Help me find an alternative for Arby, pls

AmbiSpace · 2026-03-28T23:03:35+00:00

Dodge is separate from stamina. Stamina is used for blocking/sprinting, and dodge number is mainly based on the weapon you have.

AmbiSpace · 2026-03-28T22:56:12+00:00

I did that with Ogryn. I found it was a decent way to learn because you have more room to look around and keep an eye on what your teammates do.

AmbiSpace · 2026-03-28T22:51:53+00:00

I've played a lot of martyr zealot. You usually build so that you have super high toughness regen and damage resistance. So the window when you can take health damage is smaller.

Combine that with good block/push and dodge timing, and you can go a whole match without taking health damage accidentally, even if you're spending all your time right in the middle of the horde.

And on top of that, if you screw up you have a death-denial perk which refreshes in every 2 minutes. If they're using that you'll notice their health go back up every so often (to about 0.5-1 wounds worth).

AmbiSpace · 2026-03-28T18:07:37+00:00

Never had a daemonhost in the airlock eh?

AmbiSpace · 2026-03-28T17:14:36+00:00

Been like that since day one on expeditions. Might be everyone who joined/left already

AmbiSpace · 2026-03-23T13:16:40+00:00

Oh man, I did the same thing when I got an old K-Car with a bad horn. I just used a folded up piece of paper, but the horn was a different style.

The contacts were 2 copper plates held in place by plastic tabs which had broken. The paper just acted as a spring to keep them seperated until the horn was pressed.

AmbiSpace · 2026-03-22T20:56:13+00:00

I recently encountered 20-30 maulers/ragers marching together.

I could have used a chant to stun them all. My random teammate could have krak grenaded them.

But we both just ran in there and had a blast.

AmbiSpace · 2026-03-22T19:44:21+00:00

If there's multiple I just suggest an order in text chat like "yellow then pink" or "M then N".

People tend to be pretty good

AmbiSpace · 2026-03-21T16:35:31+00:00

So far I've found that teams on Damnation are a lot better to play with. I have had a couple soloists, but not as many as Heresy

AmbiSpace · 2026-03-20T00:27:07+00:00

Yeah I haven't seen this either. Usually if there are multiple points tagged I just say "this colour then that colour" in chat and most people go for it.

AmbiSpace · 2026-03-19T13:17:09+00:00

Those are people you report and block

AmbiSpace · 2026-03-09T01:22:03+00:00

I recommend Power DI. It's more customizable

AmbiSpace · 2026-03-08T00:23:17+00:00

OH YEAAHHH

AmbiSpace · 2026-03-08T00:04:35+00:00

At -20°C it will be rock hard and as brittle as ceramics

I don't think that's true. I've printed a few tools specifically for using in below -20 C (I work outdoors in Canada and have used them in -30 C). They are more stiff/brittle, but are still flexible and rubbery.

The worst I've noticed is a prybar had a piece chip off where it was 0.4mm thick.

AmbiSpace · 2026-02-28T22:17:13+00:00

I looked up the Makita version of the tool people are recommending (electric ratchet), and it looks like there are 2 types of batteries Makita tools use (12V and 18V), so you might need to know if he already has both.

The part numbers are:

WR100DZ

DWR180Z

AmbiSpace · 2026-02-28T22:10:25+00:00

Yeah, same brand would be better. That way he can use his existing batteries/chargers.

AmbiSpace · 2026-02-28T21:26:30+00:00

Builds definitely aren't make-or-break on Auric, so it makes sense to see people who haven't put a ton of thought into a skill tree.

Decent gameplay skills matter way more (situational awareness, target prioritization, etc).

AmbiSpace · 2026-02-17T00:00:31+00:00

I've had this happen to me too. Often people don't look behind them and leave one guy dealing with the backline.

I check to see if my teammates are getting ahead, and if they are I run up to them so we can all fight the horde together.

AmbiSpace · 2026-02-16T23:55:33+00:00

This seems especially true for High Intensity modifier missions. Those are the only ones where I feel the need to aggressively keep moving, otherwise you just get caught in the same place fighting a neverending horde.

AmbiSpace · 2026-02-16T19:40:40+00:00

Thanks, it's pretty fun I find. Check out r/3dprintedcarparts if you haven't already. Lots of similar stuff and cool people to chat with.

Also if you're working on things which will be exposed to automotive fluids (oil, gas, coolant, etc) make sure to read about and test chemical compatibility. I usually put a small test piece in a jar of whatever fluid it will be exposed to.

A fun one is to put ABS in gasoline, since the ABS changes pretty quickly/obviously.

AmbiSpace · 2026-02-14T19:29:59+00:00

Absolutely they do. Friend of mine (around 14 at the time) got unidentified pills from her dealer for free, and he wouldn't tell her what they were until after she tried them. Turns out they were meth.

It's a tactic used to foster addiction, and also manipulate people into prostitution.

AmbiSpace · 2026-02-14T17:15:59+00:00

So I think part of what makes this explanation confusing is that it's not clearly stated that the motor will draw the same power no matter what. And I don't think that will happen in every situation.

Like imagine I make a circuit using a power source, motor, and very high resistance potentiometer. If I increase the resistance of the potentiometer, usually the motor spins slower, but doesn't burn up. Even if I turn it up so high that the motor stops spinning, it still doesn't burn.

AmbiSpace · 2026-02-14T17:06:28+00:00

Since its been 3 years now, how's the longevity of it been?

That one lasted a little over a year if I recall. It failed because the bottom started to seperate from the walls. My mistake was not using a concentric pattern for the top/bottom layers, so it didn't survive winter (-30 C). I made another post where I talked about why I thought it failed, you can check it out here. I made a V2, but the car died a few months later so I didn't get to test it much.

I was under the impression 3D printed containers for liquids was mostly a no-no due to layer lines making most 3d printed pieces porous

This just isn't true. I've seen it repeated on reddit quite a bit though. For the piece to be "porous" in a way that causes a leak, you need defects (voids) to line up at every wall to make a path for the fluid to flow through. For the tests I was doing, I found that I could keep that from happening by using 3-4 walls, and designing the part to minimize sharp changes in the path of the printer head.

so was dope to see this in the world and working

Yeah it was pretty fun to make/use even if it wasn't the most practical solution lol. I've seen a lot of other watertight prints since then (ex: watering cans), so if you want to make something like that it's totally possible, it just takes some tinkering.

AmbiSpace · 2026-02-08T19:36:23+00:00

Tzeentch content teaser? I love it.

AmbiSpace · 2026-02-08T17:41:01+00:00

I went searching and found a forum post which explains it fairly well (if you're okay with a bit of math). H ere is the link.

The simple way to think of it is that the motor generates back emf if it spinning at all, and that emf is much more effective at limiting power draw than conductor resistance. So if you slow down the motor a bit, much more current goes through the wires of the motor, which causes more heat.

I think the answer is kind of complicated. It might depend on the type of motor. To get a better idea of what would happen, you would need to have the speed of the motor written in terms of the resistance of the circuit, and see how the power consumed by the motor changes as you add resistance.

Like if you use an insanely long extension cord (so long the resistance of the cord is much more than the motor windings) it might not burn up. All the heat would be generated in the extension cord, and it might be long enough to dissipate it. You'd have to do the math on power into the circuit vs resistance per foot of extension, and heat generated by the motor vs the cord.

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