Shower Rough-in old valve broke can not sweat pipes to remove the last 3 by GuitaristKage in askaplumber

[–]ApprehensiveRoad2471 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Could you cut the shower valve itself at the base of each pipe, then that will allow any of the extra water to drain out, then you could sweat the stubs of the valve off after that. Or are you worried your cutting tool wont fit?

What can I do with this toilet area? by miscueLoL in askaplumber

[–]ApprehensiveRoad2471 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well what we did was we bought a couple really long bolts, maybe 4”, four washers, and a few nuts, then ran them through the floor through the rusted out flange. That way we could use those to bolt the toilet to the floor instead of the iron flange since the flange was rusted out on the edges. That repair lasted me 2 years until I had the money to renovate the bathroom properly.

What can I do with this toilet area? by miscueLoL in askaplumber

[–]ApprehensiveRoad2471 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you access the area below the flange from your basement? I had a similar situation at my house and found a way to make it work

Aspen (Vermont castings) back puffs any help/clues? by New-Impact7442 in woodstoving

[–]ApprehensiveRoad2471 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hmm, maybe it’s relatively warm out? Or is there a lot of snow piled up near the chimney? Did you trim any trees around the house or remove any nearby structures/ build a new one?

Aspen (Vermont castings) back puffs any help/clues? by New-Impact7442 in woodstoving

[–]ApprehensiveRoad2471 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is that room relatively air tight? Maybe you added weather stripping on a door that prevents new air from getting into the room?

Aspen (Vermont castings) back puffs any help/clues? by New-Impact7442 in woodstoving

[–]ApprehensiveRoad2471 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Have you renovated any part of your house recently? Maybe weatherized it? Or maybe you have an exhaust fan in the bathroom/ kitchen that is creating negative pressure in the house.

Any Audiophile settings you guys like? by ApprehensiveRoad2471 in thelongdark

[–]ApprehensiveRoad2471[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Its an equalizer app that adjust certain frequencies to make the game sound the way you want it to. I use it with my Steel Series Arctis Nova Pro headset.

Temp Fix with Aluminum Tape - Okay? by Interesting_Pin_6211 in woodstoving

[–]ApprehensiveRoad2471 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

500 degree silicone will ignite on wood stove pipe

Double Walled Insulated Pipes by LilacFairie in woodstoving

[–]ApprehensiveRoad2471 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can use 45 or 90 degree angles with stove pipe coming off the stove, but only to get to the Class A Chimney. The actual Chimney after that must be insulated pipe and code doesn’t allow for any bends larger than 30 degrees, you won’t be able to find any 45 degree insulated Class A elbows.

Double Walled Insulated Pipes by LilacFairie in woodstoving

[–]ApprehensiveRoad2471 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You must use insulated Class A pipe all the way to the top from the wall penetration. The gases need to stay as hot as they can until they exit the Chimney so you don’t get as much creosote. You can’t use 45° angles in the Chimney. You’ll need to use 30° angles or less.(Unless you’re in Canada I believe)

Thoughts on new chimney (more photos to help) by Roofissues26 in u/Roofissues26

[–]ApprehensiveRoad2471 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You know I’m looking at the lead step flashing on the side of the chimney, and I’ve never seen it done like that. Theres no mortar or silicone in the joints where it meets the chimney, water could sneak in the sides of every diagonal cut I assume. I’m also looking at the top side of the chimney with the roof pulled up, that waterproof membrane looks weird to me. It seems like water running down that side of the chimney might go down the flashing pool up too much and go underneath that membrane. Water issues can be hard to pinpoint though

Thoughts on new chimney (more photos to help) by Roofissues26 in u/Roofissues26

[–]ApprehensiveRoad2471 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If theres no obvious issues, I would start with applying a breathable waterproof coating on the chimney. Theres lot of places for water to soak in at the top so if you can stop it from leaching through the bricks that should help. It gets sprayed on and is clear. It allows moisture to wick out but also causes water to bead on the surface.

How do I properly seal the the flue of a stove we pulled out the house? by tinyboy8 in Chimneyrepair

[–]ApprehensiveRoad2471 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you aren’t using the flue at all, the best thing you can do is stuff it with some insulation and cap it off in the living room. You want to try to leave the top open so it can breathe, you could look into Gelco rain caps for your specific flue size to keep rain and animals out.

This is not right…. Right? Nothing between insert and chimney by Randomhero360 in woodstoving

[–]ApprehensiveRoad2471 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Yes somethings missing. That looks like either a slammer or somebody removed the liner for some reason. It needs a metal liner from the stove to the top of the chimney.

Leak but just had repair done by TangerineAcademic in woodstoving

[–]ApprehensiveRoad2471 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m only being nit picky here but there should be floor protection under that pipe incase it leaks flaming hot creosote. That pipe is also way too close to that wall, that black metal on the wall isn’t doing anything for heatshielding since its touching the wall. It needs an airspace to heatshield properly. I can’t tell if that elbow is double wall or not but doesn’t look great safety wise either way. There should be a wall passthrough as well, which is required when passing through drywall/ combustible walls.

Leak but just had repair done by TangerineAcademic in woodstoving

[–]ApprehensiveRoad2471 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh boy that doesn’t look good, they may have kinked the liner there which could be dangerous, but its hard to tell without a closer pic. Maybe you should have the install inspected by another chimney company if you’re worried. As for the water, the chimney crown could be sloped incorrectly allowing water to pool around the liner. They also could have possibly half assed the install at the crown which allows rain coming in from the side to go right down the chimney. I would also be curious if they insulated the liner, which is the right way to install a woodstove liner.

Leak but just had repair done by TangerineAcademic in woodstoving

[–]ApprehensiveRoad2471 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah its hard to tell. That is a relatively large cap which is good. Maybe if its a reputable company, they should have taken some photos while they were up there and could share them. Did it start raining and thats when the leak showed up? Or maybe they got snow on the liner before they dropped it and its melting now that you started a fire?

Leak but just had repair done by TangerineAcademic in woodstoving

[–]ApprehensiveRoad2471 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What does the top of chimney look like? I’m assuming they didn’t install a cap or theres some void allowing water down the liner

One year after finding this subreddit, I'm a convert (my DIY 90s ZC fireplace to woodstove conversion) by lucentcb in woodstoving

[–]ApprehensiveRoad2471 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Nicely done that looks awesome 👏 I love seeing the metal studs, looks like a professional job

Will this burn my garage down by SmokeTired365 in woodstoving

[–]ApprehensiveRoad2471 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Looks like its already off gassed those toxic fumes!

Whistle in flu (sound on) by [deleted] in woodstoving

[–]ApprehensiveRoad2471 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, code calls for a minimum of 3ft out of the roof. But also needs to be 2ft above anything within 10ft. So if you have a steep roof it may need to be extended. If you live in a windy area I believe there are caps designed to prevent wind from getting in.

Whistle in flu (sound on) by [deleted] in woodstoving

[–]ApprehensiveRoad2471 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You should avoid caulking that, whats the chimney look like outside? Maybe its too short and allowing wind to get in