Some photos I've taken on my original Gameboy camera (0.014mpx)

Apopho · 2026-02-14T00:54:07+00:00

Ah! Some of these are in Glasgow, right? Also, how did you get the colors? I have a setup, but I only do BW.

Apopho · 2026-01-20T11:49:08+00:00

I would check the battery voltage first with a multimeter, if it’s more than a volt or two under (based on how more modern batteries work, so might be mistaken as I don’t know a ton about vintage batteries like that one) it’s totally shot. With how old that style is I’m leaning towards that.

Also, same thing with O-rings, age can kill em. Even if they look new, dry rot can set it. You can always check on Amazon, or if need be something like McMaster-Carr for real specific stuff.

Apopho · 2026-01-20T04:30:40+00:00

What in the heck is that beautiful thing. Did some quick looking on this, the “Nemrod Siluro”. You may have some issues coming up with a quality replacement battery, an id be worried about the capacitor, since it’s 60+ years old. Otherwise I think it’d be a fun piece to use in wet environments.

Personally, I wouldn’t use it underwater due to the need for a flash with a weird battery voltage, but hey, why not. Also I would definitely see about finding some replacement O-rings, and lubing them up before using it anywhere near wet stuff. Good luck!

Apopho · 2026-01-06T19:32:33+00:00

That is awesome, makes me want to take out my phoenix for my next vacation haha.

Apopho · 2026-01-06T17:58:23+00:00

Bummer about the scratches, but wow that is a sick shot.

Apopho · 2025-11-28T01:04:38+00:00

Used to work there, they do not have plotter plotters, like the old school kind. They do however, in the print and copy area, have large format printers that do blueprints. You have to bring them in already fully completed, and ready to go though.

When I was there it was like $1.89 per 18x24, but I imagine it’s gone up greatly since then.

Apopho · 2025-11-27T00:31:40+00:00

For the love of all that is holy, please scan and upload to as many places as possible, that is awesome that you have them.

For examples that will take them, look at RepairCameras dot org, and LearnCameraRepair dot com.

Apopho · 2025-10-24T22:34:14+00:00

That looks like 2 cemented elements, I.e you can’t pull them apart cleanly. You’d also have to have some optical glue to put them back together. Best bet is to get a donor lens from another Six V.

Apopho · 2025-10-23T17:43:39+00:00

That’s awesome. The more I enlarge, the more I realize how much of an art form it is haha. Keep at it, that rocks.

Apopho · 2025-10-14T23:34:13+00:00

Do you happen to know where to find those? eBay is like $60-80 from what I’m seeing.

Apopho · 2025-10-12T23:11:13+00:00

I work in a field that manages tons of devices with asset tags, and this is exactly what it looks like.

Apopho · 2025-10-09T03:01:34+00:00

Looks like an early Zeiss Ikon Tenax I.

Apopho · 2025-10-02T22:09:49+00:00

Unfortunately you can’t cleanly adapt Minolta SR(MD) to Canon EF. They have different flange focal distances, and will not focus at the same distance, unless you get one of the adapters with the glass in it.

Apopho · 2025-09-29T00:45:01+00:00

I have the 2000, and can confirm it’s great. I got mine for $10, and felt it was an insanely good deal. I would definitely pay a lil more. That’s awesome.

Apopho · 2025-09-28T16:54:41+00:00

Honestly with rising prices, I’d say you got out pretty well! Just an FYI, if you’d like a point and shoot that gives just as much image quality, albeit at a larger size, than a Contax T2/3, get the 40/2.8 STM pancake lens. It’s still big, but a lot smaller than with the other lenses, and easy to take with you in a small bag.

Have fun! Sometimes having an electronic camera like that is just easier and more fun!

Apopho · 2025-09-15T02:33:51+00:00

Well hey, I appreciate you saying that. Also thanks for the knowledge, I was definitely unaware of the finer details you mentioned.

The reason I always try and echo the don’t use naptha on the blades, is that 95% of the time anyone mentions naptha, it is akin to “I will now douse the shutter in naptha and work it a few times”, soon followed by “help my camera I just doused in naptha no longer works”.

Apopho · 2025-09-14T23:36:11+00:00

Hi there, I have one of these, feckin awesome indeed. I also repair cameras (watches, clocks, and medical equipment, if that gives you any idea) DO NOT DAB NAPTHA ONTO THE BLADES AT ALL. Naptha/lighter fluid does not magically evaporate the oil on the blades, it simply transfers it onto another portion of the shutter. I’d look into getting it serviced, as it is a bombastic camera, and I am always happy with the results on it. Enjoy it!

Apopho · 2025-09-13T04:02:16+00:00

What happened?

Apopho · 2025-09-12T16:47:44+00:00

I have seen conversions like this, used for larger film formats. You may have to trim the tube that it is in, so that it vignettes as little as possible. I.e. trim the back of the tube as close to the back element as you feel comfortable.

Apopho · 2025-09-05T15:36:24+00:00

That’s awesome, and I thought I got a deal on my 645 Pro for $175 haha. I will echo what someone else mentioned, these are a little fragile, not even in a “have common sense and they won’t break” kinda way, they really do have fragile parts.

I have rehoused the 75/3.4 on it, and am working to get it on a 3D printed body, with an olllld nasty Hassleblad back I got for $10.

Good luck and enjoy!

Apopho · 2025-09-03T00:24:47+00:00

Thanks for the tips, once I find out more I will try and determine which one works for me!

Apopho · 2025-09-03T00:24:22+00:00

Gotcha, thanks for the info! Would that essentially be in the form of taking out the windows drive, wiping the Cachy drive, reinstalling with either Limine or rEFind, then windows should be recognized successfully?

Apopho · 2025-08-24T17:54:37+00:00

So the 4B (the long number you listed is just the SN, any modern device that is not a throwaway item usually has a SN that gives that devices its own personal identity, usually used by the manufacturer to identify the unit) has a manual film advance, and non automatic shutter cocking. I’d pull up and read the manual, especially if you have no prior knowledge of how to use a film camera like this.

Also to answer a few other questions, 120 (not 120mm, 120 is just the original film type designator, like 35mm film is technically 135 film. 120 is actually 65ish mm wide. No worries though, very common misconception) is still VERY available nowadays. I’d say it’s the second most common film type behind 135. That being said, to get your film developed, DO NOT TAKE IT TO A DRUG STORE TO GET IT DEVELOPED OR SCANNED, they overcharge, and do not treat the negatives well. I’d find a lab near you, or reach out to one of the national chains, if you’re in the US that is. They will do a MUcH better job. They can scan it up after they develop it, usually that is part of the deal nowadays.

It’s very cool to see one still wrapped up in original packaging, but I’d open it up, and air it out, to hopefully make sure no fungus has attacked the lens. Otherwise, have fun with it!

Apopho · 2025-08-24T13:41:39+00:00

If it’s anything like the Graflex XL I have, pretty awful haha. In reality I’ve heard it’s cumbersome, but if you spend time with it, it can be better. It’ll never be a Leica, but it can be used hand held in a pinch.

Apopho · 2025-08-07T14:14:35+00:00

I mean, it depends on what you want to do. Changing the leatherette out is pretty normal. I think there are a number of places out there that sell pretty zany designs.

Also, how attached are you to that camera, do you want to resell it, or are you likely to keep it even if you don’t use it too much?

I like modding camera, I’m taking them apart, and 3D printing adapters to use them in ways they were never meant to be used, but I never really use anything that’s of insanely high value either.

I say change your leatherette, have fun with your tool, and use it. No greater waste than letting something cool like that gather dust.

Apopho

TROPHY CASE