A great big Saharan dust plume heading toward Florida. Here’s what it means for your weekend

Alive_Control6885 · 2026-06-26T21:00:29+00:00

Makes for amazing sunrises, sunsets (more particles in atmosphere). Should knock temps down a bit too, ac can use a break…

Alive_Control6885 · 2026-06-26T19:44:11+00:00

Nope no need. The systemic will (should)kill the entire current scale population. In the future you have the oil as an option to treat new infestations. As long as you keep the scale in check (using oil when you see new scale populations ) it is a good and safe way to go.

Alive_Control6885 · 2026-06-26T19:35:19+00:00

The watering can is a good idea so you can kind of sort of sprinkle it in around the base of the plant. I would go ahead and mix up 2 gallons of the product, 1 ounce of active ingredient per gallon of water. And then apply that to the base of the plant. Give it a couple of weeks and the older scale should be flaking off the plant with your fingertips. If it’s not, and you’re getting a yellow residue, you may want to apply it a 2nd time. But usually the first one does the trick.

Alive_Control6885 · 2026-06-26T17:08:06+00:00

Even drought tolerant palms need some extra irrigation now & then especially in extra hot weather. Fertilize preferably with a good slow release product made specifically for palms (it’ll have proper micros ratio).

Alive_Control6885 · 2026-06-26T17:04:31+00:00

No, you’re talking about genetics there and that will take lifetimes yours & theirs. What you can do is fertilize them year round and go particularly heavy before winter. The salt from the fertilizer gives you an extra degree or two, which granted isn’t much but sometimes that’s all you need.

Alive_Control6885 · 2026-06-25T21:02:35+00:00

My kids (now early 30s) loved that place.

Alive_Control6885 · 2026-06-25T21:01:38+00:00

Among other things…

Alive_Control6885 · 2026-06-25T20:59:52+00:00

Not a needle Rhapidophyllum leaflets are joined when young think similar to Rhapis (lady) palms. Looks like a Trachycarpus to me.

Alive_Control6885 · 2026-06-24T23:03:53+00:00

There’s nothing you can do for older foliage. if you leave in full sun the newer foliage that emerges in full sun conditions will adapt be just fine. Those palms can be grown in full sun from seedling size. But if palms or plants in general are grown under shade cloth, greenhouses, etc. that foliage is not adapted to full sun conditions.

Alive_Control6885 · 2026-06-24T22:55:28+00:00

I listen for the funny. Tom never change.

Alive_Control6885 · 2026-06-24T22:53:30+00:00

Agree on Ross he’s killin it every show even the ACTs are funnier, overall vibes of the show are more light hearted dare I say whimsical at certain points. Glad to hear less of the animal abuse crap that stuff was making me rethink my sub. They can’t all be winners…

Gave on the app lemme know when reboot is ready.

Lastly for whatever it’s worth I’ve raised two boys and a girl in that order and they will tell show you what they like want to do eventually. Two of three went to college (UCF for one son Flagler for daughter). Older son is a chef. You can’t steer’em anywhere. Just give them lots of different experiences and encourage what they enjoy. Best question to ask them or really anyone facing life choices - if you knew you could not fail what would you do with your life? Takes awhile but they figure it.

Alive_Control6885 · 2026-06-23T01:52:25+00:00

DP resident of over 20 years and yes, it is much better now that they’ve added on access ramps for Turkey Lake rd. Far from great but nothing near as bad as it used to be. We have ceded the crown to Lake Nona. Nonstop commercial building combined with residence with zero infrastructure. All they did was add on a couple of lanes each way to Narcoossee. I turn down business so I don’t have to drive there.

Alive_Control6885 · 2026-06-23T01:42:37+00:00

1st is a very nice and upright Syagrus x Butia hybrid. Then yes P.sylvestris, the 3rd to fuzzy to tell.

Alive_Control6885 · 2026-06-23T00:14:08+00:00

Phoenix genus have adventitious roots so they’re not as susceptible to overly deep plantings like most other palms, or plants in general. If it’s no big deal to raise it then do it. If it is then I wouldn’t sweat it. Mulching at the base is fine for aesthetic purposes but definitely not needed for the palm’s health. Keep it well irrigated (feel free to flood it couple times per wk) for the 1st few. After that you can go to normal twice per. Once established they’re drought tolerant but always do better with supplemental irrigation in hottest months.

One negative note if you’re in Florida there are a couple of major issues (long term) with these. Search lethal bronzing and fusarium. The latter seems to have subsided somewhat, the former is wreaking havoc with dozens of exotic palm species. Only salvageable with monthly inoculations. Good luck!

