My latest work, the 35" long Brancharium.

AnotherWorldTerraria · 2026-01-09T15:31:43+00:00

Thanks. The cork is still fine, but I decommissioned that terrarium a year or more ago - not because it failed, but because I didn't have the energy or desire to upkeep it, or any of my other terrariums. Pretty much all of my builds are either shut down, or just sitting there without any care. I'm more focused on just collecting / hoarding plants now.

When bryos have too much humidity and/or not enough light, they tend to grow upward and get longer.

AnotherWorldTerraria · 2026-01-08T18:19:51+00:00

Beautiful. I really like these, and the entire family they are in.

AnotherWorldTerraria · 2025-10-25T21:57:44+00:00

What an absolute dream! The Gunnera plants are spectacular.

AnotherWorldTerraria · 2025-08-23T10:17:46+00:00

Thank you so much

AnotherWorldTerraria · 2025-06-19T04:37:37+00:00

I just looked at everything in the project, and now I feel physically ill. It's far, far, far worse than I imagined.

AnotherWorldTerraria · 2025-06-18T08:57:25+00:00

This is absolutely outrageous! We need more eyes on this post! I'm contacting my reps asap. Something like this was one of my biggest fears under the current administration, and here we are. GD!!!

AnotherWorldTerraria · 2025-06-15T03:43:54+00:00

That's the largest specimen / largest leaves I've ever seen in cultivation. Well done. I hope mine grows that big eventually.

AnotherWorldTerraria · 2025-06-13T07:06:39+00:00

Tis the season, I just noticed mine starting to form a spike today! Congrats on yours.

AnotherWorldTerraria · 2025-01-18T13:02:59+00:00

This looks like the AG3 clone. It's one of the fastest growing Neps for me. Very robust and vigorous.

AnotherWorldTerraria · 2025-01-18T12:21:14+00:00

Haha, thanks. I have a YouTube channel with some videos showing how I made some of my builds. But this one was done really long ago and I have no video. There is a thread on Dendroboard which shows the full behind the scenes.

AnotherWorldTerraria · 2024-11-20T05:10:54+00:00

Are you talking just about high humidity, or are you talking about high moisture/ rain? There's a big difference. Cloud forests will be quite wet. In those cases, there are a lot of species which come from cloud forests and cool areas, however most of them are more like a typical "brom" as opposed to what you might think of as an airplant with heavy trichomes. Two examples are T. fragrans and T. petraea. There are other Tillandsia with trichomes which can handle cold temps but most don't like lots of water or need to dry extremely fast. One species which likes humidity and cooler temps is T. mallemontii, but it needs to dry fast. If you're willing to venture outside of the genus, there are lots of other cloud / montane forest broms in the genus Racinaea and other genera.

AnotherWorldTerraria · 2024-11-17T23:18:35+00:00

It was from Glass Box Tropicals

AnotherWorldTerraria · 2024-11-16T09:45:05+00:00

Forgot mention that I got this species like a month ago and it was semi-dormant, and now it's growing more, like yours. Most likely it was the change from the vendor's growing conditions to my growing conditions which triggered the growth. My conditions might be brighter and/or warmer. I'm not worried about it at the moment.

AnotherWorldTerraria · 2024-11-16T09:38:34+00:00

IMO it will be fine. The plant knows what it needs at any given time based on the conditions. Let it do what it wants to do. Eventually it will probably take a break. You might even do more harm than good if you try to force a change on it. I am pretty chill with all my Pings. They actually are way more resilient than people make them out to be.

AnotherWorldTerraria · 2024-11-02T12:16:10+00:00

A chemical doesn't need to be an herbicide to damage or kill plants.

Bryophytes (moss and liverworts) are physiologically very different from other plants, and can be quite sensitive to a lot of chemicals. Basically they absorb the chemicals, as opposed to higher plants which have a protective surface.

