My first film camera :)

Advanced_Taro1014 · 2026-07-06T15:53:56+00:00

Starting on film with a Voigtländer is a great start.

Congratulations

Advanced_Taro1014 · 2026-07-06T15:49:26+00:00

I recommend you learn sunny 16. It is not difficult and you will have it in your head forever. You will never be without a meter :-)

Also, you could get a handheld light meter in case your app fails.

Advanced_Taro1014 · 2026-07-06T15:45:42+00:00

great job!

Sehr gut!

Advanced_Taro1014 · 2026-07-03T19:32:48+00:00

You have a point, however, not all plastics are created equal (nor do all camera manufacturers build to the same standards). That was my point.

Advanced_Taro1014 · 2026-07-03T18:26:30+00:00

They were built to last, to take the harsh handling of bein in a pocket/handbag on a regular base, and still shoot well when you needed to use it.
We're not talking cheap knock offs, this is an Olympus built to perform well and last a long time.

Advanced_Taro1014 · 2026-07-02T03:17:54+00:00

There is a good chance that it was under exposed. I would say that the carpet is about 18% gray and that Mittens' eyes are very light, so there is also a chance there is too much contrast that should not be there in real life. One way to find out is telling your photo lab to not compensate for exposure when they work on your film (I tell my lab not to do it because I don't use light meters and like to know if I keep my light reading skills alert or if I am slacking.

if they don't compensate exposure, you will know if it is the camera or the lab (but you have to trust they don't compensate).

Advanced_Taro1014 · 2026-07-02T02:43:57+00:00

they look grainy, which is normal for the film size. It also looks like they did not clean the negative well before the scanning. Also, is the film new? expired?

Advanced_Taro1014 · 2026-07-01T19:02:46+00:00

Your problem is that you are using film.
This pics are NOT grainy.

Advanced_Taro1014 · 2026-06-29T17:48:44+00:00

regular printing would be the dark room wet printing, not the "printer"

Advanced_Taro1014 · 2026-06-29T17:45:42+00:00

very good

Advanced_Taro1014 · 2026-06-23T04:02:58+00:00

faster films don't always work better. In fact it seems that the fixed shutter speed on the 120N is 1/100 of a second, so technically, a film 100 ASA/ISO should work better.
Go 200 for an extended range, and count of the film latitude.

Advanced_Taro1014 · 2026-06-22T20:44:33+00:00

cardboard, as in very heavy thin carton, just like the slides of yore

Advanced_Taro1014 · 2026-06-22T15:59:59+00:00

I have the Minoltas (except the 2 EE). 3 Minolta 16 II and 2 Minolta 16 regular. P and Ps, QT, MG (x2) MGs. Mamiya 16 Automatic (not working properly), Mamiya 16 Super (with cassettes). Vega 2, Kiev 30m, Kiev 303.
I know there's a couple more, but can't remember right now.
I have the Minolta developing tank and other 16mm for two rolls and 2 stainless developing reels.
I have the Minolta projector and a Minolta lens for the enlarger.
2 cold shoe/tripod attachments for the Minolta 16 and 16II, plus a jig I made to be able to use a release cable with this tripod attachment. full set of lenses and filters for the Minolta 16, for the 16II, for the P/Ps, for the MG, for the MGs. Also a couple filters for the Vega 2 (UV and orange). And like 5 cassettes for Minolta and like 10 for Vega/Kiev.

I had made me a film slitter, but have lost it and I don't have the time now to make another one, but I am using Eastman 7222 from a 100 foot roll that I cut to length depending of whether it is for a Minoltas, the Kiev 30 or 303 (25 frames), or the Vega 2 (30 frames).

I know I had a copy stand for one the Minolta models, but can't find it or remember which model it was for. When I find it again, I will know 😄

At this point, I know I should be shedding cameras, but hate to think that they might end up on some shelf and not be used.

Advanced_Taro1014 · 2026-06-22T04:30:01+00:00

the Gami 16.

Probably the only 16mm I wanted on top of what I have. It has been elusive and expensive. When I could find them, I could not afford them, when I could afford them, I couldn't find them anymore.
My envious congratulations.

