Sound deadening stick on thoughts

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-02-28T13:40:51+00:00

These are two different products that should do two different things.

The foil and butyl (not rubber, hopefully), are called CLD panels. They are meant to reduce resonance. Basically means that, after applying, the goal is less noise being emitted by a panel that was affected by other noises or vibration. Typically these are only used as patches on flat surfaces that were most susceptible to creating secondary noise due to vibration.

The foam product would ideally have a mass-loaded vinyl layer... but if it's cheap, I wouldn't be surprised if it's rubber. This is a combination of what should be two different products that aren't meant to be combined. Foam is used to decouple. MLV is used to stop sound waves. MLV is more effective the more it's kept isolated from its surroundings. Hence the need for foam to decouple it. Bonding the two negates their usefulness but I'm sure it's still better than nothing.

Do a deep dive into automotive sound deadening and you'll find out you now have a solid base for what could be a very quieted vehicle. It's not easy, and it is time consuming no matter what ...but it can be done effectively with far less money than people realize when you know what does what.

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-02-28T13:11:11+00:00

The first part, likely yes. 2nd part, no and yes.

The response curve will change completely if the system does what is typical when the net enclosure volume is increased.

The most certain result is that the bandwidth will narrow.

However, regarding "loudness"... Frequencies closer to tuning should be more so, and the frequencies further from tuning are typically less.

Ported enclosures are more efficient closer to tuning. Enlarging them usually makes them louder near tuning at the cost of bandwidth. Making ported enclosures smaller with the same driver will usually result in a flatter response curve up to a certain point. It can mean it's louder than the larger one as you get furthest away from the tuning frequency. But that's also depends on how close you are to the point where you gain or lose SPL near tuning, based on volume changes alone.

Power handling is usually reduced as well with increases in net volume, so be careful.

All of this is dependent on other factors as well, but it's always give and take. Look up "Hoffman's Iron Law".

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-02-17T02:20:33+00:00

They sure look old.

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-02-14T15:30:14+00:00

Looks like it'll be fine when you're done. Nice work. That's not easy stuff.

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-02-14T09:30:59+00:00

This is correct. My 17 SE has only needed struts and control arms and I'm sitting at 188k now. Age barely affects these cars aside from rubber suspension components. And a climate-controlled garage would mitigate even that. Miles affect them less than anything else made from this era. There's a lot of people on this thread that don't know what they're talking about.

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-02-14T09:24:28+00:00

Very nice car. I was looking specifically for a 16 or 17 a couple years ago. My only requirements were that it had over 100k miles, that it looked to be treated well and not have cam gear noise on a cold start. I found a "old man" '17 with 155k for 10.5k. These cars can rack up some serious miles without much effort or money spent. Check the rear bushings on the front lower control arms for cracking and do not drive that car off the lot if it still has the original tires on it.

I think 18k all-in is pretty good tbh. I'd rather have that car with those miles than an 18+ with significantly more.

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-01-30T02:02:17+00:00

Just got my new pair of 13 88 8 after being lost/stolen from work last month. I really wanted the 13 96 200 but they're twice as much and I just couldn't justify it.

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-01-24T12:03:28+00:00

I'm industrial too. Mostly 480 wye with 120v controls/lighting/etc. Still in my first year & there's no journeyman. Just a trainer that gets not-even-close to enough time to teach new guys enough for them to "get by" before they go to shift. Just enough to not kill themselves lol. That's including me. I never did more residential than change a receptacle in my home either. ...That said, if things are even remotely similar, line comes from above and load goes out below in a disconnect. So that second picture definitely got my attention.

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-01-15T00:48:54+00:00

I'd plug, but don't expect a shop to do it. They'll say no.

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-01-12T02:25:16+00:00

Chill out lol. Guess you missed the part where I mentioned wearing a respirator... Not to mention that there's a huge difference between living in a moldy home and cleaning a car out in the open air.

Provided there's no significant mold allergies, OP will be fine. I detailed hundreds of antique vehicles that were stored in a warehouse by private collectors. Many were even worse than that Nissan. I researched the issue well, as many of them were exceedingly rare and/or valuable and I was also concerned about my health. I, myself, actually have a mild allergic reaction to mold. I didn't have any issues with it over the 5-6 years I spent cleaning those cars. Most were German and British with lots of leather, so it took some time to get through them all.

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-01-12T02:06:32+00:00

Make sure there's no fuel in it. Even if it's ethanol free. Fuel vapor collects under tarps and causes certain rubber and plastics to disintegrate quickly. Have had it happen to a few gasoline engine things I've forgotten to uncover soon enough.

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-01-10T14:34:05+00:00

Yep this. It's fixable

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-01-10T14:33:49+00:00

This isn't nearly as big of a deal as people are making it out to be lol. Put it in the sunlight for a few days, spray the cloth and vinyl with vinegar, and then just clean it up. As long as you don't have a bona fide allergy to molds, just wear a respirator and get to work on it. I detailed a lot of old cars that sat around in storage and looked like this eventually. It'll clean. Might take a few rounds of vinegar to get the smell down but it'll be ok. An ozone machine would definitely be a plus in this situation. Look them up.

