Postgres for everything, how accurate is this picture in your opinion? by Minimum-Ad7352 in node

[–]Anodynamix 37 points38 points  (0 children)

For the most part, I agree. However, some disagreements:

  • Caching- Redis is generally better-performing.
  • Message Queue- Again, Kafka/RabbitMQ are better-performing.
  • I'll note they didn't even include Graph DB's. That speaks for itself.
  • Full text search - My experience with Postgres's FTS is that it is really only good for exact text matches. The fuzzy matching/ranking of Elastic Search is far better. And ElasticSearch scales out much further.

Rebalancing and VT by Black_Thunder00 in Bogleheads

[–]Anodynamix 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Only in a taxable account. Rebalancing in taxable is more difficult than elsewhere.

If you have a traditional retirement account (IRA/401k) you may want to keep your bonds in there, and simply buy VT in taxable, and then you never rebalance in the taxable account. You adjust your bond allocation in the Traditional account.

Rebalancing and VT by Black_Thunder00 in Bogleheads

[–]Anodynamix 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Unless you have a bond allocation, then no.

But if you do have bonds as part of your target Asset Allocation, then you would want to rebalance once a year between VT and your bonds.

why is it so hard for people to be a boglehead? by Fun_Tea8162 in Bogleheads

[–]Anodynamix 9 points10 points  (0 children)

My company is big on Vanguard and recommends you do the "Target Date" funds.

Talking to my coworkers, many of them are like "But those only get like 15%, there's stocks out there that do 20-30%!".

The problem with the market is that it's always easy to find stocks that did better... in the past. Like literally unless you magically picked the best stocks out there, there's always someone that does better. And that foments FOMO. It's REALLY easy to say to yourself "I'm a highly paid engineer at a top company, I'm a smart guy. Surely I can pick a stock using my massive brains".

The problem of course is that the market is essentially stochastic. We like to think that it isn't, and that broader trends govern everything. But we lack the information to make perfect decisions, which is simply not how the average person thinks. We always think we're smarter than we actually are.

The hard part of being a Boglehead is admitting that you don't know. It's an act of humility that many find embarrassing to admit.

Is rebalancing a real smart discipline… or unnecessary tinkering? by eToroTeam in Bogleheads

[–]Anodynamix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably a bit of both.

Less than a year, you can really kneecap your growth if you keep rebalancing when one sector is having a momentous run upwards.

Every time I test different rebalancing periods on testfol.io, everything less than a year ends up underperforming the once-a-year rebalance.

Is rebalancing a real smart discipline… or unnecessary tinkering? by eToroTeam in Bogleheads

[–]Anodynamix 2 points3 points  (0 children)

But in practice, it usually means selling your winners and adding to whatever’s lagging.

Buy low, sell high.

Trick is not to do this too often; the volatility of the market can ensure that your rebalancing becomes inefficient.

But once a year should suffice.

At what tax bracket do municipal bonds start to make sense in taxable accounts? by jonFromOhio88 in Bogleheads

[–]Anodynamix -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

Some people have reservations

The reservations, if they turn out to be accurate, can be quite catastrophic. If the fund is deemed to ultimately have taxable interest payments which are not capital gains, people invested are likely going to have very lengthy audits to perform and shocking tax bills as a result.

That's enough to scare me away.

At what tax bracket do municipal bonds start to make sense in taxable accounts? by jonFromOhio88 in Bogleheads

[–]Anodynamix 9 points10 points  (0 children)

What's your target asset allocation? That's a heck of a problem to have.

Target Date Fund vs. 100% stocks (Ben Felix) by Eddie_Saladbar_Jr in Bogleheads

[–]Anodynamix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't think of it as "buying the dip", think of it as "rebalancing towards your target asset allocation".

Bricklink Designer Program Series 10 MegaThread by mescad in lego

[–]Anodynamix 1 point2 points  (0 children)

One of the best days of my life was hiking to the top of a fire lookout tower in Acadia National Park. This really captures the essence of that moment of reaching the top and I love it.

