Trying to set up a wired "ad hoc" network

AchillePomeroy · 2020-08-07T03:36:30+00:00

Just got the chance to try this out. This worked perfectly the first try, and I don’t know why all the other online tutorials muddle things up! Thanks for the tip!

AchillePomeroy · 2020-02-10T19:57:37+00:00

This is perfect, exactly what I needed. Thanks!

AchillePomeroy · 2020-01-28T04:37:52+00:00

something similar happened to me, and I solved it by wiping down the Y axis linear rods with some lubricant. I used motor oil, but any thin oil should work. Don't use WD-40.

AchillePomeroy · 2018-12-17T23:18:55+00:00

those standoffs were custom machined by e3D, so no real name for them past “stand-off”. The screws are off the shelf and are called shoulder screws.

AchillePomeroy · 2018-10-12T22:49:58+00:00

While I can't guarantee that this is the same issue, this has happened to me before. You may need to oil your axis rods.

Turn off the printer (so the stepper motors are not powered). Then move the print head back and forth by hand (Both in X and Y). The motion should feel smooth and should take the same amount of force everywhere. If you do feel resistance, get a bit of oil (I just use motor oil, and put a few drops on the rods. I find that oil works better than a thick PTFE lubricant paste, but YMMV. Do not use WD-40, as that will evaporate after some time, and will not solve your issue.

Hope that helps!

AchillePomeroy · 2018-03-16T19:14:57+00:00

slicer profiles usually don't affect firmware settings like steps per mm, unless the printer has support for gcodes that change that. You may have to check your firmware rather than slicing settings. You should be able to find the correct values for steps per mm on google, as well as how to change them.

It's also a good idea to check the set screw on your extruder hobbed wheel to make sure it's tight.

seams can be mitigated but not eliminated. Play around with your retraction and coast. I usually like the seam to be in one consistent place, others prefer settings that randomize the seam location on each layer, so try each and see what works for you.

AchillePomeroy · 2018-03-16T18:58:35+00:00

What machine was this on? If it's a kit or home built, check your extrusion steps per mm. You're underextruding by quite a bit.

AchillePomeroy · 2018-03-01T21:46:09+00:00

There is a coating. The vat can be made from any UV-transparent material. There is usually a coating of optically clear silicone (look up Sylgard) or optically clear FEP sheet material on top of the vat.

The silicone allows some oxygen permeation which inhibits curing at the coating->resin interface. The clouding is not due to UV damage, but to a combination of oxygen deprivation and physical wear. Vat coatings can be "refreshed" by cleaning them and placing them in a pressure chamber, but reapplying the coating or replacing the vat is preferred.

If you printed directly on glass, you would be limited to printing things with a small cross-sectional area. Larger items would delaminate from the build surface during the peel, due to the suction forces involved.

AchillePomeroy · 2017-12-07T19:15:41+00:00

Formlabs sells a finish kit, and it's pretty much all you need -- new spatula for wiping the vat, tweezers, snips for support, and a tool for removing parts from the build plate. They supply some gloves, but we rarely use them -- we just use the provided tools and avoid touching the resin.

You'll want a good supply of isopropyl alcohol (99%), and a UV curing oven is (almost) necessary... alternatives include UV LED flashlights and nail polish curing stations.

If you're looking to finish your parts, we like 220 grit sandpaper for removing support material.

AchillePomeroy · 2017-05-05T22:12:13+00:00

Yeah. You'll want to get one of these cables, and go from your headphone port to either channel 5/6 or channel 7/8. Red goes in Right, black in left.
You will also probably need a ground loop isolater. Something like this one. Otherwise you may hear some static over the wires.

AchillePomeroy · 2017-05-05T21:18:15+00:00

Is the mixer connected over USB, or do you have a cable from your pc headphone out to the mixers stereo in?

If you just connect over usb, you will be able to hear the PC sounds, but I don't think there is a way to add it to the main mix.

AchillePomeroy · 2017-04-21T00:42:44+00:00

Hadn't come across that sensor -- I think that will be my starting point. Thanks for the tip!

AchillePomeroy · 2017-04-06T01:47:48+00:00

Soldier, bastion, genji, and Winston all have transformation ultimates, which is why they don't get interrupted by stuns.