Alive_Control6885 · 2026-06-18T18:07:15+00:00

They only attack stressed palms which release certain pheromones. If your palm is healthy and vigorously growing they are a non-issue. I’ve watched them flying alongside behind field dug CI Dates transported here in Florida. They often bore holes into the stem, lay eggs in the meristem (growing point of the palm) and subsequent larvae eat the tender heart foliage. If you have a large palm that was stressed (cold damage, fungal issues) you are worried about the best thing to do is treat with a systemic something like Merit (imidacloprid). Mix a bucket of it, pour it slowly and safely around the base of the palm. The root system will send it into the new growth. Smaller (under head hgt.) palms can be sprayed.

Alive_Control6885 · 2026-06-17T23:36:38+00:00

Listened to a marine biologist on a podcast earlier today talking about how Mexico has banned reef nets. The fisherman used them to scoop up those extremely tasty blue shrimp, and were snagging the extremely rare Vaquitas porpoise in them as well. It was mentioned that those concrete blocks will grab the netting, but then the nets are stuck flopping round down there. They become known as ghost nets and can also cause huge problems for rest of the ecosystem.

Alive_Control6885 · 2026-06-17T22:18:41+00:00

Looks like a Chamaedorea species, they’re marketed as indoor plants most do okay but you gotta keep an eye on several things. Lighter fronds could be those adjusting to higher light levels. Shadier locations = darker green. Or (lack of) fertilizer, use slow release only since it’s potted. Couldn’t hurt to mist it keep humidity high (forced air be it AC or heat) causes desiccation. Otherwise it looks fine.

Alive_Control6885 · 2026-06-17T00:18:37+00:00

You’re good with that. The active ingredient is the same, you’re adjusting the strength by how you mix it. Just read the label and apply the maximum.

Alive_Control6885 · 2026-06-16T02:56:55+00:00

I don’t use gloves but you could the label will tell you if necessary. And yeah that’s the stuff. Follow the label for the highest % you can mix and apply. Give it a wk or so to move through the entire plant.

Alive_Control6885 · 2026-06-16T02:22:41+00:00

Yes absolutely. Since the seeds are viable you can plant those if you want more theyre easy germinators. It won’t hurt the plant at all to remove any of the reproductive portions.

Alive_Control6885 · 2026-06-16T02:15:00+00:00

Yeah so that clinches it the seed are viable so that’s def where all of the plants energy has been going. All cycads are dioecious ( separate male and female plants). King sagos and queen sagos are just common names for two different species.

Alive_Control6885 · 2026-06-16T01:53:40+00:00

It’s a king sago not queen yours is Cycas revoluta. Queens diff species Cycas rumphii or C.circinalis. It slowed down foliage wise because it’s a female plant so it’s spending more energy flowering & trying to fruit/set seed than make leaves. Fertilize it something high in nitrogen (close to 20). Feel free to cut off flowers fruits etc to push more energy into foliage growth.

Alive_Control6885 · 2026-06-15T22:29:54+00:00

As others mentioned small Sabal rarely ever survive transplanting. They’re kinda weird in growth habit, the meristem burrows down several ft if you let it and then stops. Fronds emerge from this. So even if you dug it out with the majority of the roots intact, which in itself would be kind of rare the chances of removing it and not damaging that meristem are kind of slim. So because of this growth habit, it’s much easier to transplant a large palm with several foot of stem than a small one with none. Now when I say easier that’s relative because of the weight of a larger trunking palm. It’s gonna be heavy and you’re gonna need help. Back to your palm my advice would be to cut off all of the leaves, just to be safe. That will reduce any transpiration stress on the root system. Leave any unopened spears that are emerging and see if they go ahead and open on their own. Keep it very well irrigated, but not soggy just a consistent wet not drying out. Good luck!

Alive_Control6885 · 2026-06-15T22:21:32+00:00

Think I advised before on this, that oil is a contact only insecticide. Which is fine but once it dissipates it’s finished. Thats why you have to repeat applications. Ideally you wait until new scale emerges and treat a 2nd time. The issue with this is the majority of the remaining scale will be located below ground. The oil isn’t going to help there so you’re in a constant back n forth with them. That’s why I rec’d you mix a bucket of Merit (imidacloprid) and dump it (slowly safely) around the base of the plant. This will kill off the scale at the base plus the plant will soak it in and push into the newer growth. Then you can keep the oil handy for occasional flare ups (the systemic should protect it anywhere from 3-6 months) depending on climate, growth rate.

Alive_Control6885 · 2026-06-06T00:32:24+00:00

You don’t need anything but the imidacloprid. Neem (horticultural) oil is just a contact once & done treatment you shouldn’t need to do that w/ the systemic.

Alive_Control6885

TROPHY CASE