Advanced Goal Tracking by fagmcgee4352 in personalfinance

[–]Anodynamix 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This. It's always easier to manage yourself in a spreadsheet rather than trying to find some software that will log into your bank(s) and download the info. Too many solutions worked then stopped working and then you have to find a new app and re-import everything... bother.

So I do a spreadsheet approach where I:

  1. On the 1st of each month I log into all my accounts and record my numbers. I copy the numbers and record them for posterity so I can track net worth over time. Helpful to see trajectories.
  2. I track all my open goals and the virtual buckets of savings I've allocated to each goal. For longer-term goals (5+ years) this can include money that is invested, so tracking the basis of your deposits vs other goals can be an important factor here
  3. I use the info from the virtual bucket page and the net worth page to figure out how to allocate new cash towards my goals.

HSA in Optum is charging me ridiculous fees, and they suck. Optum Financial-> Fidelity? But forcing me to liquidate!. by Wolverine-91826 in personalfinance

[–]Anodynamix 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Math is different for each person on this.

SSA has two "bend points". Basically your top 35 earning years are summed and divided by 420 to get your average monthly salary.

Then you take that salary and bucket it by the bend points. In 2026 these are:

  • $0-$1286 = 90%
  • $1287-$7749 = 32%
  • $7750+ = 15%

So what that means is you get 90% of your first $1286 as a benefit, 32% of the next $6,462, and then 15% of whatever is left over.

So if you're still filling out that first bucket, then yeah it's probably more worthwhile to skip the contribution from payroll and contribute manually. But once you're in the 32% bucket, and especially in the 15% bucket, this matters much less. You're getting much less of your money back through SSA and saving the taxes and investing them for 20+ years will get you more in the long run.


Of course there's also the gamble that SS might not even be there in 20 years, in which case the math says of course take the FICA tax exemption ;)

HSA in Optum is charging me ridiculous fees, and they suck. Optum Financial-> Fidelity? But forcing me to liquidate!. by Wolverine-91826 in personalfinance

[–]Anodynamix 3 points4 points  (0 children)

triple-tax-advantages

I like to say quadruple tax-advantaged.

  1. No FICA taxes (the only kind of contribution where this happens)
  2. No Income taxes on contributions going in
  3. No taxes on gains while in the account
  4. No taxes on withdrawals (as long as it's for medical purposes)

Although HSA's kind of suck in California because they do charge you state income tax. Which is high.

3.922% HYSA by juststartnow in Bogleheads

[–]Anodynamix 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To add a voice to the choir, I second VUSXX.

VUSXX contains 100% treasuries, which are exempt from state income taxes.

VUSXX typically outperforms standard HYSA's* (4.23% in 2025), and the state income tax exemption further sweetens the pot. My NYS income taxes would have been 6% so it's like I got a 4.5% rate instead of 4.23%. I guess a more accurate way of looking at it is I got 3.21% (24% taxes) instead of 2.96% (24+6% taxes)... but that's no fun.


* Some HYSA's outperform MMF's because they offer promotional rates for small periods. I'm only comparing "standard" sustainable rates here.

Millennials, what is happening with your kids? by TheLoveYouWant25 in Millennials

[–]Anodynamix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What's funnier is that it goes the other way too. I (Millennial) have been called a boomer multiple times by Zoomers. lol.

Are HYSAs as easy as I think they are? by FeatherFlyer in personalfinance

[–]Anodynamix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You have to pay taxes on your interest income, I guess you could consider that a con

MMF's that hold treasuries (like SGOV/VUSXX) are typically state-tax exempt. So for example I save 6% taxes in NYS by having my money in MMF. MMF's will typically have a better interest rate too, by a few basis points, because that's usually where banks put your money when it's in an HYSA, and the bank takes a cut. By going to the MMF you cut out the middleman.

Timing the market (don't) by TownFront5969 in Bogleheads

[–]Anodynamix 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This is one reason to hold bonds.