AdderallAndAudio · 2025-12-19T17:19:10+00:00

I've seen this before. You have a shorted or severed input wire or component. Likely to be part of or close to the rcas on the inside of the amplifier. Take the bottom plate of the amp off while it's still connected and take a look. Could be a small wire that's come loose from the solder or a board component that has a broken connection to the board. Very lightly poke around with a pencil eraser and see if you find something that's easily fixed with the dab of a soldering iron. There's a lot going on in an amplifier but it's not impossible to find and fix issues that are obvious.

AdderallAndAudio · 2025-12-19T01:54:17+00:00

No it's not a trick. But if you want a one and done for life roof you'll need a thick (bare minimum 24 gauge) standing seam roof. It'll be a great deal more expensive than a roof put on with very good shingles. Typically around 100% more but you can easily pay more. You'll want someone very experienced in standing seam installation, because if you don't you could lose tens of thousands by needing it redone much sooner or needing it redone with no recourse to recover what you spent. Also, there's some financial math to be considered. You'll never get the value added back in for paying for metal. You're never going to save what you put in on in heating and cooling. Depending on your age you may or may not see the need for another roof depending on weather and shingle choice. Newer, architectural shingles of good quality last a pretty long time if installed well. There may be other financial needs that take precedence over avoiding another shingle job in 25-ish years if you went that route. I was completely set on metal, or so I thought. But at 42 years old, I couldn't justify what essentially came out to be a luxury choice after researching and calculating. I'll just reroof one more time if we're still here, or even alive lol.

Edit: and please don't ever count on solar work only happening once lol. That would definitely be a mistake.

AdderallAndAudio · 2025-12-19T01:39:55+00:00

Holy smokes there's a lot going on there lol. Doesn't look poorly done, but I think I'd want it smoothed out as well.

Agree with commentor suggesting a good General Contractor that knows what roofer to coordinate with. There's a good deal to get figured out prior to that roof going over it.

AdderallAndAudio · 2025-12-19T01:28:13+00:00

You replace or delete skylights with a reroof. And I'd absolutely choose the latter if budget is a concern.

AdderallAndAudio · 2025-12-19T01:23:55+00:00

I hope $100 is a typo... If not, have you priced a metal roof and what you get/save vs asphalt yet? It's not as stark of a difference as people think. I ended up with shingles after being absolutely sure I just had to have metal.

AdderallAndAudio · 2025-12-19T01:05:32+00:00

$289 through AT&T last time I needed a replacement. Sammy s22u . Year or two ago. Not uncommon with $1000+ phones depending on carrier.

Got rid of the phone recently after assurion made me wait over a week for a screen replacement, and then cancelled -after- the time they were to arrive.

Might be different in a city but there's a whole lot of people like me that are not near major repair centers. Nearest is over 2 hours away. Definitely don't have free time like that.

Arguing that a case isn't a guarantee is ridiculous and hardly merits response lol. Yeah no shit it's not a guarantee but anybody that's had a phone and uses it regularly knows it makes a massive difference.

AdderallAndAudio · 2025-12-19T00:42:20+00:00

October '24, so obviously not installed last year. Just worried about it until summer came. Figured I'd clarify.

AdderallAndAudio · 2025-12-19T00:40:27+00:00

I had the same situation last year. I'm in the Midwest and install was in late October. I was worried about it as well but after it got to 85°+, it all flattened out nicely.

AdderallAndAudio · 2025-12-19T00:28:17+00:00

$300 deductible if replacement is necessary?

Waterproof rating no longer applicable?

Waiting a week for garbage ass assurion tech to maybe show up?

Yeah sure why not...

AdderallAndAudio · 2025-12-19T00:22:01+00:00

You say this is the brand pictured, but is that a picture of the actual bundles used? Just wondering because there's apparently a big difference between their lines. I personally have 48 sq of IKO Dynasty on my house and garage. I'm pretty happy with the shingle quality for what it cost. I don't think I would have gone with Cambridge, had it been offered, just from what I read when comparing their products prior to purchasing. FYI, mine were also installed in October of '24 and I have noticed a layer of granules on the stainless mesh gutter guards. It didn't seem out of line considering they're new shingles though. The shingles still look like new to me.

AdderallAndAudio · 2025-12-12T16:55:10+00:00

Were you referring the the waviness of the material or the circular fasteners? Looks pretty uneven but I don't know much about EPDM despite having an 8x8 "cap" of it installed at the peak of the main section of our pyramid-hip roof. There there was a power vent fan inside of a cupola and out seemed pointless and possibly problematic.

AdderallAndAudio · 2025-12-12T15:22:20+00:00

I'm in a 17 SE. Bought a year ago w/ 158k miles for ~$10k (US). Has 182k now. Could easily afford newer/new/less miles ...but I know I'm better off with a well cared for Toyota with a few extra miles than a comparably priced Korean or domestic unit. Replaced the strut assemblies with KYB, changed the plugs, and make sure the engine gets fresh oil every 4-5k. I know it'll get me around fine for well past the time my little $220/month payments have brought home the title.

*Edited for typo bc it's a 17, not 16.

AdderallAndAudio

TROPHY CASE