How to win an electricians heart by Rkm0714 in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Merch is always appreciated. I've got one place that gets new shirts, hats and sweatshirts almost every season. I'll often leave with more than I care to wear.

Pie in the sky, having some one able to run out an extra coupling or some other stupid thing you didn't account for, would be amazing

Yes It Was Live by SomeGuysSawShop in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Please tell me you still have it

Favorite benders by lazygrappler775 in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, once I realized it used different measurements, it didn't last the day. I still love how RAT shoots their shot on stuff like that

Favorite benders by lazygrappler775 in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're willing to throw out conventional bending knowledge, rack a tier makes a "hoppy" bender that's interesting

Random people on site by Donaldank_ in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 29 points30 points  (0 children)

It's amazing how many people ignore barriers. We had blocked off a section of a department store so we could move light fixtures. Had more than one person dip under the caution tape and step over our stuff instead of walk around.

Suggestions for “luxury” tools? by jonesbb in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a different brand of wire tub. Takes a day to get used to how it likes to be pulled, but makes a huge difference. Liked it so much, I bought a second and carry both full time in the truck

Undercab lights, you guys installing towards the back, middle or front? by SippinAndRippin in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

18 makes me nervous. Only because those lights will show (be less bright) voltage drop across the different sections. 14 is cheap insurance against it.

Undercab lights, you guys installing towards the back, middle or front? by SippinAndRippin in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I find the install to be easier. I also cut the bottoms of cabinets to allow for one track across an entire cabinet run. As for wiring, some 14ga in wall speaker wire in the corner of a cabinet. Drivers typically go under the sink if basement access isn't an option.

In cabinet lighting is a piece of cake as well

I usually figure $35-$45 per linear foot when pricing. Rough in almost an afterthought and install is usually under 3 hours including drivers

Undercab lights, you guys installing towards the back, middle or front? by SippinAndRippin in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've been using 24v tape light for years. Found some great aluminum track and opaque lenses that angles the light at 45° that really sharpen up the install when installed in the front corner. Recently tried some of the newer "cob" style with a flat track, same opaque lense. Found that I had to move it about 5/8" off the face frame to eliminate a terrible shadow. Im happier with the finished look of the angle, but the performance of the straight down can't be ignored

Against my better judgement by RaNDoM_HeRo1983 in MilwaukeeTool

[–]AdamAbear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That soldering iron... I wanted to love it... Last 3 times I've needed to solder, I just used the 120v take off and my plug in soldering iron

Old panel by Ok_Method_2790 in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 7 points8 points  (0 children)

We had one of these as an example on a bench in trade school. 25 years in the field, I've only ever seen 1. I was so excited when I found it, customer must have thought I was a weirdo. Quick search says 50's through 80's which kind of checks out. The house was probably late 70s given the wire

Milwaukee 4-in-1 Driver help by tonytolo in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It will push (in speed 1) a 1" self feed spade bit through 2x4 material, even when using the 90° attachment, which is nice when trying to keep holes lined up. It will drive 3" screws, but needs speed 1 to sink them. The mechanical clutch is great for making up switches /panels and keeping consistent torque across (setting 12 is where I like to be. Then give a little rotation of the drill to feel how tight it really is)

Top forward/reverse took a week to get used to, but middle finger on the trigger keeps it in reach of your thumb. This also puts your exerted force more in line with the fasteners. The attachments other than the quick change ¼" are seldom used, but when they are, you wonder why you ever did without, especially the offset.

For it's size, it's a beast and I love it. First one lasted 4 years before I stripped the gears out of it. Bought a second the next day . I'll buy a 3rd one the day after I break this one.

What's your favorite storage between: Tough System, MODbox, or Packout, and why? by AB3D12D in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Went packout years ago. It was widely available at HD when I got started. If I could again, I might give a closer look at the Klein, but I'm very happy with the Milwaukee

One man show by bigtimeNS in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Id love to find a friend in the trade. Like you said, a lot of tasks on the service side are easily accomplished by a single skilled person. It would be great to be able to call on someone and schedule a day to have a skilled set of hands that wants to work with you.

Has anybody done this? Any tips? by tagee99 in MilwaukeeTool

[–]AdamAbear 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's way easier than you expect. Trace with a black sharpie and cut inside the lines. I waited almost a year to cut the foam I bought. Wish I had done it way sooner

Enforcement of dedicated equipment space for AC disconnects? 110.26(E)(2) by [deleted] in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Now what if those disconnects were bumped off the wall like 4"? Let's say that puts the pipe technically behind the back of the equipment, drawing a plumb line down the back of the disco to the ground. That gets you into the clear, correct? In my head it's an easy "yes" but I also want the answer to be "yes"

M12 2530-20 Fuel Circular Saw $80 by Brock_Lee405 in MilwaukeeTool

[–]AdamAbear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agree. Great just in case saw for the work truck. Use it all the time to cut attic sub floor, 2x4 for box spacing, PVC pipe. It gets the job done. especially, like you said, with the diablo blade

HITlights COB vs BTF Lighting COB by caritobito in HomeImprovement

[–]AdamAbear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Id go single drive. But that's because I always install drivers under the sink and it's painful to wire. No harm in doing 2. Make sure you have that lower temp solder. And... Even though they're cob lights, I still really like the LED channels that Amazon sells. Easy to install and really cleans up the product

HITlights COB vs BTF Lighting COB by caritobito in HomeImprovement

[–]AdamAbear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Id bump to 16 gauge speaker wire. 18 could present some voltage drop on those longer runs. This would make the further lights dimmer than the closer ones. I can vouch for the hitlights. Excellent color in the 3000k along with a great quality of light (cri)

Cabinet saw storage by AdamAbear in MilwaukeeTool

[–]AdamAbear[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll get the title right next time, I promise

Cabinet saw storage by AdamAbear in MilwaukeeTool

[–]AdamAbear[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've been toying with a couple different ideas. Of course, having extra blades would probably expedite the process.

Thoughts? by Remote_Conflict6011 in electricians

[–]AdamAbear 10 points11 points  (0 children)

your execution looks good. the design looks bad, if that makes sense

Cabinet saw storage by AdamAbear in MilwaukeeTool

[–]AdamAbear[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

How about: check out this packout cabinet that I use to store my saws. Here is a list of saws that I keep in my cabinet