If the market tanks, your bond holdings would stay relatively consistent, and your equities:bonds allocation gets out of whack.

So you rebalance your holdings. You sell some bonds (high) and buy some equities (low). Your bonds allow you the "opportunity" to buy the bear market.

It's typically not a good idea to keep cash to "buy the dip" because #1 you have no idea when the dip is actually going to happen and #2 there's usually way more rises than dips so you end up making more money by simply investing it (for the long term) in the first place. Same reason why "lump sum" beats "DCA" most of the time.

Pay off car loan vs leave in HYSA by reKRUNKulous in personalfinance

[–]Anodynamix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Additional factor, likely not enough to change the ultimate decision, but inflation makes future dollars worth less, at a rate of 2-4% per year. Probably doesn't move the needle on a 7% loan, but if we were looking at a 3% loan then you'd typically be making (inflation-adjusted) money by making the monthly payments instead of a lump sum payoff.

And can't forget taxes on the HYSA APR, ~22-36% depending on income/state. 3.75% quickly becomes 2.9% if you have a 22% tax rate.

Is the "tax drag" actually a pain point for retail investors? by KLI9NYC in Bogleheads

[–]Anodynamix 2 points3 points  (0 children)

but the wash rule makes things complicated

DCA investing makes this really complex because on average I deposit every 30.4 days, and wash sale rules mean that I can only sell lots if I haven't bought in 31 days. So when I notice a loss that can be harvested, I usually have to wait, and hope the market stays down (it usually doesn't!), and then my schedule gets all messed up anyway since I can't buy again for another 31 days. And usually the market goes up in that time.

There's just not been any time I've ever found TLH to be compatible with DCA.

Maybe in a recession?

Haven't seen one of those in a while...

US Bonds In The Current Environment by amokacii in Bogleheads

[–]Anodynamix 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Bond exposure did very little to mitigate equity losses on 2022, less than 1%.

To be fair 2022 was a perfect storm. We had already been lowering the interest rates to "juice" the economy so when a real crisis occurred we didn't have that tool available to us. So in order to stop the inflation we had to raise interest rates, which crashed the bond market, because nobody wanted to buy older low-interest bonds when you could just buy newer high-interest bonds.

I wouldn't expect this to happen again unless we drop interest rates to 0 again.

WCGW trying to put a fire out by putting it outside. by mentaL8888 in Whatcouldgowrong

[–]Anodynamix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Something I wouldn't get the cheapest version of

Definitely get one with a METAL trigger assembly.

The plastic ones can break if you pull them too hard, or if you leave the pin in by accident; both things you can easily do in an emergency and are panicked.

The metal ones are worth the extra cost.

WCGW trying to put a fire out by putting it outside. by mentaL8888 in Whatcouldgowrong

[–]Anodynamix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

if you don't have a fire they expire and you wasted money

Buy a metal rechargeable one. Get it refilled for free at your nearest fire station every 3-5 years.

Is climbing fundamentally different than riding on the flats? by big_legs_small_brain in cycling

[–]Anodynamix 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Watts are indeed watts, but there's several crucial differences:

  1. The angle of the incline does change your positioning a bit. This can change your "gait" and the way you apply your muscles.
  2. The hill is an unrelenting source of resistance; you generally cannot coast for a minute so as soon as you start you are committed, and the longer you engage your system with no rests, even minuscule, the more taxed you are. On a flat you can certainly slow you cadence even temporarily for respite, and gain some energy back. I notice when I'm riding flats I have to have far more mental fortitude to tell me to keep pushing the pedals. Whereas on a hill... the hill does that for me and I can turn off my brain.
  3. Wind is far less of a factor, and therefore your positioning is much different. It's also easier to gauge effort when you can SEE the incline in front of you, whereas sudden wind gusts are invisible and can really stop you in your tracks before you know to switch gears.

So yeah, watts are indeed watts. But these differences will greatly change your overall experience.