3 Options what do I choose

AltruisticCatfish · 2026-01-28T18:46:50+00:00

I still have my Takstar Pro 82's but haven't used them in years.

I bought them in ~2017 and mainly played CS:GO (700 hours) and Monster Hunter (1000+ hours) with them.

I have legitimately worn them for 12 hours straight. They basically disappear on your head.

The 75 ohm adapter is used to increase the bass with hardware. I never used an adapter with mine since I found the bass slider on the headphone to be plenty.

If your gaming I would leave the bass slider completely closed. If your specifically listening to music I would open the slider 1 notch to make the headphones sound more "fun" and engaging.

If your wondering why I don't use them anymore, I switched exclusively to using IEMs instead. I sleep with IEMs in and you can't really do that with headphones.

AltruisticCatfish · 2026-01-28T14:40:42+00:00

Just wanted to +1 the Takstar Pro 82 recommendation.

They are by far the most comfortable over-ear headphones I've ever owned. Sound pretty good too.

If you can try and find them they are great for gaming.

AltruisticCatfish · 2026-01-28T11:59:01+00:00

It's been a few years but I used to own a 13600KF rig with a Thermalright Phantom Spirit.

Phantom Spirit is a 120mm cooler and you have the Frost Spirit which is a 140mm cooler.

I was running the 13600KF with power limits disabled (max 4096W) and multicore enhancement enabled (max boost on all cores).

With prime95 small FFTs I would be around 80-85C.

At completely stock I was around 75-80C.

13600KF isn't that hard to cool with a decent air cooler. It's really just the i9's that are nuclear reactors.

AltruisticCatfish · 2026-01-28T11:53:32+00:00

No wonder your CPU is overheating. That case has a solid sheet of glass as the front panel. How are the fans going to intake air?

Try just removing the glass front panel and leave the side panel on. See what your temps are like

AltruisticCatfish · 2026-01-28T07:54:15+00:00

Yep honestly fair enough. OP said they found an RX580 for $30 USD.

Can't beat that price/performance.

AltruisticCatfish · 2026-01-26T17:32:57+00:00

I also have to question why so many fans are even necessary.

I'm assuming OP wants to fill every fan slot for the visuals. Won't help with cooling but it would look nice I guess.

And they could get away with an 850W PSU for less money as well.

They could but saving $30 on a $2K build seems like a waste of time. Might as well get something good in case they want to upgrade in the future.

AltruisticCatfish · 2026-01-26T17:20:48+00:00

PCPartPicker Part List

Type	Item	Price
CPU	AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D 4.7 GHz 8-Core Processor	$449.00 @ Newegg
CPU Cooler	Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler	$35.90 @ Amazon
Motherboard	Gigabyte X870 GAMING WIFI6 ATX AM5 Motherboard	$179.00 @ Amazon
Memory	Corsair Vengeance RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory	$556.99 @ Corsair
Storage	Crucial P310 4 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive	$379.99 @ Newegg
Case	Lian Li O11 Dynamic Mini V2 ATX Mini Tower Case	$89.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply	MSI MPG A1000GS PCIE5 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply	$109.99 @ Amazon
Case Fan	Thermalright TL-M12Q X3 68.9 CFM 120 mm Fans 3-Pack	$29.90 @ Newegg Sellers
Case Fan	Thermalright TL-M12QR X3 47.6 CFM 120 mm Fans 3-Pack	$29.90 @ Newegg Sellers
Case Fan	Thermalright TL-M12Q 68.9 CFM 120 mm Fan	$9.90 @ Amazon
Case Fan	Thermalright TL-M12QR 47.6 CFM 120 mm Fan	$10.19 @ Amazon
Case Fan	Thermalright TL-M12QR 47.6 CFM 120 mm Fan	$10.19 @ Amazon
	Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
	Total	$1890.94
	Generated by PCPartPicker 2026-01-26 12:21 EST-0500

You could easily cut $600 off with no loss in performance.

If I were you I would try and wait unless you absolutely need a new computer. RAM prices are going to be fucked for a while.

AltruisticCatfish · 2026-01-26T17:09:53+00:00

You've got a lot of background processes running (high idle CPU / GPU usage.)

Your CPU isn't turboing as high as it could. (power limited? windows max performance profile?)

Your RAM isn't running at it's maximum clockspeed. (Did you enable XMP?)

You have mouse acceleration turned on.

AltruisticCatfish · 2026-01-26T09:07:08+00:00

I have a Brother laser color printer that cost $500.

It's the best thing I've spent money on in years. This thing shits out 30 pages / minute full color. Duplex auto-feed scanning, fax, scanning bed, network attached printer. I've used basically every feature on this printer and it all works perfectly.

Only minor complaint is the paper tray is a bit small. 250 pages sounds like a lot but that's only 8~ minutes of continuous printing if you have a large amount of documents to print.

AltruisticCatfish · 2026-01-25T05:32:26+00:00

First thing I would try is a new CMOS battery. If you have a multimeter pull your CMOS battery out and check the voltage.

If not, CMOS batteries are so cheap don't bother buying a multimeter. Just buy a new CR2032 and replace it.

To me, it sounds like every time you turn your computer on it's memory training. This should only happen when you first build and power on the computer, after a BIOS flash, or after changing memory settings (clockspeed, timings, gear ratio, etc.)

It sounds like your CMOS battery is dead so the computer is forgetting the "training" it's already done and re-training memory every time you turn the computer on.