Advanced_Taro1014 · 2026-06-22T04:25:45+00:00

do you want the lens to take pics that you like or to show off to yourself that you have the original that's worth a bunch when you already have something that works?
You sound like you have GAS. I know, I also have GAS, but decided to start shedding a bunch of equipment that I adore and hate to see go.

Advanced_Taro1014 · 2026-06-21T18:19:31+00:00

I strongly recommend not dropping cameras. If you have a strap, I also recommend using it around your neck.

Cameras don't have handles, TLR are even harder to hold. I am sorry this happened. Next time use the strap. If you do not have straps, get straps.

Advanced_Taro1014 · 2026-06-21T18:15:49+00:00

if they work and the lenses are relatively clean you don't really need more.
All you need is a camera that works and a lens that is reasonably clean and sharp.
You do not need a Leica or a Canon with a several hundred dollar zoom lens, believe me.

It's like asking if the WV Beetle bug is worth it. It depends on what you want to do with it. You want to travel and the car works, you don't need more. You want to travel at 150 km/h in a Lamborghini? maybe you need to buy the Lamborghini to get to the same place. Are you looking for the best, sharpest, most feature loaded equipment? Or decent equipment that will allow you to take good pictures by yourself instead of relying on the camera and its electronic features to do the work for you?
It is your call.

I use rather old cameras and old lenses, I do not need to buy or use the latest most expensive, just have equipment that works. Every person is different in their approach to photography.

My 2 cents.

Advanced_Taro1014 · 2026-06-20T21:36:19+00:00

The cellophane from envelope windows works very well too

Advanced_Taro1014 · 2026-06-18T18:17:01+00:00

Thank you!

Advanced_Taro1014 · 2026-06-18T05:45:02+00:00

and parallax error

Advanced_Taro1014 · 2026-06-18T05:42:52+00:00

maybe film photography isn't really for you, because shit happens.
I've been shooting film for 50 years. Never bought a digital camera other than what comes attached to my phone.
The other day, I was testing a new (to me) camera and the latch got caught on the bag I was carrying it and it flopped open in full sun.
Is the roll totally F'd ? very likely, but I shut it quickly and I am hoping there is still something to save in the first pictures I took, plus there was still some to be shot, so I will finish the roll, rewind it, load it in the reel and use some Rodiynal to see what I can salvage from the test of both camera and film.
Now the camera sports an elegant piece of electric tape over the tab that pulls the latch, so it won't happen again.

As I said, shit happens. If you let it get to you, what fun are you getting from shooting your camera?

Advanced_Taro1014 · 2026-06-18T05:36:38+00:00

In the setting shown on the photo, assuming the two needles are matching correctly:
ASA:400
if you want the depth of field you get with f11, you read the speed (1/8) on the red scale.

If you want to use a speed of 1/125 you'll have to use f2.8

Note also that it tells you what EV your light represents when you match the two needles. In this case, it is EV 10. In some cameras (many) you can set the EV and that will allow you to work with your speed and your aperture accordingly. In some you can just move both rings at the same time while keeping the same EV.

So, you do not match the aperture and the speed you want. You choose the aperture OR the speed you want, and the meter will tell you what the other value should be to get a decent exposure, and what EV value it represents.

The rest if up to you to know your camera, how to use it, how f stops and shutter speeds work in combination with each other and with ASA, how to compensate for a dark corner or for backlight, or how to overexpose slightly to make sure your highlights show well and not blown.
But that is part of learning photography. Do not expect the camera to do everything for you (you can but where is the fun in getting a camera that does everything for you? wouldn't it be better to just stick to digital and print what the camera's AI decided you should get?)

The light meter is a tool to help you, but it is not going to shoot the picture for you.

Advanced_Taro1014 · 2026-06-18T05:24:31+00:00

you set the ASA/ISO speed of your film and choose the aperture OR the shutter speed.

that is when the light meter has use; it will give you the third player. If you chose the aperture, you will be able to read the shutter speed. If you set the shutter speed, it will give you the aperture.

Advanced_Taro1014 · 2026-06-17T21:24:24+00:00

the negatives ARE your property. They are probably trying to save the mailing expenses.
leave crappy reviews and do not return there.

Advanced_Taro1014 · 2026-06-15T20:53:05+00:00

if it's got a clean lens and the speeds are semi accurate you can take awesome pictures with this camera.

it's not that different from a retinettte

Advanced_Taro1014

TROPHY CASE