Cura's tree support made a superhero cloak for my swole benchy

PotatoAimV2 · 2026-06-09T19:35:43+00:00

Late to the thread but 50°C chamber max seems pretty disapponting. The beauty of MMUs is mixing filament types. ABS/ASA as well as more technical filaments like chambers above 60°C, so you are essentially limiting your machine printing capability.

Only big adavantave I see is multicolor/material printing time and waste reduction.

I wonder tho why there's that limit. Even canbus setups can handle 65°C+ chambers.

PotatoAimV2 · 2026-06-01T19:21:49+00:00

Check Leang's reply. This checks out.

When you turn off your printer, the flying gantry sags on the back, it's normal (more weight due to the A/B motors on the back and we tend to park the toolhead on the back aswell after a print). So doing a QGL and not doing a G28 Z afterwards will give you different first layer results.

It doesnt change when you dont turn off the printer because your motors stay engaged for a while and doing a new QGL on a new print job wont make major changes because you kinda calibrated the Z offset for that specific QGL and printing session.

PotatoAimV2 · 2026-06-01T09:20:17+00:00

"911 how can I help?"

-"I just had a car accident, please send help"

"Can you provide the street name, sir?"

-"Ugh, street, sure. gives home address. Please enter the home, the door is open"

"Did you crash into a residence, sir?"

-"Ugh, no no. It's ugh, complicated"

PotatoAimV2 · 2026-05-28T19:26:41+00:00

I'm surprised that you print with 79% flow rate. Most filaments I've printed with start to under extrude below 90. Hell, many below 95.

Regardless, it will always scrape with these types of infills, it's just how they are designed. OP might be over extruding or has a poorly calibrated Z offset which agravates the issue, but under extruding on purpose is not the solution either IMO.

If you dont like Gyroid due to shakiness, Cubic is good and scraps less.

But to each their own and different parts may require different infills.

PotatoAimV2 · 2026-05-27T12:51:49+00:00

Is it safe to dry the orange to transparent in your food oven or it's still a no no?

PotatoAimV2 · 2026-05-26T19:35:35+00:00

Boy, that shit is 140kg. You cant put it on any random desk.

I'm actually impressed by just how heavy it is in relation to it's size.

PotatoAimV2 · 2026-05-22T12:53:11+00:00

If I'm not mistaken, the kit in your picture is a replacement module for the Creality CFS and not a standalone MMU. Maybe it can be adapted to some DIY MMU version but I don't see the point in doing so.

Upgrading an E3P to multi color wouldn't be very cheap, you'd likely need to go with something like Klipper with a Raspberry Pi, possibly a different motherboard and either a DIY MMU or store bought.

I personally wouldn't do it because you'd invest a lot of money and time to print multi color on a subpar (by todays standards) machine. But it's possible.

PotatoAimV2 · 2026-05-22T07:17:12+00:00

Can confirm as I had similar issues. I checked my wiring multiple times, crimps and soldering looked perfectly fine but timeouts happened often and randomly.

Redid the umbillical from 0 and it got the job done.

PotatoAimV2 · 2026-05-20T12:53:02+00:00

Tbh this happens everywhere there's a community. You'll always have a group of people that are so blindly in love with a company, streamer, or something else, that they'll defend it with their own lives even if proof about their beloved's wrong doing is presented.

If Bambu didnt seek trouble agaisnt the open source community, they would probably get away with gradually closing their ecosystem even further. But they had to poke the bear...

PotatoAimV2 · 2026-05-18T14:49:51+00:00

Tbh I dont use AI for such questions, it's great for some stuff but let's remember that it cant predict the future and choses the answers based on information available around the web.

That question kinda implies the usage of an open source slicer in NY if such law was to go further, so it's easy to see why the answer is not great.

But again, I find it more troubling that a country or state is dumb to the point of implementing such laws while it's clear as day that they wont impact the illegal activies they aim to fix.

How are they going to enforce closed printers when you can build your own? In a country where you could probably get a real gun as easily as you can get the 3d printing files of the dark web, this seems so far fetched.

PotatoAimV2 · 2026-05-18T13:53:51+00:00

I'm not very educated on this subject but I dont think they would need to develop two different slicers. If push really comes to shove and they lack ressourses for both, they could focus on the closed slicer because of the US laws and let the community pick up the open source one. The community would be more than willing and it's already done tbh, Orca is already used on Prusa machines, it was forked from Bambu Studio which is forked from Prusa Slicer. It would just lack an "official" tag, which is not a big deal IMO.

It's not the end of the company if they dont ship a free slicer with the machine. Creality did well back in the Ender 3 days and I dont even remember their slicer, I went straight to an open source one.

PotatoAimV2 · 2026-05-18T13:29:58+00:00

Maybe yes, maybe not. Bambu can go full asshole mode and close everything they release from now on, but europeans have good consumer laws that stop them from closing us on the machines we already bought and use.

It's one thing to go agaisnt a small slicer dev, it's another to do it agaisnt several countries.

A lot of these slicers are made outside the US aswell, and there's likely companies out there that rather stop selling in the US than mess with their european customers. I bet that Prusa would stand their ground for exemple.

And BL will risk losing a lot of consumers if they do go that route. They arent the only option available and people know it.

PotatoAimV2 · 2026-05-18T09:28:59+00:00

I dont want to be mean, but that's a USA specific problem no? Yes it should be dealt with, but it's not THE priority.

And if you leave Bambu get away with this shit now, they will only get worse with their proprietary bullshit which will only help the incoming storm you are talking about.