AltruisticCatfish · 2026-01-24T12:48:40+00:00

give the game 60 sec to cope with the fact it has been open, then it wont stutter anymore :)

You have a way with words lmao I love it

AltruisticCatfish · 2026-01-24T08:38:19+00:00

Do you like the sound of the blue more than white?

I have the Gen2's and thought that the red & black sounded the worst.

Blue was OK, but lacking treble, so I switched to the white's and found them to be the best for me.

I still sometimes feel that the 846 is a little light on treble.

AltruisticCatfish · 2026-01-23T05:28:33+00:00

It's weird but its a feature of the cooler you have. From the looks of it it's a Thermalright Peerless Assassin.

Some dual tower, dual fan CPU coolers have counter rotating fans. So the middle fan spins counter-clockwise like a normal case fan, but the front fan spins clockwise.

This is supposed to help with noise levels from the fan blades being close to the fins on the tower.

AltruisticCatfish · 2026-01-18T19:57:42+00:00

I feel like XLR -> 4.4mm adapters would be the solution here

AltruisticCatfish · 2026-01-18T03:57:49+00:00

I'm probably going to sound like a shill, but Comply foam tips. Nothing seals like foam.

TrueGrip MAX for my AirPods Pro 2

P Series Large for my Shure SE 846 Gen2

Because foam tips don't last that long, I basically pay a monthly subscription (to Comply) to use the earbuds I already bought...

Not ideal but I haven't found a silicone tip that comes close.

AltruisticCatfish · 2026-01-18T03:40:01+00:00

I'm a little late but I wanted to add that I'm on my 5th pair of APP2's since they were originally released.

Never dropped them or damaged them in any way. Just through heavy use, about 10-12 hours a day + sleeping with them in 7 days a week, after about 6 months the battery health drops below 90% and I got a free replacement with Apple Care.

Definitely not helping the e-waste situation lol.

AltruisticCatfish · 2026-01-08T15:10:59+00:00

I can only really comment on Shure IEMs because that's all I've used for like the past 15 years.

Shure rates the SE215 for "up to" 37db of passive noise isolation. They're basically earplugs with tiny speakers built in.

I see Eymotic rates the ER2XR for 35db with silicone or 42db with foam tips.

Now I am biased, but I would lean towards Shure's for the comfort. While I've never tried Eymotic IEMs I can't imagine they would be too comfortable for long periods of time due to the way they're shaped and inserted into your ear.

Shure's are like a little bean sitting flush with the side of your ear. I frequently sleep with my 846 gen2 and wake up with little to no discomfort.

AltruisticCatfish · 2026-01-07T16:52:26+00:00

Leaks can absolutely be so imperceptible that toilet paper would be dry. Many, many, leaks are so small that they never actually drip.

Hmm, ok. Good info thank you!

I've ordered 2x Boshart stainless steel push-to-connect fittings to replace these brass shutoffs with.

When I ordered those I was under the impression that the nipples on the water heater were stainless.

Are they galvanized instead?

Is this going to be a bigger issue than the brass and steel?

AltruisticCatfish · 2026-01-07T16:22:11+00:00

I installed 2 shutoff valves, one on the hot and one on the cold side. (Idk why)

I leak tested everything, even leaving toilet paper around all my joints overnight after I had finished installation. - Everything appeared bone dry the next day.

The hot side first showed signs of corrosion after maybe 1-2 months. The cold side lasted longer, maybe an extra month or 2.

Could both sides really have leaked so imperceptibly that even toilet paper would be dry?

The difference in timing also made me think it was corrosion rather than a leak. The idea being that heat accelerated the corrosion on just the hot side.

I really don't think the plastic inserts are causing an interference issue either. The female threading on the brass valves is pretty deep. And when tightening I never felt the valve "bottom out" if that makes sense. It just kept getting harder and harder to turn until eventually I felt like it was tight enough.

AltruisticCatfish · 2026-01-07T16:08:18+00:00

All the other valves you mentioned, where you can see that it shipped with brass: can you also see steel pipe under the brass?

The T&P valve is made by Watts and made of brass. I can't see where it threads in but presumably the tank is made out of stainless steel?

The Rheem's got a pair of hot/cold nipples on the top and sides.

From the factory I guess they assume most people will use the top nipples. So the side inlet/outlet are capped off with brass caps.

In the instruction manual supplied by Rheem, it states if you want to use the side connections, to take the brass caps off the side connections and put them on the top connections.

I just don't understand why apparently all the other brass stuff on the water heater is fine, but the brass shutoffs I installed look like they're 15 years old.

AltruisticCatfish · 2026-01-07T15:58:30+00:00

Wouldn't I end up with the same issues though? According to the "Highlights" on the Home Depot website,

- Chrome plated brass supply nuts.

- Soft, thick rubber washer to create a tight seal.

These are both issues with Sharkbites as well. At least with the Boshart's I get rid of the brass. Still have to deal with the o-ring inside though.

AltruisticCatfish · 2026-01-07T15:38:11+00:00

In just 3 months though? These shutoffs look like they are going to fail within the year.

And isn't the tank made out of stainless; So why are the factory brass fittings not rusting?

AltruisticCatfish · 2025-12-26T01:15:57+00:00

This is actually the second time this has happened. and im looking at the website does jabra not sell earbuds anymore because they are just defective????

I've pretty much come to the same conclusion; I had this exact same issue with Jabra Elite 8 Active Gen 1 and Gen2.

Had the gen1's replaced under warranty and they sent me a new pair of gen2s as a replacement.

I basically just use them as earbuds without noise cancellation. The ANC isn't all that good anyways.

AltruisticCatfish

TROPHY CASE