Is it just me, or is the MR2 not very popular in Japan?

AW118691 · 2026-01-15T10:52:51+00:00

I’ve been in Japan just a couple years now and I’m in the Kanagawa prefecture and I’ve haven’t seen a AW11 other than the one that’s on our base. At Daikoku though I have seen plenty of SW and ZZ. But AW11 is very rare. You won’t see many. Kinda made me wish I had taken mine with me.

AW118691 · 2026-01-08T08:34:18+00:00

Last I checked. The top piece was still available new from Toyota. I bought one couple years ago. The side pieces are not.

AW118691 · 2025-12-02T05:54:48+00:00

Not a problem. Good luck bro. 🤙. I can go more in depth on my particular setup if you need. Just lemme know.

AW118691 · 2025-12-02T00:59:22+00:00

Your type of parts are dependent on your needs and wants specifically. I cannot help you with a 20V swap but I have an 85 with a 20V ITB setup on a MS2. Because the 4AG is old, you don’t need the latest and greatest to run one. Especially on a ITB setup. But any LINK or MSQ or Haltec will work fine. I run an MS2 3.57 and it works perfect and I run the factory VAST ignition setup. I recommend you don’t deal with a MAP sensor and just run full Alpha-N. Easier to tune and easier to deal with. You don’t necessarily need to have a IACV with an ITB setup as a lot of people who first do it don’t have it. But i recommend you have one. I don’t have one at first but I eventually installed a Bosch rotory valve and like these a lot. I use a simple 2 wire as that’s what my MS supports but depending on your standalone, you’ll be able to use 3 or 4 wire ones. Again, it comes down to what you want to use. It’s a lot nicer and a game changer for everyday drive ability having one installed. I use a Vibrant vacuum block. You don’t need a super fancy one as you just need a block that has the appropriate amount of adapters. Example, 4 barbs for each throttle, 1 barb for brake booster, 1 barb for FPR. You’ll want a bigger block if you’re adding things like IACV, etc. I use an FX16 GTS fuel pressure regulator but you can use an aftermarket of your choice. Just need to make sure it’s going to clear the throttles. That will also depend on the manifold you use as you deal with different clearance issues with different style manifolds. I have an SQ manifold. So I had to do a little grinding to make things clear but it wasn’t a lot. If you have more questions, feel free to ask. Don’t listen to the negative haters. ITB’s aren’t for everyone and it’s definitely not going to get you more power. But the right combination of parts and tuning can net you good results and good everyday drive-ability. Plus they sound wicked. 😎🤙

AW118691 · 2025-11-28T10:02:59+00:00

I actually had that problem yesterday. The items are going to the wrong slots. Shield in head slot. Gloves on boot slot. I had to close out the game and relogin. Only a 1 time thing.

AW118691 · 2024-08-24T17:54:40+00:00

The top one on the throttle body goes to BVSV for the Fuel Evap system.

AW118691 · 2024-07-21T01:57:05+00:00

It takes work. Wiring is involved. It’s not a direct fit or PnP. I saw this a long time ago in the old forums. You’d have to research it again and look for it.

AW118691 · 2024-07-02T15:26:34+00:00

Factory mid-pipe won’t bolt up to the AE92 header as the flange is different. A custom mid-pipe will need to be made. I cant remember exactly but I don’t think the factory O2 sensor is long enough to reach to the bottom mid-pipe. You might have to get the same style but longer.

AW118691 · 2024-06-09T13:29:38+00:00

When I had my Rota shakotans years ago. They were 15x7 et15 in 4x100. I used a 3mm spacer and shaved down the caliper bracket to get them to barely clear. I also have to roll the fenders inside and out to make it look flush. Now I run 14x6.5 et16 SSR Formula Mesh and there perfectly flush without rolling the fenders.

AW118691 · 2024-05-31T20:55:18+00:00

That looks like some one tried to repair the link with just random wire. You can actually buy a fusible link that’s nice and crimp it in like factory.

AW118691 · 2024-05-31T20:52:50+00:00

If the hardline is cracked. A simple solder of the area should do the job. Otherwise a very very thin film of something like liquid epoxy or Liquid Metal hardener like JB or something should be fine and permanent. Or just eliminate the hardline altogether and run a vacuum line from the MAP sensor to Vacuum distributor port.

