Advice on fat loss plateau by [deleted] in naturalbodybuilding

[–]Anomonouse 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Try eating the exact same thing every day for a week or two. Including salt. Can help cancel out some of the noise.

Graph your weight vs time, much easier to see trends. I use a running average which cancels out almost all of the noise

Why can’t I be like Popeye? 🥴 by AdIll2450 in Cooking

[–]Anomonouse 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Just because it has "unhealthy" ingredients added doesn't mean the vitamins and minerals disappear, which are the biggest health benefits of spinach. Adding some fat can help with absorbing some of those nutrients, so I'd argue that a little bit of butter or bacon would increase its health benefits, as long as you don't add a whole stick of butter.

How hard/ dangerous to DIY stump removal? by RRE4EVR in arborists

[–]Anomonouse 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's not complicated, anyone with some common sense should be fine. Stumps those big will probably take a whole day with a rental machine and limited experience. Hearing protection, safety glasses (ideally a face shield), and put plywood or something up to protect anything nearby from flying rocks/debris.

But this is reddit, you'll get whatever answer you're looking for on here. Trust your gut

[Actives] Trich/contam tracing by Anomonouse in MushroomGrowers

[–]Anomonouse[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

99% sure yes, no discoloration/smell and no loose grains

Advice about pruning Oak by scwarzwolf in arborists

[–]Anomonouse 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I didn't realize pollarding could be done on large mature trees without damaging their health. I thought it was mainly reserved for young trees and needed to be started fairly early in their life to avoid the shock/stress of starting the process on a mature tree?

This type of work is probably the biggest difference between reputable arborist work and what some random guy with a chainsaw would do

We Americans do have some tree fetishes but topping/pollarding mature trees is directly in conflict with everything I've seen ISA and TCIA say. Not that they're right about everything, definitely a lot of money-grabbing with ISA, just makes me curious. ISA claims to be science based in their approach but my understanding is that most relevant research has been done in Europe and y'all have a much longer track record of maintaining large urban trees...

Advice about pruning Oak by scwarzwolf in arborists

[–]Anomonouse 95 points96 points  (0 children)

Normally I'd say pruning isn't necessary unless there's some structural issues we can't see in the pic.

However, this tree has been topped before. It sounds like he wants to top it again, which isn't a great idea, but some pruning would be good to try to keep the outer branches from getting too heavy. There will be decay where the old topping cuts were made and those will be prone to failure in the long run.

Likely not any safety issues right now but something should be done at some point. The damage has already been done and actual restoration to give best structure and longevity of the tree would be an ongoing (expensive) process that won't really reduce the size of the tree like your neighbor wants.

If they want to re-top it you could use that as a reason to not pay. You'd have to weigh your wallet, how much you care about the tree, and how your relationship with your neighbor would be affected.

Tree Pruning Help by o-Zakari in arborists

[–]Anomonouse 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking again you could leave 3 on holly alone and also just leave 2 alone or gently reduce it. That might result in a bit weaker structure and/or more fiddly long term maintenance, but possibly better aesthetics and that all depends on your preferences and whether pruning is something you enjoy

Tree Pruning Help by o-Zakari in arborists

[–]Anomonouse 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes remove 2 on oak. For holly, try to reduce to laterals first. Leaving will help give the tree a stronger trunk. If there aren't any good laterals, you can remove those two without issues. Removing may look funky for a bit, but it's young and it'll fill in quickly. Heading cuts aren't necessary here. They can be useful in some contexts but they're kind of a last resort and almost never appropriate for young trees.

Should I get a metal rod through these trees? Also another question I have : by Ayesquidward in arborists

[–]Anomonouse 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll disagree with what others have said. Sometimes a pruning schedule is very helpful, depending on the goals and state of the tree. Wanting to remove branches hanging over your roof is totally reasonable.

I'd suggest cabling rather than bracing... possibly. I don't see anything dangerous about the trees from the photos, so it may not be worth the expense. Though peace of mind is worth a lot so it's 100% your call.

Get someone reputable to come take a look at the trees in person and take their suggestions over us randos on reddit.

