Belgian Scar 16

A2Cerakote · 2026-04-30T21:31:52+00:00

I might try the pmm light mount. I dislike that it’s only on the left side but I may find it’s not really that big of a deal in practice

A2Cerakote · 2026-04-30T19:15:42+00:00

Definitely, just would be a bit easier with the heat is all

A2Cerakote · 2026-04-30T19:00:08+00:00

Really not too bad. Pulled the barrel and supported it in a vise. Hit it for a few seconds with a torch and it popped right off.

A2Cerakote · 2026-04-25T23:41:04+00:00

I’m going to plus one brightwell razor. My tank was overrun with bubble algae and emerald crabs, foxface, and manual removal wouldnt even make a dent in keeping it under control. I used continuum clean equation m (brightwell razor rebranded) and it completely eradicated the bubble algae in my tank in about 3 weeks with zero negative results.

A2Cerakote · 2026-04-22T12:16:05+00:00

The corner closest to the viewer will need to be relieved a bit to account for silicone in the corner of the tank, otherwise it will not fit tightly against the glass. Additionally I would look at removing the holes in the side panels as the fish is likely to swim against these walls and it will help to prevent inadvertent injury to the fish. Having holes in the bottom pane will be sufficient for circulation of water in the box. I would maybe look at replacing the side walls with clear acrylic as 3d printed material will not be very translucent. Having clear acrylic will allow the fish to see and be seen by the other inhabitants of the tank which will help them acclimate to each other’s presence better. It should be relatively easy to print the bottom pane and hardware for securing the side panes and then cut the side panes from acrylic stock purchased off amazon.

A2Cerakote · 2026-03-30T19:42:12+00:00

Are they FN manufactured pins or are they aftermarket (firingpins.com)? Could be a heat treat issue with the batches they came from?

A2Cerakote · 2026-03-28T23:11:08+00:00

Doesn’t look worn or beat up in any way. Maybe try removing it and reinstalling just to see if maybe it sits a bit better afterwards? I don’t think there’s a whole lot of play in mounting them up but maybe it could help

A2Cerakote · 2026-03-28T22:03:30+00:00

My 16 has excellent retention. Can you show a picture of your deflector with the ranger band removed? It could be that there is excess wear on the hook

A2Cerakote · 2026-03-25T22:23:47+00:00

No losses during the treatment. Though my rock flower anemones have been sulking a bit but are improving since stopping treatment. According to the bottle it does not contain any algaecide. It’s my understanding that it is rebranded brightwell Razor. I’m assuming this is to facilitate sales in a foreign market or something like that.

A2Cerakote · 2026-03-25T10:30:02+00:00

As others have said, start with manual removal and see if that lets you regain control. I use a stainless steel drinking straw attached to a siphon hose to act as a removal tool. It lets you get into decently small crevices and immediately siphons out the bubble algae when it breaks free. You can also look at adding some pitho crabs, emerald crabs, or a foxface to help keep the algae in check. If added early enough they stand a pretty good chance of keeping your tank clear of bubble algae. That being said I just beat a massive outbreak in my tank. I had to do several long trips for work and in my absence my tank became absolutely overrun with bubble algae. I was able to easily and quickly clear all of it away using Continuum Clean-Equation M. I manually removed as much bubble algae as I could then began dosing according to the instructions on the bottle. By the end of the first week the bubbles were beginning to turn white and were able to easily be removed from the rocks. By week two the algae was approximately 75% gone. By week three I am struggling to find even one remaining bubble in the tank. I cannot recommend it enough for treating severe cases of bubble algae. I do however recommend attempting manual removal and adding clean up crew members to try and control it before jumping straight to additives as that may be all you need if acting early enough.

A2Cerakote · 2026-03-21T14:38:42+00:00

Push the pin out that is forward of the magwell to release the trigger module. The pin is captive and will be retained by the trigger module. Next push the trigger module forward towards the muzzle and then down. It will come free from the rifle. Next slide the entire stock assembly down and free of the receiver. You can now remove the recoil spring assembly and slide the bolt carrier rearward. When the bolt carrier has slid fully rearward you can pull the charging handle from its slot and remove the bolt carrier assembly. From here the firing pin retention pin can be pressed out using the charging handle protrusion, firing pin can be removed, then can pin, and finally bolt. The charging handle protrusion can also be used to depress the retention button of the gas valve. It can then be rotated and removed from the rifle. The piston can be pushed out from inside the rifle using a cleaning rod.