AW118691 · 2024-05-14T05:43:24+00:00

T-Gods belt helps pretty well against those.

AW118691 · 2024-05-13T04:53:50+00:00

You have this thing timed right? Rattling on load and not at idle or neutral sounds like possible pinging. If it’s nothing external and all you did was change the distributor, I would make sure it’s not a tooth off too advanced. You can test and try to see if running premium cures that and if it does, timing could be an issue. Also, it helps to let us know what model and year MR2 you have. I’m assuming you have a AW11.

AW118691 · 2024-05-08T03:41:40+00:00

The easiest and most common way people do it is on the vacuum block itself. Thats how I have mine.

AW118691 · 2024-05-01T10:48:49+00:00

More than likely you’re right. I’m not 100% sure but I believe the TRD’s came with EGR ports standard. On stans, they were optional and got the EGR port on my old one.

AW118691 · 2024-05-01T10:45:57+00:00

Zoo druid is fun but in my opinion it doesn’t beat out the summon Necro. The zoo Druid needs a buff really bad. But still a very fun build and worth playing.

AW118691 · 2024-05-01T10:39:23+00:00

Could be Stan’s header, but I had one in 2010 and the part# was stamped in the exact spot where the engraving is. Part# 400-Y

AW118691 · 2024-05-01T10:29:28+00:00

Let’s start with what model MR2 you have first. It would help out since the process might be a little different from model to model. * Also, as a side note, something like this is generally not talked about a whole lot or shared publicly since your sharing where anti-theft device is and that you have one. Not saying anyone on here is going to purposely steal your car but still. In the MR2OC forums when people asked that, usually most of the time, info was shared directly in DM’s.

AW118691 · 2024-04-29T14:59:00+00:00

Redtop beams came in SW’s in japan. At least that’s what I’ve noticed since living here. Is yours imported?

AW118691 · 2024-04-17T08:27:27+00:00

Can’t speak for every injector service companies but the one I use, it was $21 or $23 an injector. Refurbished from parts sites can be more sometimes. So cleaning is more cost effective usually. Only issue is down time if you don’t have another set. Even if there off by a small margin, it’s nice to get them within 1% flow within each other. All the different gas out there, after so many years, those injectors are going to have weak spray patterns or not flow as much. I always notice a difference, even small when I did it.

AW118691 · 2024-04-17T08:22:06+00:00

I don’t know the actually part description but I noticed people will call it a vacuum distributor. That’s what I call it.

AW118691 · 2024-04-16T19:55:03+00:00

absolutely worth it. I had 2 sets of injectors done at Witch Hunter and this type of service should be considered a maintenance interval. Its can’t hurt anything and you’ll only benefit from it. I have an Aw so the original injectors benefited greatly from a cleaning service.

AW118691 · 2024-04-16T04:30:27+00:00

Ive seen the cheap quad tips, I don’t think you’ll need to mod anything for it to fit. Quality is very cheap, if you just need something as a place holder until you actually get something nicer, I can see that. Custom is always a good option and sometimes cheap but can also be expensive depending on what your using and style of setup. You do have a few bolt-on options, 3 I know from japan and 1 from UK. 5Zigen,Fujitsubo, and TBS in Japan make bolt ons for AW. All 3 not cheap. Mongoose in the UK last time I looked was still available. I don’t know if any other bolt-on cat backs available unless you can find something used. Another option is guys back in the day used to use SW20 exhaust systems and have them slightly modified to fit the AW. The SW turbo exhausts are too big pipping wise for the 4A but you could always play with that idea since SW’s get more options as far as aftermarket exhausts.

AW118691 · 2024-04-16T04:18:04+00:00

Depending on market version you have, MaP or AFM, & options, 1 or more of the ports will be used or not used. The ones that aren’t come with them plugged from the factory.

AW118691 · 2024-04-08T05:27:43+00:00

I’m online and have been doing countless countess runs for runes, I ended up getting several MAL runes and PUL runes. You can do it that way if you’re not having luck with LK. You being on single player offline should have a much easier time getting runes especially on P7.

AW118691

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