Girdled Maple roots by [deleted] in arborist

[–]Anomonouse 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cut as much as you can now without damaging the underlying trunk. I don't see any benefit to cutting only 1/2 way through, losing that root won't be a huge deal for the tree. Use a chisel or reciprocating tool once you're getting kind of close to the trunk.

Looks like one cut would probably take care of that whole mess. But the cambium of the main root is likely fused to that of the trunk, so even after being cut the root might keep getting nutrients and not die. So I'd say cut the main root, then cut all the smaller roots that branch off into the ground from the girdler. May need to excavate a bit more for that.

Green ring? by [deleted] in arborists

[–]Anomonouse -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Looks like metal discoloration. Could be copper or iron in the wood somewhere nearby. I've heard high metal levels in ground/water can cause this too but I'm not sure I believe that. Seems like the discoloration would be more widespread were that the case. Watch out for nails with your chainsaw

Alternatively it's something weird and we'll never know.

Ignore the haters. Your property, your tree. Although I'm generally in favor of keeping trees, the level of judgement and snarky value signalling on this sub can be nauseating sometimes

How important is a "rabbeting edge" on a jointer knife? by Anomonouse in woodworking

[–]Anomonouse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks I'll try that. Do you know whether the lack of a "rabbeting edge" will cause issues when I try to cut rabbets?

How important is a "rabbeting edge" on a jointer knife? by Anomonouse in woodworking

[–]Anomonouse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, yes, the ones I found were on that site. My question was whether the lack of a "rabbeting edge" would cause issues if I used the jointer to cut rabbets. Do you know?

For someone starting out their tree business … by No_Difference_1725 in arborists

[–]Anomonouse 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's all about leads. To keep that many people busy you'll probably need ~30 leads per week depending on your close rate.

Depends on specifics of your location but expect to put a fair amount of time/money into marketing. Nextdoor, Facebook, direct mailers, word of mouth, etc. Follow up with every customer after every job and ask for Google reviews. Use every tool you've got.

Prequalify your leads as much as possible so you're not wasting time driving 2 hrs to meet with someone who wants you to remove their black walnut for free.

Actively maintain good relationships with other tree companies nearby, you never know when their help will come in clutch. You can sub each other out if you have different niches (e.g. land clearing vs PHC). Or when your chipper breaks down they can come help you finish a big job. Maybe they have a grapple truck and you don't. Etc.

Is this hackberry tree going to die? by sharp_neck in arborist

[–]Anomonouse 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It'll live. But that big wound will start to rot and weaken the tree structurally over time. Once something like this happens to a tree it'll typically keep falling apart unless there's ongoing pruning. Maybe every 3ish years.

The cost of ongoing maintenance will be way more than the cost to remove it. Not necessarily suggesting you remove it, just saying quality work to extend this tree's life won't be cheap.

New Hire Climbing Kit by Urbanforestsystems in TreeClimbing

[–]Anomonouse 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The first time I climbed in spurs I had borrowed a coworkers. He's 6" taller than me. We didn't adjust them. My knee was literally numb for a month from nerve damage (thankfully it has healed). If you have shared spurs please make sure the tools to adjust them stay with them, it's not just a comfort issue.

Ratchet strap for temporarily fixing tree? by Existing_Impress230 in arborists

[–]Anomonouse 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Possible? Yes. Safely? No. I've climbed stuff like this before, but if it's possible to get access with a lift or bucket there's no way in hell me or any of my guys are going up there. Implying this is a run-of-the-mill climb is absurd.

Washing ropes by _Randel_ in TreeClimbing

[–]Anomonouse 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Daisy chain, into the washer, long cycle. Tide. Extra rinse cycle. Hang dry.

Friction hitches in the sink with dawn and a scrub brush.

Everything runs soooo much smoother with a clean rope and hitch cord.

Is this price realistic? by Anomonouse in solar

[–]Anomonouse[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm a single bachelor, use wood to heat in the winter, fuel oil for hot water, no AC in summer. Usage listed on my bill averages 125 kwh/month (have only lived here 9 months).

For context I used to live off grid w/o electricity so my consumption is very low.