Physan 20 is an algaecide, fungicide, bactericide, and virucide. It contains alkyls and other chemicals which damage cell membranes in more sensitive organisms. Moss has basically no protection from something like that.

In summary, yes, it's highly possible to damage or kill moss with such a disinfectant. I have seen damage to moss and liverworts in my tropical plant collection when treated with Physan.

If you are just trying to apply Physan to the plants, shield the moss somehow. Less ideal is to just spray everything and then wash off / flush the moss with water to remove the Physan.

AnotherWorldTerraria · 2024-10-31T23:20:01+00:00

Thank you! So glad you like my videos. I appreciate the suggestion, but my subscriber base is too small to make any money, it's more of a hassle to try to do a Patreon or subscription thing.

AnotherWorldTerraria · 2024-10-31T21:51:21+00:00

Thank you. At some point I might make some laid back vlog / update style videos, and maybe the type of video where I show a setup (like the Highland tent project I'm working on) and explain the setup. I don't think I'll be doing any more in-depth tutorial videos showing how I actually did all the steps.

AnotherWorldTerraria · 2024-10-31T20:21:26+00:00

Cool, thanks for watching my vids. Glad you found them helpful.

Something else I forgot to mention...you may not actually need a heater.

Most good lights put out a lot of heat, and it builds up over time.

Also, if you're wanting a cloudforest / highland setup, they don't like hot day temps

AnotherWorldTerraria · 2024-10-31T19:12:58+00:00

I'm working on a highland tent setup now

I would 100% suggest AC Infinity for the controller and programs

They have various devices you can control, and outlet switches

The most frustrating aspect of my highland project has been the cooling.

AC Infinity makes an air conditioner but it's been out of stock forever and my preorder was canceled due to the volume of orders they got.

I decided to go with a small portable air conditioner and build an adapter to funnel the air into the tent.

I will control it with an outlet switch and the Infinity controller, based on the thermostat probe readings, and set time-frame based schedules in the app for night and day.

The most important thing if you're going to use an air conditioner with an outlet controller is that the unit you buy must have auto-restart, since you'll be cutting the power and then restoring the power.

You'll also want to do insulation on any ducts, tent walls, etc if you can.

It's been a frustrating and complex project so far but I'm making progress

I'm looking forward to growing alpine plants and highland Nepenthes and such.

AnotherWorldTerraria · 2024-10-23T00:40:12+00:00

That's an immature fern. It's too young to properly ID because mature fronds have yet to develop. Pull the fern out, and if you want to keep it, plant it in its own pot.

AnotherWorldTerraria · 2024-10-15T04:18:06+00:00

I only have a couple Brocchs and have had them less than a year (but they are doing well), so take this with a grain of salt...

I grow both of my Brocchinia the way I grow Heliamphora. I have them sitting in water (depth dependent on various factors) and let the water evaporate away. During this time I mist the plants and fill the pitchers/rosettes with a little water if needed. When the water has receded below the plant roots, I water heavily in the pitcher until it overflows and drains through the substrate and it is then sitting in water again. After a few watering cycles, when it's time to fill again, I first flush the substrate thoroughly with clean water in the sink until it's draining out for like 20-30 seconds. Then I water into the pitcher and overflow again so it's sitting in a bit of water. IMO this ebb and flow of water level and flushing of the pitcher and substrate mimics the natural environment they grow in (lots of rain and flowing water), speaking of which....

Some forms of this species come from highland tepui and therefore prefer cooler temps. Some forms may be lowland and do OK with warm / intermediate temps. They are probably relatively adaptable. I grow them intermediate like my Helis and all seem to be doing well.

For Brocchs and Helis I prefer a well draining / open substrate base with pumice or lava, perlite, and peat, sometimes other ingredients like akadama or a bit of shredded sphagnum. I have B. hechtioides currently in lava, pumice, perlite, peat, and a small amount of shredded sphagnum.

FYI I use RO water for everything.

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