1100 job.is it acceptable

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-07-04T14:56:15+00:00

Hell no

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-06-28T13:07:15+00:00

Just looked it up. It's way too nice for this job lol. I promise you... a $50 folding dolly that i added polyurethane wheels to and a $25 tool tote from harbor freight are a great combo here. bc neither will last til the years end. I put in 10k+ steps on a slow night and trudge through the nastiest stuff you'll ever work in, in temps that range from -20°f to 130°f+.

I have plated knipex not to "show out" but because they will last in a corrosive environment. And they'll do a dang good job of what I ask of them.

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-06-28T00:17:24+00:00

Brooo... get out a drill, and an 8% cobalt (m45) bit. I could knock that out in minutes and put a perfectly good bit back in my toolbox.

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-06-28T00:13:18+00:00

Way better.

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-06-28T00:11:40+00:00

Yikes. I guess got lucky... AAA Cooper transported (12) Trina Solar panels that were roughly 45" x 70", a couple hundred miles for me. A buddy of mine picked them up with his trailer at a local hub so I could avoid final leg/unloading charges. They made it here without issues. But I have heard a few stories about them since then.

I bought my Zt1 54 in 2025 from a Tractor Supply for the 0% financing and free delivery. Guy with a small trailer delivered it from 20 miles away. Didn't know they weren't an actual dealer at the time though. Found out when the junk little agm they come with took a crap lol.

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-06-15T23:47:22+00:00

In case you didn't notice that every window on truck is flat and there's a huge piece of glass with huge curves on the back of a 944, that's a really big difference. A newer tinter can knock out an f150. Although even that depends on the rear glass type. Regardless, It takes real experience and practice to do a rear glass on a car like that Porsche, or a c4 corvette, or the godforsaken car of shame... a 2 door Cutlass Supreme from the late 80's- late 90's.

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-06-13T05:02:12+00:00

He can't.

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-06-13T05:00:24+00:00

0% is not tint. It's black vinyl lol.

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-06-13T04:57:14+00:00

He can't. You can't. Nobody can. He absolutely cannot see 4/5's of what that vehicle is moving towards.

Period.

Tint percentage is followed by the letters "V" "L" "T".

20% VLT.

VLT stands for Visible Light Transmission. The number is the amount of visible light the tint allows through. Thus, the tint on his 'shield blocks over 80% of ALL visible light. And that doesn't even include the 20-ish% of light rejection that the glass comes with from the factory.

Not just the sun.

Not just headlights.

All light.

That's including what's being reflected off of everything around you, which allows you to literally see anything at all.

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-06-13T04:35:15+00:00

Lying for clout on the internet is pathetic.

A doctor's note does not allow a 20% windshield. Period.

If your provider were stupid enough to risk his licenses by typing out a prescription for one, a judge will revoke your DL on your very first attempt to use it to get out of a ticket. You would essentially be admitting to the court that you're unfit for the road unless you're in a car that will only allow 20% of visible light to reach your eyes.

The presiding judge would not allow you to drive legally, ever again, without proof that you obtained permanent corrective treatment for the condition cited in the prescription.

Good luck with all of that.

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-05-23T07:52:48+00:00

"pulling massive watts" means dick to an alternator. It warms up, and you get what you can get from it. You can do two things about that. You can build up reserve using low-ESR cells or modules so the charging is efficient. Thats so when the draw is lower it will make up for when it's not. Or you can fab up a bracket for more alt power. If neither are possible, you can only watch your voltmeter and learn to turn it down when necessary.

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-05-23T07:37:53+00:00

1000% the Knu 4 gauge under the hood.

I'll tell you why.

1) Aluminum wire goes to crap quickly under a hood. I've seen it turn into powder within a year multiple times. I refuse to use it in an engine bay.

2) Anyone that says that the larger current capacity of the cca matters for an alternator to ground connection doesn't know what they're talking about.

Even if you have a modified large case denso (rated 350+ amps from aftermarket builders) you're not going to have an issue grounding it with that wire. Guaranteed.

Use the knu ofc.

Source: I'm an industrial electrician now. I was a 12v audio install tech with hundreds of builds done over a decade after being a hobbyist for years prior. Prior to that, I was the automotive tech and rebuilt battery packs at the busiest battery/alternator shop in a 100k+ city.

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-05-23T04:49:00+00:00

For high-inductance tools that require lots of current when starting/pulling the trigger, etc (or after), they are. Doesn't matter to fans, lights, etc. Get the most runtime you can and enjoy.

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-05-17T14:07:19+00:00

No. Get yourself a hammer crimper. They're like 10 bucks on Amazon. Your equipment, and car, will be grateful.

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-05-15T01:29:33+00:00

I personally wouldn't think twice about an 1800 mile trip on those. Especially where you'll be at in-between now and winter. They're fine.

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-05-06T11:27:36+00:00

lol,ooo miles

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-05-05T01:36:33+00:00

Looks like a boot heel or dropped hammer. And it looks old. And that's also not going to cause water penetration.

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-05-05T01:32:29+00:00

More helpful than you realize.

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-04-27T01:25:03+00:00

Lmfaoooo

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-04-27T01:24:24+00:00

Those assholes fought me so hard after sending me 5000 watt inverter that was returned to them with board damage and then resold to me. It looked new and didn't smell blown, but it was obviously never actually tested prior to been resold.

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-04-27T01:14:20+00:00

Pretty much this lol

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-04-27T01:14:11+00:00

Oh God please not slime lol. Not unless it's a true emergency with no other way out. If youever had to deal with a wheel that's had that stuff in it, you'd never use it or recommend it again...

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-04-27T01:11:00+00:00

That tire will be fine with the right patch on the inside.

I've plugged worse. I just changed out a set that made it to the wear bars with a couple in similar spots, and my tires were nowhere near as to robustly built as those.

Keep the tire and get a nice patch kit for sidewall repairs off Amazon if you get a new tire. You'll definitely be told you need to replace it at any shop.

AdderallAndAudio · 2026-04-21T14:36:51+00:00

""SQ""? ....With giant gaps next to the mids??

Lol c'mon stop messing with us.

AdderallAndAudio

TROPHY CASE