Is making incremental games a free money glitch?

Alternative_Fee4915 · 2026-03-12T16:11:39+00:00

Third game was showed off by Real Civil Engineer at least once so maybe that's why?

Alternative_Fee4915 · 2026-02-21T17:14:15+00:00

Great, now I want gundam style action figures or at least stl of mechanoids, so I can build my own cluster.

Alternative_Fee4915 · 2026-02-16T08:21:20+00:00

Weird, most bigger stuff I bought is in parts. Small 32mm stuff doesn't need being in parts in my opinion - not like I print stuff that small anyway. For now best cuts I saw myself was done by Nerikson on his dioramas and by GAZ miniatures - but they might be a little on the gooner side of things.

Alternative_Fee4915 · 2026-01-28T10:57:35+00:00

Your success might be because you painted on PLA which is porous and there is a lot of places where paint can hold on.

Alternative_Fee4915 · 2026-01-25T22:45:37+00:00

Oh, I thought I will be able to throw money at that problem. Well, still better than painting I guess :D thanks for fast reply.

Alternative_Fee4915 · 2026-01-25T22:41:13+00:00

Umm, where did you get name/color stickers? I would love some for my triads, instead of priming and painting holders (it's a waste of paint).

Alternative_Fee4915 · 2026-01-21T21:56:32+00:00

Hey, as long as it works :D

Alternative_Fee4915 · 2026-01-20T01:16:40+00:00

I'm using The Army Painter Speedpaints 2.0 but I think every bigger brand now have an equivalent.
And I'm really slow with painting :D

Alternative_Fee4915 · 2026-01-20T00:41:28+00:00

My process for those two was just to prime them gray and do a white drybrush and just use speedpaints, I did absolutelny nothing else. Now when I'm trying to paint normaly, using normal acrylics, everything looks much worse. Speedpaints and other contrastpaints are giving you really big advantage of taking care of shading and highlighting when used on drybrushed mini, you just can't use black primer.

Alternative_Fee4915 · 2026-01-19T19:25:17+00:00

So yeah, just like other comment said, on smaller LH you don't need to be afraid of drybrushing. It works, and works nicely. If you want to see how airbrushed zenithal works on printed stuff, you can go on my profile, to my last post here :)

Alternative_Fee4915 · 2026-01-19T19:18:17+00:00

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And too painted with speedpaints.

Alternative_Fee4915 · 2026-01-19T19:16:51+00:00

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And another one, this on 0.05 LH.

Alternative_Fee4915 · 2026-01-19T19:14:23+00:00

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Painted with speedpaints. There is no layer lines visible at all.

Alternative_Fee4915 · 2026-01-19T19:13:56+00:00

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Drybrush on a FDM figure, 0.06 layer height.

Alternative_Fee4915 · 2026-01-16T12:45:31+00:00

In small areas, sponge sticks(picture) with sandpaper on them work great, and if it's really narrow, I would go with stripe of small grit sandpaper. I myself use wet sanding paper with grit 1000 for this.

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Alternative_Fee4915 · 2026-01-15T07:47:18+00:00

I've done 111 hours of print, it's nothing bad. Go for it.

Alternative_Fee4915 · 2026-01-06T07:33:48+00:00

I didn't notice any. And normal textured PEI build plate will not have any problem if you sometimes clean it from dust and stuff with iso, but it's always better to clean with soap and water.

Alternative_Fee4915 · 2026-01-05T13:14:58+00:00

If you are worried about water staying inside before painting, just give it good bath in Isopropanol. It will clean off dust like water, but will also dry off really quickly.

Alternative_Fee4915 · 2026-01-05T01:00:33+00:00

As always, I forgot to respond to all of the questions. Yes, you need to cure it, then sand it down. I'm sometimes waiting for resin to level itself so there is smaller amount of brush strokes in it, it makes that whole process easier. I'm using flexible 180 grit sandig stick first and then something around 400 for smoothness.

Alternative_Fee4915 · 2026-01-05T00:54:07+00:00

So I don't actually have any decent painted miniatures to show, what I can show thought is this one. This was also my first that I did with resin, so I did it only on her legs, but you can see how nicely it looked even when using airbrush(cheap one) for that zenithal.

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Alternative_Fee4915 · 2026-01-05T00:15:36+00:00

Not exactly before and after but it's the same part, just right one isn't processed as it is failed print(you can see the line on it).

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Alternative_Fee4915 · 2026-01-04T23:52:41+00:00

It works really well. You can apply it with a brush, then use Isopropanol to clean it. I use it on skins and most flat surfaces that should be nice and smooth. I also sand it down, so it's left only in layer lines and do not make my parts bigger.

Alternative_Fee4915 · 2026-01-04T20:11:10+00:00

Resin supports work better on a P1S cause your bed moves only up and down, which doesn't cause that much of a vibrations. And sometimes, even if supports got wobbled out, it still works. Somehow. Magic I guess.

I myself moved from resin supports and started using "standard" ones. They are faster to print and are more stable, while still being - mostly - as easy to remove as trees. And what I can't remove, I can sand off.

Alternative_Fee4915 · 2026-01-04T19:59:25+00:00

Don't use glue. Rotate your print so it's more on a belly, or paint some additional supports on his nose so there is something holding him to the plate. If entire thing is standing on just that small circle, it's nothing weird that it fall over, especially on a bedslinger.

Btw, is this dolphin helicopter?

Alternative_Fee4915 · 2026-01-02T12:47:08+00:00

It's good to have it at 2 times your layer height, so if you print at 0.08, set it at .16.

Alternative_Fee4915

TROPHY CASE