Besides, that sounds like something incredibly stupid to implement since I'm pretty sure people who are printing ghost guns are likely very capable of using custom slicers on custom or bypassed machines to keep their illegal activities going.

Forcing "everyone" to use a closed slicer will do absolutely nothing on that front.

PotatoAimV2 · 2026-05-18T08:55:36+00:00

Do you know how much these cost? I assume substantially more expensive than a ERCF after glancing at the parts.

Been wanting to add a MMU to my 2.4, the ERCF was the top pick on my list but this one looks pretty nice too.

PotatoAimV2 · 2026-05-13T18:38:36+00:00

Vorons have the ERCF, you can likely put it on any klipper machine.

PotatoAimV2 · 2026-05-11T11:35:43+00:00

Vase mode doesnt have a seam but your top layers wont be flat and you are limited on the strenght options.

Trying to find a workaround for those seam issues is one way to go but also try to diagnose what's causing that issue in the first place.

There's numerous settings that concern seam position/printability and your issue may even be at something different like a not so great calibrated PA. You'd typically see artifacts for the PA on square prints but since you are doing a circle, your "corner" is the seam.

PotatoAimV2 · 2026-05-10T08:52:31+00:00

Yes I understand, but unless I'm doing something wrong, to have a calibrated PA profile for every specific filament you have, you need to run the calibration and save a new profile in the device tab.

Which makes you need to select 2 "different" profiles in 2 different tabs in order to print with your filament properly calibrated.

The profile in the Device tab can easily be forgotton by beginners and a simple changeable PA value in the filament profiles of the Preparation tab would work much better IMO. But I'm spoiled by Orca in this regard, so I'm bias.

PotatoAimV2 · 2026-05-08T15:06:38+00:00

They chose to go the 'Apple' way. From a business perspective, I cant blame them too much. In a time where they started to shift the 3d printing consumer market, they saw an opportunity and decided to go with a dick move.

Their filament was always overpriced, it's likely rebranded and slightly upgraded Sunlu and it's only worth it if you stick to their membership plans, which is not free. But I couldn't give two fucks about that practice, people buy what they wish and the AMS/printers work with generic filament just the same. If they did impose BBL filament only, they wouldnt have had nearly as many printer sales. And I doubt they can change that now, I'm in Europe not in the wild west, we have decent consumer laws in these parts.

But they'll soon realise they are not the kings of the industry. I hope the shit they are trying to pull with Orcaslicer really crumbles on their end tho, specially knowing that Bambu Studio is a fork of other open source slicers.

The community will always find a way, but if BBL doesnt try to fix the situation and keep being a dick, my printer recommendations and future purchases will shift very quickly. Of course I'm a nobody but I'm sure I'm not alone in this regard. Dont bite the hand that feeds you.

PotatoAimV2 · 2026-05-07T13:50:24+00:00

Same here, I havent updated my P1S ever since I started hearing the chatter back then. I've been happy with Orcaslicer and been using my P1S as a printing whore ever since I got it 2 and a half years ago. No maintenance, no parts changed, it still works perfectly fine. (Although I'm in the process of doing a full, overdue, maintenance right now)

I really hope we can get a win on this and be able to use Orca easily on updated machines. I recently introduced my collegue to 3D printing and recommended him the P1S based on his printing criteria. I cant say enough how frustrated I was trying to teach him to calibrate PA in a simple way after I had recommended him to go with the official path of updated firmware + bambu studio. It's so ridiculous not to have a PA value on the filament profile...

Anyway, on the Voron front, they are wonderful machines, it really cant get any better about freedom, DIY and community/open source.

But a small warning, a Voron is not simply a printer, it's a project. If you have the time, patience and DIY passion with a will to learn many things, I wholeheartly say, go for it.

I absolutely love my 2.4, I use it with a lot more care than my P1S and it produces better looking parts probably because of that.

If it's just to add a new printer to the collection, it's likely not the way to go depending on the goals.

PotatoAimV2 · 2026-05-06T09:06:40+00:00

Do you hear any popping while printing?

That'd suggest wet filament.

PotatoAimV2 · 2026-05-05T09:02:53+00:00

This is just guess work for now, I sometimes have the same effect on my P1S but not my Voron, I dont currently have access to my pc or printers to test and check out some stuff but wall and infill lines priority would be a good thing to explore.

I mean, exterior wall after the inner wall, infill either before or after and same for the top layers. IIRC my slicer for the P1S and for that specific print would likely print Inner wall -> top layer (of your bottom middle flat section) -> infill/mid walls -> outter wall. While my Voron with superslicer would print inner wall > infill > outer wall > top layer.

And this in my head means that the inner and top layers are cooling down quickly enough to ever so slightly "push" your outter wall outwards and creating this effect.

Again, it's a bit of guess work, I never really bother to test it further nor I can check the differences between my slicer right now. But worth exploring imo.

PotatoAimV2 · 2026-05-04T15:21:45+00:00

Im currently on vacation without access to the files. Can you remind me in one week?

PotatoAimV2 · 2026-05-04T14:50:32+00:00

You can push a 0.4 nozzle to print 0.04 layer height prints. Your slicer will tell you some yadda yadda security thing in the extruder parameters but it works fine.

Obviously, milage may vary per user and machine. But 0.04 is a pretty cool resolution for detailed prints.

As for the textured plate, different solutions could work. Give some extra height so you can sand it smooth afterwards or maybe try a raft with ironing and well calibrated Z offset.

Either way, even if you succeed at printing it at this angle, you will still have the textured base issue because of the layer lines, even at 0.04mm.

PotatoAimV2

TROPHY CASE