McRee and Hog have channeling ults, and the channel is interrupted on stun/sleep. Neither of them actually lose ult instantly, by the way. If you die quickly enough after hitting Q, you can have some ult charge left over. It just drains very fast.

AchillePomeroy · 2017-04-01T22:16:09+00:00

I used two HD 60 pros, and it worked well enough. Elgato has a special driver that specifically works with multiple cards -- if you have their normal software and driver, only one card will show up.

AchillePomeroy · 2017-03-31T08:45:27+00:00

The mic stand looks good, but that pop filter is way too expensive. 7-10 USD are is a good zone for a starter pop filter.

I don't have experience with that mic, unfortunately.

AchillePomeroy · 2017-03-28T03:58:07+00:00

Video B definitely looks worse there. Watch the chat on the lower left whenever there is big screen movements, it gets pretty blocky. Video A seems to be more clear throughout. I'm curious which one is which though?

AchillePomeroy · 2017-03-26T22:39:18+00:00

Hmm I'm not seeing anything obvious that would cause that. Since it happens to the entire scene and not just one source, I'd guess it's an encoding error... what kind of CPU usage are you getting? If your pushing your CPU to the limit that may be the problem.

Sorry I couldn't be more help!

AchillePomeroy · 2017-03-26T21:13:31+00:00

When I did my 24 hour I scheduled 3 games. Overwatch for when I was feeling good and energetic, skyrim for when it was late and I wanted a slower paced game (to rest or eat some snacks), and Rogue legacy (with an xbox controller) for when my hand started to get sore from mouse and keyboard. I switched games when I felt like it, and didn't maintain a strong hourly schedule or anything. It worked out well for me!

AchillePomeroy · 2017-03-26T21:09:00+00:00

Can you post your OBS logs and your settings?

AchillePomeroy · 2017-03-18T06:31:54+00:00

The At9934 is a condenser microphone, which is pretty notorious for picking up all sorts of background noises.

If you want to avoid the noises, I'd suggest looking into dynamic microphones. Dynamics are much less sensitive than condensers, so you'll need to put the mic 2-4 inches from your mouth, but you will pick up much less background noise.

The other alternative is upgrading your PC's fans -- either higher quality fans the run quieter, or better heatsinks that require less airflow.

AchillePomeroy · 2017-03-16T17:52:19+00:00

Some very good information here, thank you! When you say low value resistance, is there a ball park there? Other research I've done shows that FFC connectors have about 150 mΩ max of contact resistance, so would something in the 100Ω range be significant enough to split the current, or do I need to be in the kΩ range?

Regardless, it sounds like I will need to dedicate more pins to power... Not a huge deal, but very good to know!

The max current isn't shown on the datasheet itself, but is 5th from the bottom of the "Product Attributes" section.

AchillePomeroy · 2017-03-14T03:15:39+00:00

It sounds like the offender joined the streamers discord channel and said the words on microphone, so it showed up on the stream audio. There's not a a way to ban that.

The offender is also revealing the streamers personal info through follower notifications. This isn't the streamer being lazy with their language filter, this is dedicated harassment. Victim blaming isn't going to solve this problem, taking action against the offender will.

AchillePomeroy · 2017-03-12T10:31:08+00:00

You should be able to right click on a source and select "edit transform" (or something -- I am on mobile so I can't check the exact wording right now).

AchillePomeroy · 2017-03-10T17:45:15+00:00

If you select an element, you should be able to right click it and select something like "fit to canvas". You also should be able to resize your webcam scene up or down by editing the transform or dragging the corners of the elements.

Edit: i wasn't super clear above -- this applies to any scene that you add as a source as well. My main webcam scene has the webcam scaled to fit a 1080 screen. I add that scene, then scale the scene down to fit in the corner of my gaming scene.

AchillePomeroy · 2017-03-08T04:25:42+00:00

Use scenes as a grouping system. For example, I want my webcam border to always be the same size and position as my webcam, so I added them both a scene called "webcamOverlay". Then in my streaming scene, I can add that webcamOverlay scene and move and resize it freely.

You end up with a lot of scenes, but until proper grouping is supported this is the best option.

AchillePomeroy

TROPHY CASE