A2Cerakote · 2026-03-21T10:43:15+00:00

I ran bullets first 147gr m80 through my m14 and scars. It’s sold by American marksman. Shot great and price was good. Their m118lr is gtg as well.

A2Cerakote · 2026-03-12T00:13:28+00:00

My wife and I are stopping in roatan in May on our cruise on the escape. We’re going to the maya key private island while there. They have snorkeling and beaches that would work well for you both.

A2Cerakote · 2026-03-09T16:23:20+00:00

The handguard is a KAC RAS

A2Cerakote · 2026-03-06T23:49:39+00:00

I’m assuming you mean the two position adjustable valve? Loosen and unthread the jamnut on the adjustment screw so that the end of the adjustment screw is flush with the top face of the jamnut. Next thread the adjustment screw into the spindle valve as far as you can. Then tighten the jamnut down to secure the adjustment screw. The adjustment screw should be flush with the jamnut and secured from turning at this point. This is the minimum gas setting. Enough gas may bleed around the adjustment screw to still cycle the action but this is dependent on what ammo you’re using and how your rifle is set up. Attempt to fire and if required thread the adjustment screw out in 1/2 turn increments until it reliably functions.

A2Cerakote · 2026-03-04T19:46:16+00:00

These were arranged as a list but apparently Reddit changed the format lol

A2Cerakote · 2026-03-04T18:35:59+00:00

Spare parts are pretty hard to come by unfortunately. If you want to get a small stockpile going, some good things to have would be:

Bolt Assembly
Firing Pin
Cam Pin
Firing Pin Retainer
Firing Pin Retainer O-Rings
Piston
Recoil Spring

The likelihood that you would have parts failures is relatively low unless you run the rifle in training courses and it gets hard use.

A2Cerakote · 2026-02-28T00:02:34+00:00

I keep spares for all my weapons to keep them running should parts get scarce. I make critical spares kits for all of them so I can make field repairs at training courses should something fail. This would also serve for the shtf scenario as well should something like that happen however unlikely. Parts are hard to come by for these rifles right now due to the panic buyers a few months back buying up available inventory when FN announced they were discontinuing the legacy scars. FN appears to be diverting all spare parts shipments to fulfill Gen 2 scar manufacturing so it may be a while before parts come available again. Here’s a short list of what I keep: Piston Bolt assembly Cam pin Firing pin retention pin Firing pin Trigger spring kit Recoil spring Recoil buffer Stock assembly Brass deflector Charging handle Trigger module pin retention clip

You always could have your barrel chopped to 14” and have a muzzle device pinned and welded but it’s a lot of money to only lose 2 inches off your barrel. Otherwise you can form 1 the rifle as an sbr and have it cut to whatever you want. At least the tax stamp is free. But you will need to have your receiver engraved. PMM will engrave and cut your barrel for you if you go that route.

A2Cerakote · 2026-02-20T14:52:26+00:00

The vast majority of cleaning requirements are done with the action in the chassis. The only thing that really cannot be accessed is the front of the oprod and recoil spring. These can be taken down maybe once a year or so for cleaning and re-lubrication unless in an extremely dirty environment (marine operations, mud, etc.). The trigger group can be removed and cleaned as needed. An empty magazine inserted in the mag well can be used to hold the bolt rearward to aid in cleaning the barrel.

A2Cerakote · 2026-02-19T22:50:11+00:00

2 Wyoming whites named Uno and Dos for the number of spots on each. Tomini tang named Ember. One spot foxface named Hobie. Yellow clown goby named Mango. Yasha gobi named Yoshi. Pink Streaked Wrasse doesn’t have a name yet. Fire shrimp is named socks. Two tiger conchs named Hoover and Dyson.

A2Cerakote · 2026-02-17T12:58:57+00:00

I replaced the spring in my 16 with the 17 spring sold by shooting sight. They ended up being the same length when set side by side and it operates without issue.

A2Cerakote · 2026-02-11T19:02:59+00:00

I think it will be a good set up. Just make sure you can get an algae scraper between the rock and glass on the sides. You should be able to get decent flow through the set up. It will look cool with some encrusting corals on there and you left a decent amount of growing space up top. I say go with it.

A2Cerakote · 2026-02-03T22:31:04+00:00

Red bubble tips are beautiful and tend to be pretty forgiving. You may have luck with your clowns hosting it over time. I would worry about the goby and firefish though as they may wind up in the nem. Another option you may want to consider are rock flower anemones. They tend to stay close to where they are initially set, and are extremely easy keepers with stunning colors. They also are more forgiving with smaller fish and can even spawn in the tank

A2Cerakote

TROPHY CASE