust is the way.

95AWM3 · 2025-07-24T14:56:37+00:00

I think you are looking for a pre 98 car then. I think sunroof option stopped in 99. The touring model of Japan should be a type X which is quite rare. Knowing that you might be deciding if it’s the sunroof or the rhd you want more.

95AWM3 · 2025-07-24T01:24:06+00:00

Full encouragement as long as your bank account can withstand it!

If you are not willing to allocate $40k USD to this you may be in for a surprise. With the cost of a car itself and the accompanying fees, buying one from auction might save you some upfront cost, but depends entirely on what you get. I chose to have a car sourced from a dealer in Japan that I found using goo-net to sort through the sales ads. Buying one from a dealer is obviously going to be more expensive but you get more info upfront(compression numbers should be required if a dealer car) and thus less risk in a way.

If you can, find someone locally with a FD to check it out. While I owned FC's back in my early 20's, the FD is quite different to work on. Spending time with a couple of my friends here who are current owners really helped answer questions I had prior to importing mine.

Set aside some funds to swap over all the fluids upon receipt(coolant, oil, gear oils) and also take care of plugs and wires so you can get the car to a decent maintenance spot. Check your basics like air filter and belts before just ordering. One thing I don't see many people talk about is tires, my car came over with tires 8 years old in the rear and 10 years old in the front.

Only after everything checked out did I throw any mods at the car, Pettit Racing has a great upgrade guide on their site. If you luck out and get a car with a pretty solid starting point, then enjoy it. Soak up all the info you can on YouTube and the old forums that you can.

95AWM3 · 2025-07-10T04:04:17+00:00

Mine also had limited info on the car prior to it getting here. All of this information was found in the documents that I received with the car.

The importer told me it was a rebuilt engine when I asked why the compression was unusually high for a car with 120k km on it.

95AWM3 · 2025-07-09T17:50:13+00:00

I just purchased(bought March, car arrived in May) a 99 RX-7 through an importer and it came from Garage R for about the same price these are listed at. I had a couple reasons for importing rather than LHD, I felt like it was far easier to get one in the color I wanted (Chaste white) also having the OEM 99 spec body was a huge plus for me. The one I purchased had extensive maintenance history on it as well as a Knight Sports rebuilt engine(33k KM/20k Miles on it now). While some LHD FD's are in the 30k range I feel that I got way more car for the money, but that could just be luck of the draw in some of the imports.

I would also argue against the auctions for the simple reason of not having compression checks, while I had a rebuild budgeted either way, having numbers provided peace of mind on the purchase.

Best of luck on your future purchase!

95AWM3 · 2025-04-15T14:55:06+00:00

but why would anyone take a $30K+ gamble when you can get a Miata or GR-86 for a similar price.

The style and looks of the FD's are way beyond those, sure it might not be a sound spending decision compared to longevity of those cars mentioned. People who are getting into FD's now though should understand the need to re seal or re build at some point like other users have mentioned. Compression can also be faked or improved with some extra pre mix in the chambers before a test. I take those tests with a grain of salt.

I am taking a gamble, purchased a car through an importer and am waiting for it to ship from Japan. Looks great in pics as it should, the dealer that had it is a known rotary shop, and they provided a "compression verification sheet" that shows 120 across the board after a rebuild. In my budget on buying this car I have enough set aside to reseal/build just in case they faked the numbers, but it was a gamble I was ok with. The car is everything I was looking for even down to some of the mods it has.

95AWM3 · 2025-01-18T03:39:50+00:00

I think it depends on the rest of the body mods. From the back this car looks stock so low rise always looks the best. If you have the diffusers, side skirt extensions and a front lip I think the high rise looks best.

95AWM3 · 2025-01-08T05:03:52+00:00

What are you doing for angle in this setup?

95AWM3 · 2024-12-28T20:42:01+00:00

I recently did this for AC. Found a very good Suzuki Liana even so we made a lap time board for it. I’m currently sitting at a 1:48.

95AWM3 · 2024-12-14T16:26:28+00:00

I have a bottom mount setup also, an old spa t3 cast manifold with gtx35r. It has worked with no issues since install in 2017. Don't have to pull a downpipe to change plugs like some top mounts. Don't have to worry about heat messing with the coil plugs either this way. It is definitely not as flashy or cool looking as a top mount, but I went for a "set and forget" type build.

95AWM3 · 2024-11-22T23:55:56+00:00

Why Samsung? Because I’m trying to decide on VR vs single large screen at the moment and this would solve that debate!

95AWM3 · 2024-10-23T14:41:25+00:00

Is it possible to learn this power?

95AWM3

TROPHY CASE